Explore the magic of Northern Ireland as we discover its vibrant cities, picturesque landscapes, and warm hospitality.
Recently, when doing a family tree DNA test on my fatherโs side, no one was more surprised than myself when the tests came back revealing that he was 100% Irish.ย I immediately had thoughts of traveling back to Ireland and searching for relatives and towns we may have lived in.
Simultaneously, and just as surprising, was my editor contacting me and asking if Iโd like to represent PASSPORT magazine on a press trip to Dublin, Belfast, and the northern coast of Ireland. Hosted by Tourism Ireland, Fรกilte Ireland (Tourism of the Republic of Ireland) and Tourism Northern Ireland, I jumped at the chance and before I knew it I was on a direct flight to Dublin.
We, (myself and three other travel journalists from the USA plus our overall host, Jenna Chapman from Tourism Ireland) were treated to an amazing several days of wining, dining, entertainment, and culture. In the past I have reported on Dublin and the Republic of Ireland, but in regards to Northern Ireland this would be my first trip there and I wanted to share the incredible journey we had.
As we headed north on our first day out of Dublin we stopped at The Game of Thrones Studio Tour located in the Linen Mill Studios. The building was originally constructed for the linenย trade, but with the linen industry in decline it was fortuitous that in 2011 HBO approached them with the idea of building an all-encompassing film studio. Many indoor sets were created and scenes shot here like The Great Hall in Winterfell and Castle Black. In fact, the studio tour was built around these sets. The Studio tour is fascinating, immersive, interactive, educational, and beautiful to walk through. The actual sets used for the TV series like the Red Keep and Castle Black are recreated and thereโs even an archery video game where you, the visitor, try to aim and destroy the zombie like creatures, the White Walkers in Winterfell. There are rooms dedicated to production design, costume design and props, and thereโs the opportunity to try on costumes from the show and have your photo taken sitting on the Iron Throne. And of course, thereโs an extensive gift shop and cafรฉ.
Linen Mills Studio also housed the actorโs dressing rooms, costume and make-up departments, and catering. This was a boon to the local economy and work for crafts people all over Northern Ireland. In fact, our tour guide was an extra in the TV series, as were many more of the town folk.
After our visit to the Studio we stopped off at Steensons Jewelers, the exclusive creators of the pendants, pins, and jewelry for the Game of Thrones show. We saw the Kings Hand which is a pin given to second in command. We also saw the crown worn by Sansa Stark at her coronation. The shop is full of brilliant jewelry and everything is made on site, painstakingly created by hand. We had the privilege of watching three craftspeople working on pieces while we visited.
Not far from Steensons is Dark Hedges, a stunning road embraced by ancient beech trees lining both sides and bending towards each other as if to protect whomever travels through and beneath her. This spot was used as a location shoot in the show.
Later that day, we headed to Hillsborough Castle, Northern Irelandโs Royal Residence. Although itโs referred to as a castle itโs more of a manor house, due to its size. We lucked out because we were given a tour by James. His knowledge was almost overwhelming. We knew that we were going to discover the centuries old history of the Castle and its occupants and their strong connection with the LGBTQ+ community, but what he shared was extremely fascinating.
The Hills family purchased the land that the castle sits on back in1603. An ambitious family, the Hills became more powerful both socially and politically. In particular, Wills Hill in 1768-72 became the Secretary of State for the Colonies. He built the Hillsborough Castle and in 1771 he even hosted a visit by Benjamin Franklin.
Jumping to today, the Hillsborough Castle is where King Charles II stays when he visits, as does the current Secretary for State, Hilary Benn. We entered into the front room and almost every wall space was covered in portraits of royalty and high society, those whom have visited the castle and some who are just historical portraits. James began his history tour reminding us that it was Henry VIII in 1533 who created the Buggery Act, the first to condemn gay people…punishment by hanging.
Ruins of Medieval Dunluce Castle on the
Northern Coast of County Antrim (Photo by Nahlik)
Ironically, King James I was openly gay in the late 1500s. In fact, the recent mini-series Mary and George is about James I and how Mary Villiers pushed her handsome son George to seduce the King to help them move ahead in society.
In the late 1600s, William III would have his boys wear dresses till age 10, and two of Williamโs male lovers were Hans Willem Bentinck who became Earl of Portland, and Arnold Joost van Keppel who was named Earl of Albemarle by the king. Upon William IIIโs death in 1702 he bequeathed to Albermale millions of Florin (Dutch currency).
