If I ever had any doubts that Taiwan was the most LGBTQ+- friendly country in Asia, all it took was one visit during the annual pride event to convince me.
Taiwan Pride is a vibrant international expression of LGBTQ+ solidarity and one of the most entertaining pride events I’ve ever experienced. More than 175,000 people attended the 2023 edition in the capital city of Taipei, and even more are expected this year. With its large parade, colorful festival, live entertainment, and countless parties and gatherings, Taiwan Pride truly is a meeting place for the community from around Taiwan, as well as around Asia and the rest of the world.
The pride parade, in fact, is billed as Asia’s largest. And that’s not the only reason Taiwan should be proud; in 2019, this self-governing island made history as the first destination in Asia to legalize same-sex marriage, followed by the 2023 legalization of full joint adoption rights for same-sex couples.
“From my perspective, there has always been a level of acceptance in Taiwan of LGBTQ people,” said Sam Hsu, who was born in Taipei, met his husband Bob in the Philippines, and moved to the U.S. with him in 2001. He moved back to Taipei in 2022 with his husband. “Taiwanese people have always acknowledged and been accepting of others’ differences.”
The recent legislation has made things even better according to Hsu. “Enshrining equal rights for LGBTQ people into law helped solidified the realization in the community that LGBTQ people exist, and that they are entitled to the same protections and legal avenues that all people are entitled to,” he said. “By doing this, some LGBTQ people who might otherwise have felt marginalized have now become emboldened and proud of who they are, and no longer have to fear being ostracized by the community. It always puts a smile on my face when I see same- sex couples walking down the street holding hands. It demonstrates the level of belonging and acceptance that people in this country have for the LGBTQ community.”
Brian Cragun, the English-language spokesperson for the Taiwan Rainbow Civil Action Association, which is the organizing body for Taiwan Pride, thinks that Taiwan’s accepting attitude comes from in part from its longstanding familiarity with diversity. “Taiwan has a history of being colonized by a large number of different countries, including the Spanish, the Dutch, and the Chinese. At the same time, from the start, with the indigenous tribes in Taiwan, it’s always been very diverse here,” he explained. “So it’s always been a melting pot, and I think that’s made Taiwan more accepting of people who are different. I feel like that’s a big part of it, as well as Taiwan being a democratic nation.
Cragun, who is from the United States but has lived in Taiwan for more than 14 years, has been impressed with the progress since his arrival. “Taiwan is a place where you can walk hand in hand with your partner regardless of gender, which is something you can’t do in most nations in Asia.”
Indeed, Taiwan has a fascinating history and a decidedly welcoming attitude when it comes to queer travelers, and nowhere is that more apparent than in the capital city of Taipei. With a population of more than 2.6 million, Taipei is a hub for politics, culture, business, art, and LGBTQ+ life.
My husband’s and I purposely timed our first-ever trip to Taipei to coincide with Taiwan Pride, which is scheduled for October 24-27, 2024). Our visit never failed to fascinate and entertain us.
GETTING TO TAIPEI
Taiwan, which is also known as the Republic of China, is an island in the western Pacific Ocean, only about 100 miles from the coast of mainland China. Taipei is the main gateway for international visitors, and it’s well connected by nonstop flights to North America, Europe, and other parts of the Asia Pacific region. We flew China Airlines non- stop from New York’s JFK airport at the beginning of our journey and returned home on Korean Air, which required connecting in Seoul. Even with the long flights required to reach Taipei (it’s about 16 hours nonstop from New York City, for example), we found it more than worth the time we spent in the air.
Our arrival in Taipei was a stress-free and smooth experience. It’s possible to take a taxi or bus from Taoyuan International Airport (the city’s largest international airport) into the city, but we opted to hop aboard the Airport MRT, an efficient and comfortable rail link that runs to Taipei Main Station (the largest rail hub) and costs about $4. That ride also provided an excellent introduction to Taipei Mass Rapid Transit (also called the MRT or Metro), the city’s modern and well-designed transportation system, which we used a lot throughout our visit.
Celebrating Pride in Taipei (Photo by Mark Chesnut @departure_level)
Taiwan Pride is, indeed, a magnet for the international LGBTQ+ community. During the course of our visit, I met people from Germany, Scotland, the USA, Thailand, India, Malaysia, South Korea, and mainland China, to name a few.
