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Rediscovering Los Angeles

by Arthur Wooten
Rediscovering Los Angeles Photo by Lunamarina

When an opportunity recently presented itself to return to the City of Angels and enjoy her as a complete tourist, I jumped at the chance.

Photo by Lunamarina

The Breakfast Club is like an all day/nightย long brunch extravaganza. Dinner selectionsย include chicken and waffles, pizzas, roastedย salmon, shrimp and grits, and much more. Theyย have a fresh juice bar as well as a

Chicken and Waffles Credit Vivien West

Chicken and Waffles | Credit Vivien West

full-service bar offering an extensive list of cocktails, wines and beer. If I lived nearby, Iโ€™d be a regular for sure. Just a couple of blocks southwest, I found myself at Lighthouse on Sunset Boulevard. The world famous Van Gogh immersive exhibit was showing. Obviously it isnโ€™t something new, but the reason Iโ€™m pointing this out is because of the new venue. Lighthouse was originally the iconic Amoeba Music building, and before that the Park Bowl Bowling Alley. The space offers the immersive 25,000 square feet to display Van Gogh and his work in all its beauty and sadness. It is a cavernous venue, and and even has a staircase up to a catwalk where visitors can watch the exhibit from above. Floor to wall to ceiling transformations of the artistโ€™s work and life constantly shift, move and morph to tell his story and exhibit his breathtaking artwork accompanied by classical music. Adding Edith Piaf singing at the denouement of the visual story offered a well-needed emotional boost to the experience.

I was excited that mid-way through my visit to Los Angeles I was goingย to switch hotels and move over to the Silver Lake Pool and Inn located in the gorgeous Silver Lake neighborhood. The Inn is a gem of a hotel and beautifully designed. Staying here felt like I was at an upscale Mexican spa. My very spacious room had a full view of not only Griffith Observatory but of the Hollywood sign, too.ย 

Upon securing a chaise lounge by the pool, I ordered an exceptionally smart cocktail called an Usignolo. Itโ€™s a concoction of tequila, Aperol, and blackberry with lemon, which instantly melted away all my cares. The Innโ€™s restaurant, Marco Polo Trattoria and Bar, was fantastic. Billed as an Italian Coastal restaurant, the breezy outdoor dining area transported me back to Sorrento. I invited a friend who lives nearby in Silver Lake to join me for dinner one night and everything we feasted upon was delicious.ย ย 

I have to admit, my favorite dish at Marco Polo was probably their simplest. When I first checked in it was almost 3 P.M. and the kitchen was going to close for lunch in 5 minutes. I quickly ordered their cucumber salad made with avocado and mint tossed with a green goddess dressing and a sprinkling of bottarga. If youโ€™re not familiar with it, bottarga is the roe sac of a fish, which is salted, massaged to expel air pockets, and has a wonderful fishy and savory taste. It topped the salad beautifully and I had the chef add to the dish a perfectly grilled chicken breast. Smoky char on the outside, soft, almost buttery on the inside. With a cold glass of Pinot Grigio, I was in heaven.

The Inn is within walking distance of Sunset Junction, which is the intersection of Santa Monica and Sunset Boulevards. A plethora of restaurants, boutique stores, coffee shops, and bars populate this area. And although itโ€™s certainly not new, itโ€™s worth mentioning that the Eagle LA is just a block and a half from the Inn.ย 

One afternoon, I called a car to take me to Daybird, Top Chef winner Mei Linโ€™s sandwich shop. It initially opened March 2021, and when we arrived there was a line of hungry patrons winding around the Silver Lake Plaza. During my visit there was no seating inside or out, so I picked up my pre-ordered Szechuan hot chicken sando (fried chicken thigh) with purple slaw accompanied with the Daybird special sauce and I had my driver head back to the Inn. The sandwich was bigger than my head and with one bite of the super crunchy crust with the perfectly cooked thigh inside I realized why people were lining up for this sandwich. Although I ordered the โ€œmildโ€, after two bites my eyelids were sweating. Delicious, I thought, smiling through tears.ย ย 

The most extraordinary meal and dining experience of my trip, how ever, was at Nancy Silvertonโ€™s The Barish, which is located in the historic Roosevelt Hotel.