In a stunning portrait of Mary of Modena, second wife of William IIIsย father-in-law James II, sheโs portrayed cross dressing. Sheโs wearing male riding gear, is sporting a manโs hair style and is very masculine looking. Across the hallway is the throne room where royalty receives guests, and just beyond is a beautiful drawing room painted a warm butter yellow with comfy sofas, Persian rugs, and a grand piano.
Outside, the castle is surrounded by one hundred acres of gardens of every type. There are walled gardens, wild gardens, the moss walk, and a Yew Tree walk. There are lakes and birdwatching trails, and seasonally they host everything from Easter egg hunts to glittering Christmas decorations and holiday events.
By dinnertime we were all famished, but all we had to do was walk down the hill from the castle and in one half a block and we were at our destination, The Parsonโs Nose. Yes, the name of the establishment is a take-off on the Popeโs nose. It represents the tail end of a fowlโs spine, where the feathers then stick up and out, suggesting that someone had their nose up in the air. More politically, the phrase stems from anti- Catholic feelings after the reign of James II (1685-88). Physically itโs known as the uropygium or the preen glands. Personally, I think itโs one of the tastiest parts of a chicken or a turkey.
The pub and restaurant were cozy yet vast with different levels to drink and dine in as well as an outdoor beer garden. This being an authentic Northern Irish pub, I felt I had to go classic. For a starter I had the smoked haddock and bacon chowder with, parsley, spring onion, stout and treacle wheaten. It was delicious. The chunks of fresh haddock coupled with the bacon and spring onion, made for a great flavor combination. And Iโm a New England guy, so praising this chowder was giving the chef huge respect. It was so filling and satisfying I could have had it as a main, but I had ordered the local classic, fish & chips (battered cod, mushy peas, hand cut chips, and tartar sauce). The fish was crunchy on the outside, soft and delicious on the inside and served with homemade sweet and tangy tartar sauce as well as plenty of vinegar to douse the chips with. Heaven.
With our stomachโs full we were off to Belfast to visit the Titanic Museum. When you ask most people where they think the Titanic was built, most reply, Liverpool or Southampton, England. One person I asked even thought it was Cork, Ireland. But no, the infamous ship was conceived, designed, built and launched from Belfast. From there it traveled to Southampton to pick up its first set of passengers for the voyage. The Titanic Museum is massive. From the outside you see angles of the bow, three hundred and sixty degrees around. Inside itโs just as impressive. Youโre welcome to journey on a self-guided tour of the history of who designed the ship, how they built it, who sailed on it, and much more.
Titanic Museum by Nataliya Hora
With amazing attractions that include Giantโs Causeway, the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, and the Titanic Belfast museum, Northern Ireland beckons travelers with once in a lifetime experiences.
Itโs enormous and I think the most challenging aspect of the experience, is how do you keep it entertaining and fun while staying personal and relatable while acknowledging the immense tragedy that was to follow? And they accomplish the feat amazingly. There are artifacts like a violin and a life jacket that were rescued, thereโs a replica of a first class stateroom, and at one point there is three story โmemory wallโ honoring the people who perished in the sinking. Single and coupled peopleโs images appear through a reddish mist with their information, and then they fade into the fog and someone else appears. It was extremely moving. Give yourself at least an hour and a half, the museum is that large andย interesting. And of course, they have a gift shop and cafรฉ, too.
Our home base for the next two nights was the room2 Belfast hometel. The weather was a bit gloomy and wet, but this was probably one of the brightest and most cheerful hotels Iโve everย stayed in. Itโs fun and playful with its design and is referred to as a hometel because itโs a cross between a hotel, serviced apartments, and Airbnbs. Straight ahead upon entering the hometel is the bar and to the left is a large common area that felt more like a living room. Beyond that was their restaurant, Winnieโs, which was packed with women wearing cowboy hats. A bachelorette party? No, Shania Twain was giving a concert that night.
Robert Godwin, CEO of Lamington Group that owns/runs hometels across the UK wanted to share their commitment to sustainability. โAll of our room2 hometel locations operate on low carbon, low energy and zero waste operations, and we also work closely with local suppliers and businesses to support surrounding communities.โ
When entering my room there was a kitchenette with a cook top, sink, and refrigerator. The cupboards were stocked with pots, pans, cutlery and most importantly, a corkscrew. The room had a kitchen table you could eat or work, at and then there was my king size bed. Dreamy.