Since we visited Taiwan during Taiwan Pride, we were treated to an especially in-depth introduction to the city’s LGBTQ+ scene, starting with a fabulous queer city tour aboard a double-decker bus. It’s only offered during pride week when special LGBTQ+ city tours are organized by the city government and queer organizations. For tickets visit taiwanpride.lgbt.
Our guide was a witty and knowledgeable drag queen named Ellery, who hails from Madison, Wisconsin but has lived in Taiwan for 12 years. During the tour, I met a variety of fellow LGBTQ+ travelers who represent the diversity of people who are attracted to Taipei, especially for pride. I met a Korean gay guy who said that, while Seoul has a pride event, Taipei is “the best place to be” in Asia for this type of celebration. I spoke with a guy from Hong Kong who said that China’s new security measures have driven his city’s pride celebrations into more private settings. And I met a lesbian from India who said Taiwan is just as modern but much more affordable than Japan and South Korea. For LGBTQ+-friendly city tours throughout the year check out companies like Edison Tours and MyTaiwanTour.
Taiwan Pride is, indeed, a magnet for the international LGBTQ+ community. During the course of our visit, I met people from Germany, Scotland, the USA, Thailand, India, Malaysia, South Korea, and main- land China, to name a few, and saw pride marchers flying the flags of even more countries.
Regardless of the time of year that you visit Taipei, you’ll find lots to explore. This bustling city, which offers a unique blend of ancient traditions and 21st-century cool, is a year-round destination for LGBTQ+ travelers.
TOP ATTRACTIONS
Compared to many capital cities, Taipei is a relatively young metropolis. The region was originally inhabited by several indigenous tribes. As the city grew, it was named a provincial capital after Taiwan became a province of China in 1875. The city remained a capital after Japan acquired Taiwan in 1895 as a result of the peace agreement after the first Sino-Japanese War.
National Palace Museum (Photo by Mark Chesnut @departure_level)
There are several sites where you can engage with the city’s history. The massive Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall, which is dedicated to the memory of the man who led the Republic of China until his death in 1975, provides a fascinating glimpse of an important period in Taiwan’s history, with scores of documents, photographs, furnishings, and even two of his Cadillacs on exhibit. Going back even further, the beautiful Lungshan Temple dates to the 1700s and is one of several religious sites that offer insights into the city’s traditions.
The National Palace Museum is widely considered to be one of the top must-see attractions in Taipei. It’s home to one of the world’s largest collections of Chinese art, and you could spend hours wandering its exhibit halls. For a sky-high overview of the sprawling city, we headed to Taipei 101 a 1,667-foot skyscraper that was the world’s tallest building when it opened in 2004. Its observation decks offer inspiring views of the region.
Night markets are another big draw in Taipei, thanks to the legendary street food that has made this city a true foodie paradise. Fish balls, oyster omelets, braised minced pork, and the evocatively named stinky tofu are among the gustatory treasures that you can sample while strolling the rows of vendors.
The Shillin night market is one of the top choices, and the neighbor-hood is also home to the lovely, 18th-century Cixian Temple, which is dedicated to the goddess Mazu. The Ximen market, however, is even more popular with queer travelers, since Ximen is the city’s hub for LGBTQ+ bars, dining, and shopping.
LGBTQ+ TAIPEI
Located in Taipei’s Wanhua District, Ximen (which is short for Ximending) is filled with lights, colors, and people from around the world. It’s a fun place to explore by day, but even more so at night, when the LGBTQ+ scene heats up. The epicenter is set around the Red House, a historic theater built in 1908 that now serves as a cultural center and an interesting shopping venue, thanks to its variety of independent clothing and décor designers and vendors.
The businesses that circle the Red House include a bunch of lively LGBTQ+ bars, most of which provide open-air seating that helps to create a wonderfully social ambiance. We grabbed a table on several evenings during our visit at bars like Mudan, enjoying the people watching, the drinks, and the light food served. My favorite food at the bars around Red House was at Casa Café and Bar, where I savored the pork dumplings.