Nancy Silverton Credit Anne Fishbein

Nancy Silverton | Credit Anne Fishbein

For those who donโ€™t know, Nancy is a chef, baker, and author. In 2014 she won the James Beard Foundationโ€™s Chef Award and sheโ€™s famous for her sourdough and artisan breads. Nancy opened the outdoor Barish popup with a limited menu in November 2020, and the current restaurant expanded to its full concept for indoor dining in April 2021.ย ย 

Upon entering the restaurant, I was greeted by the very personable and smart general manager, Carone Lowrey. Glancing at the beautiful dining room and bar, I asked her who created it. โ€œOur interior was designed by Nikki Kehoe. We did quite a bit of remodeling and updating when we entered the space.โ€ The Barish is sophisticated yet gives off a very friend ly vibe. Itโ€™s elegant but not stuffy. Upon being seated, Carone went over the menu with me, making suggestions here and there and then paired my choices with possible wines.ย 

Enter David Mintz, my server. He helped me to hone my choices and choose my wines. I must interject that David was outstanding. My first job when I moved to New York City was as a server at Windows on the World, and I know how challenging the work can be. As imperative as the ambience, as well as the food and wine are for a successful dining experience, a huge influence is your server. David was professional but friendly, knowledgeable, and patient. It’s a talent.ย 

This looked like it was going to be maybe six or seven courses and I realized Iโ€™d better just have a few bites of everything or I was not going to be able to get through the evening.ย 

A glass of Nerello Mascalese, a delicious red from grapes grown on the slopes of Mount Etna in Sicily, and suggested by Carone, appeared at my table. Then the feast began. First up, Cicchetti (think Italian tapas). I chose the Pizza Fritta and the preserved vegetables. The pizza features Nancyโ€™s signature dough, so I had to taste it. Each bite was a soft, pillowy, and slightly sweet pocket of deliciousness topped with fresh ricotta and black pepper. I wanted to devour the entire dish, but I needed control. Another plate, the preserved veggies appeared: zucchini, artichoke and eggplant served with a perfectly charred chunk of French-style Boule. The sweetness of the vegetables paired beautifully with subtle acidic tones in the preserve.ย ย 

Then the tomato insalate with a white gazpacho arrived. There were roasted marcona almonds plus a stunning anise hyssop dressing. Oh, and slices of tangerine gave the dish a zing.ย 

Suddenly I looked up and the very soft-spoken Chef Armen Ayvazyan appeared at my table, making sure that everything was to my liking. I praised his wonderful work.ย 

For the pasta dish, I ordered the rigatoni. I know, I know, youโ€™re thinking rigatoni? But wait. Mezzi rigatoni (half portion rigatoni) are stood upright individually and piped into each one is a filling of goat cheese and then a filling of corn. On top was a sprinkling of sage and rosemary, and something else I couldnโ€™t quite put my finger on, then itโ€™s baked in the wood fired oven. Itโ€™s a symphony of flavors. I took another bite and standing before me was Nancy herself, with her signature hairstyle and round colorful eyeglasses. Her huge smile appeared and I suddenly recognized the spice on top and blurted out, โ€œVadouvan! Kind of a French version of curry?โ€ She laughed and said, โ€œExactly.โ€ย ย 

The vadouvan, which does have a kick of heat, dances so well with the tanginess of the goat cheese and the sweetness of the corn. The sage and rosemary added the touch of savory and then thereโ€™s the vadouvan. Nancy said that she makes her own blend. Seriously, she should bottle and sell it, if she hasnโ€™t already. This was the most unexpected and exciting dish on the menu. This isnโ€™t your motherโ€™s mac and cheese, this is the adult version. The rigatoni is not only beautiful and delicious, itโ€™s fun and whimsical.ย 

Nancy also shared that she recently opened a Pizzeria Mozza in London to great success and sheโ€™s excited about opening Osteria Mozza in Singapore in the near future. I thanked both Carone and David profusely, and as I turned to leave I spotted Nancy. She smiled. I went over to her and whispered, โ€œI feel like I just had dinner at your home. Thank you, so much!โ€ย 