After a quick shower and a change of clothes it was time for cocktails at the stunning Observatory Lounge atop the Grand Central Belfast hotel. When the doors opened on the 23rd floor we were greeted by Patrice Lavery, Business Development Manager of the Hastings Hotels Group. A perfectly situated lounge table and chairs were set up for us that offered incredible views of the city of Belfast. Before we knew it, specialty drinks arrived made of local gin called Jawbox and served with Norcellara olives from Sicily. The drinks were thirst quenching, the appetizers delicious, the experience unforgettable.
The Famous Herring Sculpture on the Docklands of Belfast
Patrice went on to share with us that the hotel is made up of 300 luxury bedrooms and visitors of note have been President Biden and President Clinton. Patrice was obviously very proud of her job and was thrilled to meet us. Her enthusiasm was irresistible.
After a drink or two, we left our comfy lounge in the sky and made our way to Cafe Parisien that was located in the famous Cleaver house. The six story structure was built in 1886 as the Royal Irish Linen Warehouse. In latter years is was a department store, and now separate businesses have taken up residence, including the Cafรฉ Parisien. Offering classic French fare, we were seated in a large circular table built into the buildingโs corner turret on the second floor.
Joining us for dinner was Aaron Eakin, manager of the Maverick nightclub, one of Belfastโs most successful gay bars. While ordering drinks and munching on a bread board ordered for the table which was packed with olives, olive oil, balsamic vinegar, whipped butter and Camembert, I asked Aaron how the Maverick evolved. โMark Hassan and I opened the Maverick back in November 2013. We felt Belfast was lacking an LGBTQ+ venue that was differentโmore radical, bold and daring, hence the name.โ
When it was time to order I went classic Parisian with seared scallops, parma ham, fennel, watercress, and herb oil for a starter. The scallops tasted like little savory pillow flavor bombs. For a main it was steak frites, a 10oz sirloin steak with watercress and shallot with skin on fries. Served perfectly medium rare with a divine pepper sauce, I felt transported to Paris!
After dinner, Aaron invited us to the Maverick and on the way I asked whether Belfast in general was gay-friendly. โAbsolutely, yes!โ Aaron exclaimed. โUnfortunately, Belfast and Northern Ireland has gained a bad reputation as not being LGBTQ+ friendly over the years, thanks largely to our politicians. The reality is that the majority of people in Belfast are decent, kind, and hospitable people, which Iโm certain you witnessed on your visit here. Thereโs always room for improvement, but Iโm incredibly proud to say Iโm from Belfast.โ
Blu Hydrangea (Photo by Aaron Eakin)
Before we knew it, we were walking into the Maverick. It was bright and colorful with an eclectic design sense and lots of sparkly things and animal prints. As we ordered our drinks, we noticed there was a stage at the end of the bar and out popped Onya Becks and Xxxpresso Martini to host Open Drag Stage. Both drag queens did their โnumbersโ to rousing applause.
Above the Maverick, and owned by the same management is the drag bar, the Boom Box. Next door is The Reporter, a little nook of a bar locat- ed in the old Belfast Telegraph building that proudly serves local beers and spirits. Itโs a bit quieter than the other bars, and a great place for a first date. Before we left the Maverick, Joshua Cargill appeared at our table and Aaron introduced him to us. Joshua is aka Blu Hydrangea when in drag, and in 2022 he won the first series of RuPaulโs Drag Race: UK vs. the World. Aaron also happens to be Joshuaโs manager.
Suddenly Onya appeared on stage again and started encouraging patrons to come up and either sing live or lip synch. Everyone at my table was pushing me to do it and the scary thing is, I was considering it. So, I looked at my watch knowing we had an 8 A.M. call to travel along the Northern coast, so I chose sleep over making a fool of myself.
The next morning we headed to the Coastal Route that winds along the most northern edge of Ireland. The world up there is unbelievably beautiful. Emerald green pastures, impressive ancient castles and breathtaking cliffs all looking out towards an aqua marine blue ocean populated with dolphins, grey seals, and puffins.