There are lots of LGBTQ+ bars and clubs in other parts of Ximen, too. We especially liked the Locker Room, a small yet multilevel bar that hosts lively drag shows and go-go boy shower shows with audience participation. It attracts a mixed international crowd, and the admission includes a free drink. For a more relaxed vibe, we headed to Utopia, a second- floor bar that offers karaoke and features a pretty cool gay bear anime wall mural.
For a more scandalous night out, gay men head to Commander D, a darkly lit basement bar with a backroom (as well as an ingenious locker system where you can leave valuables before heading into the darkness). The Saturday admission charge includes a free drink.
Natural hot springs provide yet another opportunity to experience gay life in Taipei. The island is home to countless hot springs, and during the Japanese period (from 1895 to 1945), many were developed as spas. Several are tucked into the hills just outside of Taipei, and one of the most popular among gay men is the Emperor Spa. While not specifically LGBTQ+, we found it to be almost 100% gay when we visited, and we enjoyed the relaxing time spent in the warm waters.
Shopping is another rewarding activity for LGBTQ+ visitors to Taipei. The Red House has vendors including TAGgather, which makes interesting accessories from recycled material, and Taiwanize, a popular clothing brand that maintains a high profile during pride events. My husband, who is a shopaholic, found good buys at Hot Shoes, also in the Ximen neighborhood, as well as at Don Don Donki that provides a trippy, 24-hour shopping experience when you need beauty supplies, packaged food, and other items. We also enjoyed a visit to the Treasure Hill Artist Village in the Zhongzheng district, where several small shops feature the work of local artists and designers for home décor, art, and clothing.
TAIWAN PRIDE
For the maximum LGBTQ+ travel experience in Taipei, it’s best to plan your visit during Taiwan Pride, which takes place on the last Saturday of October. It may not be pride month in most places, but October is a great time to visit Taipei (and avoid the scorching summer heat of June).
As with any large event, planning ahead is a good idea when scheduling a pride vacation in Taipei. Organizers claim it’s Asia’s largest pride celebration, after all, and I met a lot of people who flew in from lots of different countries. So the earlier you reserve flights and accommodations, the better off you’ll be.
I highly recommend signing up for an LGBTQ+ city tour during pride week. These tours provide great insight about the history of civil rights in Taiwan and show important sites like the 228 Peace Memorial Park, which at one time served as an important place for queer people to meet.
Taiwan Pride (Click to enlarge image)
Throughout the week, the Ximen district buzzes with parties, vendors, live entertainment, and exhibits. When we visited, for example, the Red House featured an interesting exhibit about same-sex marriage, and we enjoyed a live music and dance performance on a stage erected just outside. The open-air bars are packed during this time period as well. Clubgoers should also consider attending Formosa Pride, a large, circuit-party-style event that takes place next on October 25-27, 2024.
Pride festivities come to a head during the massive parade, which is complemented by a festival that last year featured more than 120 commercial vendors and nonprofit organizations as well as live entertainment on stage. The parade starts in front of Taipei City Hall, where we enjoyed strolling among the vendors and exhibitors, who had lots of free giveaways and also sold clothing and other pride gear.
The parade is a truly joyous gathering. Many attendees from Taiwan and other countries wear traditional clothing representing their own cultures, which makes it a visual treat. With participants from everywhere from the Philippines to the UK, Australia to Singapore and Japan to Germany, the Tai- wan Pride parade is a truly international display of LGBTQ+ unity. We joined a great group of guys from Asians and Friends, an international social organization, for much of the march, and I also noted the presence of a variety of political groups as well as corporate entities like the airlines Peach and Vietjet, international chicken purveyor KFC, and spirits and wine producer Brown Forman, to name a few. After the parade, we watched the show on the stage in front of city hall, before heading to the Red House in Ximen to enjoy the festive vibes there, too. Taiwan Pride can be as lively as you like it.
RESTAURANTS IN TAIPEI
Foodies love Taipei, and with good reason. Its night markets are legendary and provide a fun and inexpensive introduction to the island’s culinary delights. There are also lots of wonderful sit-down restaurants where you can sample tasty dishes, too.
