THE FIVE FISHERMEN RESTAURANT & GRILL
Located in the heart of downtown Halifax, this legendary restaurant is famous for seafood delivered straight from the boat, a prime location, and its ghosts. Or at least that’s the rumor. Employees claim to have felt inexplicable taps on their shoulders, walk- ing through pockets of cold air on warm summer nights, or seeing faucets turn on without human assistance.
Built in 1817 as a school, this humble wooden structure eventually was convert- ed to a funeral home—just in time to accommodate victims of the Titanic sinking back in 1912. Over the years, the building served several other functions, until 1975 when it was renovated as a multi-level fine dining restaurant. The food is undeniably good, and a staple of Halifax’s culinary landscape. Perhaps that’s why the spirit world lingers?
Having twice dined here, I bore no wit- ness to apparitions or otherwise mysterious happenings, but I have felt the entirely welcoming presence of some of the nicest servers ever. Also alluring is the $1 oyster happy hour (4:30 to 6:30 P.M.) and a great selection of seafood-friendly Nova Scotian wines, including L’Acadie Blanc, a delightfully crisp white that’s unique to the local terroir.
At the Five Fisherman, you’ll have your chance to sample lobster and chowder often ranked among the best in Canada. Choose from the classic, tomato-based Manhattan clam chowder or the perfectly balanced cream-based lobster and corn chowder (both $10). The BBQ Pristine Bay oysters are divine in their tiny pocket of red worldeats ale, gouda, and smoked pork belly ($19), but are perhaps outdone by the steamed mussels steeped in either herb and tomato, garlic cream, or green curry and coconut ($12, with complimentary refills).
Still more of Halifax’s freshest is found in the lobster-stuffed seared Digby scallops, served with parsnip purée and braised leek with tarragon cream ($28). The “five fish” is the house special, where $35 gets you “colossal” shrimp and scallops, halibut and salmon, plus heavenly lobster and asparagus white-wine risotto with a side of vanilla-braised fennel. Vegetarians can enjoy a buttercup-squash risotto with white-truffle oil ($24), while meat lovers may be seduced by the pistachio-crusted lamb chop ($34).
The history of its locale may lend to a romantic air, but it’s the food, not the ghostly tales, that make the Five Fishermen a true local’s haunt. 1740 Argyle St. Tel: 902-422-4421. www.fivefishermen.com
Five Fishermen
2 DOORS DOWN
When Nova Scotians want a little break from typical seafood dishes or a departure from fish altogether, they head here. Serving lunch and dinner seven days a week, 2 Doors Down calls itself “your neighborhood restaurant in the heart of downtown Halifax.” That it is. The laid-back vibe begins at the threshold, with the smiling faces that welcome you like a regular, even amid a touristy pocket of town.
The menu spruces up staples with variations Chef and Owner Craig Flinn himself loves to eat. Unlike Flinn’s other renowned but more formal restaurant, Chives Canadian Bistro, 2 Doors Down filters the best of the region and season into a pleasing menu for all palates—all in an unpretentious package that’s filling, affordable, and memorable.
For those of us who love poutine, no visits complete without sampling the decadent short-rib poutine with red cabbage and fennel slaw ($11). The hearty bangers ‘n mac mixes and bakes the signature house mac ‘n cheese with seasonal veggies, caramelized onion gravy, and locally made sausages ($17). Hot crab, lobster, and spinach dip redefines the lusciousness of goat cheese ($12), while the soba scallop dish varies the often-simple crustacean by serving it as a soba-noodle bowl with local tofu, Asian greens, and dashi broth ($19).
Vegetarians take note: with so much surf and turf dominating Halifaxian menus, here you’ll find a full column of dishes just for you. Among them is the award-winning crispy greens mac and cheese of gouda and blue cheese blended with broccoli, Brussels sprouts, and kale ($18). The Indian standard aloo gobi also will appease a cauliflower-curry craving, and comes with red-lentil basmati pilaf and fresh raita ($17).
Craft beers and ciders top the drink menu, and perfectly accompany an impressive roster of bourbons, ryes, and rums. Try one of the $9 cocktails that incorporate nearby Lunenberg’s Ironworks Distillery spirits in tangy-fresh liquid medleys. 1533 Barrington St. Tel: 902-422-4224. www.go2doorsdown.com
MORRIS EAST
And now for something different: a wood-fired pizza restaurant and wine and cocktail bar with a deliciously easygoing approach. When it opened in 2007, Morris East instantly became a fast, satisfying dining option near the waterfront’s south end. Today, the place is a downtown staple where fresh, reliable food, and warm service fills its seats for lunch and dinner.
Hungry diners flock here for the city’s most recommended pizza, built on regular wheat or gluten-free thin crust that nails the basics, then gets scrumptiously creative. Forget regular mushroom, try the portobello-, button-, and forest-mushroom pizza with truffle oil and micro-greens or a tangy-sweet pie with pear, blue cheese, shallots, prosciutto, and maple-rosemary aioli. The enchilada pizza, with black-bean tomato sauce, roasted red peppers, apple-wood cheddar, Sriacha sour cream, and pico de gallo, gives even non-pizza-lovers a pie to ponder (each $16).
The menu here also has plenty of beguiling choices beyond the crispy, flavorful pizza. Lunch focuses on well-prepared salads that mix in uncommon, standout additions like shaved root veggies, spiced pepitas, or lemon confit. Specialty soups and a wood-fired seafood chowder with salmon, scallops, mussels, and haddock zest up familiar favorites. That goes double for the dinner menu’s “skillet poutine,” with its potato wedges, mush- room gravy, bocconcini, and sour cream.
The daily lunch (served until 3 P.M.) is terrifically affordable à la cart; or through the $13 pizza and soup-or-salad special—add a dessert and wine or house cocktail to it for $20 total. The wine menu is decent here, but if you find it falling short of perfection consider bringing your own delightful Nova Scotian vintage (corkage is $15). And while you’re planning ahead, leave room for the salted caramel tart ($8), which some patrons find reason enough to make themselves a Morris East regular. 5112 Morris St. Tel: 902-444-7663. www.morriseast.com