Giants Causeway (Photo by Nahlik)
Along the way, we made a stop at the magnificent Giantโs Causeway. Legend says that the Causeway was created by an angry giant trying to cross the sea to Scotland, but the scientific explanation is that 60 million years ago, molten lava spilled from a volcanic fissure and then was cooled by ocean water creating over 40,000 hexagonal basalt stones. Mother Nature at her most brilliant. You can walk down to the causeway and back up to the main entrance, or for one Euro they offer a bus.
We also visited Carrick-a-rede located in Ballintoy. Itโs famous for its rope bridge and breathtaking views. In 1755, salmon fishermen erected the rope bridge which links the mainland to the tiny island of Carrick-a-rede. Here they set up salmon nets and then would carry wooden boxes filled with their catch back over the rickety, swinging bridge 100 feet above the crashing Atlantic holding on with just one hand. Today you can cross the bridge thatโs about 66 feet long. I dis- covered I truly do not have a fear of heights. I was a bit concerned about the wind, but, I made it, as did my colleagues. It was definitely the most exciting part of the entire trip.
The Author Crossing the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge (Photo by Arthur Wooten)
Lunch that afternoon was at the Fullerton Arms in the village of Ballintoy. Upon entering my first thoughts were, this looks a little rough around the edges. We were all seated at a large table and once our wait- ress realized we had senses of humor, she was onboard. I took a risk and ordered the Seafood Linguini. Well, I was surprised. Made with local mussels, shrimp and cherry tomatoes, and sautรฉed in a rich buttery, gar- lic, and lemon sauce, this dish was fantastic. It was served with a slice of crusty garlic bread to sop up every last bit of liquid gold pooling on the bottom of the dish. Iโll never judge a pub at first sight ever again.
Later that day, back in Belfast, we were invited to a very unique theatre performance titled, Quartered Belfast, A Love Story written by Dominic Montague and produced by Kabosh Theatre under the guidance of artistic director Paula McFetridge. Itโs a gay love story between Dominic, the men in his life, and the city of Belfast.
At the beginning of the performance, we all met up in the Cathedral Quarter on Umbrella Street. Quarters refer to cultural zones, like neighborhoods. Dominic, with his hands full of headsets, appeared and handed each one of us a set. Once we all were coordinated, we followed Dominic as he guided us from street to street and performed his monologue.
I found the walking theatrical experience fascinating in that I learned so much about Belfast while simultaneously enjoying Dominicโs writing, which was a brutally honest sharing of his emotions and experiences and how they related to each neighborhood we ventured through.
I asked him what inspired him to write this very unique play. โI wanted to express the internal monologue that so many queer people experience when navigating public spaces, that inner voice that asks โcan you be yourself in this place, how much of yourself can you make visible, who has the power to make the rules?โ We all know that constant negotiation between identity and geography, itโs in our bones because weโve had no choice but to learn it, but it is usually invisible and unheard. [This] invites an audience to walk in someoneโs footsteps as they navigate the intersection of queerness and the city.โ
When the theatre experience was over we all went out for a pint of Guinness, and I shared with Dominic that I totally related to the story, big time! Even though Iโm from NYC, I felt as though he was often describing my thoughts and emotions, relationships, and break-ups, and how it all relates to my city.
What a great way to end this fabulous visit to Northern Ireland. I need to do some more digging into my Irish ancestry and discover exactly where we are from and then return and explore the villages and meet the relatives that I can find.
Haddock and Bacon Chowder (Photo by Martin Turzak)
Northern Ireland Resources
EXPERIENCES AND MUSEUMS
Carrick-a-rede: 200 years ago, fisherman con- structed a rope bridge from the mainland to the island of Carrick-a-rede and today you can cross that same bridge, if you dare to. The views of the Atlantic and the cliffs you have to carefully walk down are as miraculous as the bridge. Rope Bridge 119a Whitepark Road, Ballintoy, County Antrim. Tel. +44-28-2073-1855. nationaltrust. org.uk/visit/northern-ireland/carrick-a-rede
Giantโs Causeway: This is the world-renowned extraordinary creation of nature and Northern Ireland’s only UNESCO World Heritage Site. You can explore on your own or book a visit with a tour guide. 44 Causeway Road, Bushmills, Co Antrim. Tel. +44-28-2073-1855. nationaltrust.org.uk/giantscauseway
Dark Hedges: Bregagh Rd, Stranocum, Ballymoney. Breathtakingly beautiful road with giant beech trees lining both sides. Location was used in Game of Thrones.