Modern Toilet Restaurant (Photo by Mark Chesnut @departure_level)
Hotpot is a popular tradition in Taiwan. It’s a rewardingly participa- tory experience, as you place any of a variety of meats and vegetables in a pot of simmering soup that’s heated right at your table. We found a stylish little place by accident for our first hotpot meal: Deer’s Hotpot Bistro, where the waitstaff was especially patient with our linguistic limitations and helpful with their explanations.
Other noteworthy dining venues include the Mountain and Sea House, where the focus is on upscale Taiwanese “banquet food” and dishes are made with locally sourced ingredients; Raw, which serves local fare with a western twist and also offers tasting menus; and Ryu- Gin, where Japanese fine dining incorporates Taiwanese ingredients.
If you’re into bizarrely themed dining, then you won’t want to miss a restaurant that I forced my husband Angel to visit with me: Modern Toilet. You can pretty much guess the theme based on the name. While my hubby wasn’t thrilled with the experience, I found the bathroom- style setting to be a lot of fun for photos, and even Angel admitted the food was surprisingly good. He sipped beer from a ceramic cup shaped like a toilet, I ate tasty chicken curry with rice from a miniature toilet bowl, and drank Coca-Cola from a ceramic, poop-shaped cup and tea from a miniature ceramic urinal. You get the idea.
Our second themed experience was at Fu Fu Café, one of the city’s cat cafes. We sipped non-alcoholic beverages while sitting with the furry residents, who weren’t overly interactive, but were quite good at posing for photos. A light lunch menu is served in the room outside of the cats’ living area.
WHERE TO STAY IN TAIPEI
Hotel Resonance (Photo by Hilton)
There’s a wonderfully diverse array of accommodations available in Taipei, with a variety of styles and price points. We began our visit with a stay at Hotel Resonance, the first Tapestry Collection by Hilton property in the Asia-Pacific region. Opened in 2020 in the Zhongzheng District, this stylish hotel features beautiful décor, contemporary style, and unique features that I wish more hotels had, including a free in-room mini-fridge stocked with snacks and non-alcoholic beverages, a laundry room that’s free for guests to use, daily breakfast vouchers that we could use as we wished at the on-site Starbucks (which is open just for hotel guests in the morning), and a dedicated hospitality suite called the Capsule where we could change clothes and shower after our 16-hour flight. The location is also excellent, just one block from the MRT blue line’s Shandao Temple station.
At the end of our stay, we checked into the Hotel Cho, which is located in Ximen, conveniently close to the Red House and lots of shopping, dining, and nightlife. The hotel has fabulous vintage/retro style, a great staff, and wonderful amenities and location. It’s not a lux- ury property, but it’s a fun place to stay if you’re looking for value with a good location for exploring Ximen. We stayed in an executive double with a tiny balcony and a bed on a platform. I loved the concept of the social area, which is decked out with vintage furnishings and has a snack/beverage area where guests can help themselves to free packaged snacks and non-alcoholic beverages. The main challenge we found was the limited number of outlets in our room (I had to charge my cell in the bathroom because there was nowhere to leave it charging next to the bed). Other than that, it was a great stay.
Taipei is also home to excellent upscale accommodations, including the Mandarin Oriental Taipei, the Kimpton Da An, and the Regent Hotel. The always-hip W Taipei, meanwhile, has sometimes hosted pride-themed events, while the S Hotel is a design-conscious creation by Philippe Starck. In Taipei, it’s easy to find options that fit your style and budget.
Taipei Riverside (Photo by topimages)
Taipei, Taiwan Resources
INFO & TOURS
Edison Tours, 104 SongJiang Rd., Zhongshan District, Taipei. Tel: +866-2-2563-5313. edisontours.com
MyTaiwanTour, Section 2, Nanjing E Rd., Zhongshan District, Taipei. Tel: +886-2-2562-5005. mytaiwantour.com
Taiwan Tourism Bureau, eng.taiwan.net.tw
HOTELS
Hotel Cho, No. 119, Kunming Street Wanhua District. Tel: +886-2-2370-9830. chohotel.com
COMMA Boutique Hotel, No. 77, Xining Road, Wanhua District. Tel: +886-2-2388-6000. comma-hotel.com
Hotel Resonance, No. 7 Linsen S. Road, Happy Village, Zhongzheng. Tel: +886-2-7752-1888. hilton.com
Check Inn Taipei Main Station, No. 4, Xiangyang Road, Zhongzheng District, No. 4. Tel: +886-02-2312-0522. checkinn.com.tw
Citizen M, No. 3, Section 1, Zhonghua Road. Tel: +886-70-1016-1061. citizenm.com
Kimpton Da An, No. 25, Lane 27, Section 4, Ren’ai Road, Da’an District. Tel: +886 2 2173 7999. ihg.com
Mandarin Oriental Taipei, No. 158 Dunhua North Road. Tel: +886-2-2715-6888. mandarinoriental.com/taipei
Palais de Chine, No. 3, Section 1, Chengde Road. Tel: +886-2-2181-9999. palais-dechinehotel.com
Regent Hotel, No. 3, Lane 39, Section 2, Zhongshan North Road. Tel: +886-2-2523-8000. regenthotels.com
S Hotel, No. 150, DunHua North Road. Tel. +886-2-2712 1777. shotel.com
W Taipei, No. 10, Section 5 of Zhongxiao East Road, Section 5 of Zhongxiao E Road, Xinyi Dis- trict. Tel: +886-2-7703-8888. marriott.com
ATTRACTIONS
Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall, No.21, Zhongshan S. Road, Zhongzheng District. Tel: +886-2-2343-1100. cksmh.gov.tw/en
Lungshan Temple, No. 211 Guangzhou St., Wanhua District. No Tel: travel.taipei
National Palace Museum, No. 221, Sec 2, Zhi Shan Road, Shilin District. Tel: +886-2-2881-2021. npm.gov.tw/?l=2
Taipei 101, No.45, City Hall Rd., Xinyi Dis- trict. Tel: +886-2-8101-8800. taipei101.com.tw/en
SHOPPING
Don Don Donki, 3F, No.123, Xining South Road, Wanhua District. donki.com
Red House, No. 10, Chengdu Road, Wan- hua District. Tel: +886-02-2311-9380 www.redhouse.taipei
Treasure Hill Artist Village, No. 2, Alley 14, Lane 230, Section 3, Tingzhou Road, Zhongzheng District. Tel: +886 2 2364 5313. artistvillage.org
LGBTQ+ LIFE
Commander D, No. 36, Section 2, Kaifeng Street, Wanhua District. Tel: +866-2-2389-0899. facebook.com/commanderd36
Emperor Spa, No.42-1, Ln 402, Xingyi Road, Beitou District. Tel: +886-2-2862-3688. emperorspa.com.tw
Fairy Taipei, No. 2, Lane 49, Sec. 4, Zhongxiao E. Rd., Da’an District. Tel: +886-2-2741-8852. facebook.com/fairytaipei
Formosa Pride, formosapride.com
Mudan, No. 45, Lane 10, Chengdu Road, Wanhua District. Tel: +886-2-2370- 0940. facebook.com/mudan.red.house
Locker Room, No. 34, Neijiang Street, Wanhua District. Tel: +866-2-2331-8291. instagram.com/locker.room.men
Taiwan Pride www.taiwanpride.lgbt/info-en
Utopia Taipei, 108, Kunming Street, Wanhua District,. Tel: +886-2-2370-1070. facebook.com/utopiabar1069
RESTAURANTS
Deer’s Hotpot Bistro, No. 15, Alley 6, Lane 553, Section 4, Zhongxiao East Road, Xinyi District. Tel: +886-2-2765-0998. instagram.com/originalpot_official
Fu Fu Cat Café, 3, No. 53, Section 2, Wuchang Street, Wanhua District. Tel: +866-2-2388-3722. facebook.com/FUFUCatCafe
Modern Toilet, 108, Lane 50, Xining South Road, Wanhua District. Tel: +886 2 2311 8822. instagram.com/moderntoiletxm
Mountain and Sea House, No.94, Sec. 2, Ren’ai Rd., Zhongzheng Dist., Taipei City 100. Tel: + 886-2-2351-3345. mountain-n-seahouse.com/en/
Raw, No. 301, Le Qun 3rd Road Tel: +886-2-8501-5800. www.raw.com.tw/en
RyuGin, 5F No. 301, Le Qun 3rd Road. Tel: +886-8501 5808. nihonryoriryugin. com.tw/en