Game of Thrones Studio Tour: A well though-out museum/tour/interactive experience. Whether youโre a fan of Game of Thrones or not, youโll still be delightfully entertained. 5 Ballievey Road, Banbridge. Tel. +44-28-4046-4777. gameofthronesstudiotour.com
Hillsborough Castle: The Royal Residence of Northern Ireland, still in use today. Wonderful cafรฉ and over 100 acres of gardens, lakes and wildlife. The Square, Hillsborough. Tel. +44-333-320- 6000. www.hrp.org.uk/hillsborough-castle
Quartered Belfast, A Love Storyย An audio theatrical walking tour written by Dominic Montague and produced by Kabosh Theatre under the guidance of artistic director Paula McFetridge. Kabosh, 72 High Street, Belfast. Tel. +44-28-9024-334. kabosh.net
Steensons Jewelry: It is amazing to watch the crafts people designing and creating jewelry from scratch. Great for souvenirs or gifts. Seav- iew Hall, New Rd, Glenarm. Tel. +44-28-2884- 1445. thesteensons.com
Titanic Belfast: Recently refurbished, this is the quintessential museum about the Titanic located on the exact grounds where the ship was creat- ed. 1 Olympic Way, Queenโs Road, Belfast. Tel.ย +44-28-9076-6386. titanicbelfast.com
RESTAURANTS
Cafรฉ Parisienย A beautiful French restaurant in the heart of Belfast with a varied menu and extensive offering of wine and spirits. Cleaver House,ย Donegall Square North, Belfast. Tel. +44-28- 9590-4338. cafeparisienbelfast.com
The Fullerton Armsย The seafood linguini I had here was the best dish I enjoyed in Northern Ireland. 22-24 Main Street, Ballintoy, County Antrim. Tel.ย +44-28-20769-613. fullertonarms.com
Observatory Loungeย Up on the 23rd floor of this glamorous hotel youโll discover their jewel, the Observatory Lounge. They offer delicious drinks coupled with elegant taste treats all while you are gazing out over the incredible city of Belfast. Grand Central Hotel 9-15 Bedford Street, Belfast. Tel. +44-28-9023-1066. grandcentralhotelbelfast.com
The Pantryย Fashioned after what was served on the Titanic, The Pantry is open for breakfast, lunch and early dinner. They also have a childrenโs menu plus beer and wine for adults. Olympic Way, Queenโs Road, Belfast. Tel. +44-28-9076- 6386. titanicbelfast.com
The Parsonโs Noseย An authentic Northern Irish Pub just around the corner from Hillsborough Castle. Their fish chowder alone is worth the visit. 48 Lisburn Street, Royal Hillsborough. Tel. +44-28-9268- 3009. ballooinns.com/the-parsons-nose
HOTELS
Grand Central Hotelย The place to stay if you want elegance and glamour without being stuffy. 9-15 Bedford Street, Belfast. Tel. +44-28-9023-1066. grandcentralhotelbelfast.com
Europa Hotelย A sister hotel to the Grand Central, the Europa is also a stylish choice. This 272 room hotel with 93 executive bedrooms and suites offers a delicious bistro and an acclaimed piano bar lounge. Great Victoria Street, Belfast. Tel. +44-28-9027-1066. europahotelbelfast.com
room2 Belfast hometelย Bright and playful, room2 is on a mission to become as sustainable as possible, and they are well on their way. Within walking distance of a plethora of shops, restaurants and bars. 32-36 Queen Street, Belfast. Tel. +44-28-9018-4198. room2.com/belfast
BARS
The Boom Boxย Located right above the Maverick, the Boom Box offers fun drag shows. 108 Donegall St, Belfast. Tel. +44-28-9094- 2049. facebook.com/boomboxbelfast
The Maverickย The Maverick really brightens up the gay quarter and is working on building a rooftop bar. Drag shows and food too – they offer several different types of charcuterie boards.ย 1 Union Street, Belfast. Tel. +44-28-9094-2049. facebook.com/themaverickbelfast
The Reporterย Located right next door to the Maverick, The Reporter is quieter and designed with vintage writing memorabilia on the walls. Offering craft beers and local spirits. Itโs also dog friendly. 1 Union Street, Belfast. Tel. 34-938- 110-285. thereporterbelfast.com