Seventeen years went by and I had returned to Los Angeles again, but this time as a full-fledged tourist. From the glitz and sparkling beauty of the Thompson to the sophisticated sumptuousness and welcoming of The Barish, it was exciting to discover that LA was more than alive and still kicking. She is actually stunning. She is a star. She is a true comeback Story. But if thatโ€™s the case, then I guess Iโ€™m the Come Back Kid!ย 

Los Angeles RESOURCES

Silver Lake Inn | Credit Palisociety

Silver Lake Inn | Credit Palisociety

HOTELSย 

Thompson Hollywood, 1541 Wilcox Avenue, Los Angeles. Tel: 323-465-1234. A luxury lifestyle hotel, Thompson is located in the heart of Hollywood. This 11-story hotel features 190 guest rooms, 16 suites, 15,000 square feet of event space, a state-of-the-art fitness center plus a rooftop pool. www.hyatt.com/ en-US/hotel/california/thompson-holly wood/laxth

Jane Birkin Cocktail at Bar Lis Credit Bar Lis

Jane Birkin Cocktail at Bar Lis | Credit Bar Lis

Tommie Hotel, 6516 W Selma Avenue, Los Angeles. Tel: 323-871-1234. Offering a balance of luxury and minimalism, Tommie celebrates the creative traveler wanting to be inspired by their environment. http://www.hyatt.com/

Silver Lake Pool and Inn, 4141 Santa Monica Blvd, Los Angeles. Tel: 323-486-7225. A restorative jewel in Silver Lake offering extra spacious light-filled rooms, an elegant pool and an exceptional Italian restaurant on site. www.palisociety.com

The Godfrey Hotel Hollywood, 1400 Cahuenga Blvd, Los Angeles. Tel: 323-762-1000. With 220 guestrooms and one of the largest rooftops in Hollywood, the Godfrey is a stunning new hotel. www.godfreyhotelhollywood.comย 

The Roosevelt Hotel, 7000 Hollywood Blvd, Los Angeles. Tel: 323-856-1970. Completely renovated and located across Hollywood Boulevard from the Chinese Theatre, it was the host of the first Academy Awards, and is now home to the Barish Restaurant.ย  www.thehollywoodroosevelt.comย 

MUSEUMS/EXHIBITION VENUESย 

Vogue Multicultural Museum, 6675 Holly wood Blvd, Los Angeles. Tel: 323-463-6767. Built in 1935 and once the theatre that premiered all the new movies in Hollywood, the renovated Vogue is now a versatile museum with an eclectic line-up of coming exhibitions. www.vmmla.comย 

Lighthouse, 6400 Sunset Blvd, Los Angeles. Tel: 844-307-4644. The former mega Amoeba Music store, Lighthouse is now an expansive exhibit venue. www.vangoghla.comย 

RESTAURANTSย 

The Barish, 7000 Hollywood Blvd, Los Angeles. Tel: 323-856-1970. Celebrity Chef Nancy Silver tonโ€™s exceptional California inspired steakhouse located in the historic Roosevelt Hotel.ย  www.thehollywoodroosevelt.com/about/fooย 

Bar Lis at the Thompson Hollywood, 1541 Wilcox Avenue, Hollywood. Tel: 323-410- 6210. Bar Lis celebrates the South of France with gorgeous dรฉcor, a bar with a retractable roof and an extensive offering of small plates. www.barlisla.comย 

The Terrace at the Thompson Hollywood, 1541 Wilcox Avenue, Hollywood. Tel: 323-465- 1234. Located on the rooftop of the Thompson Hotel, The Terrace is open for breakfast and lunch with 360-degree views of Hollywood and beyond. www.hyatt.com/en-US/hotel/california/thompson-hollywood/laxth/diningย 

Mes Amis at the Thompson Hollywood, 1541 Wilcox Avenue, Hollywood. Tel: 323-465-1234. Chef Lincoln Carsonโ€™s new French restaurant inspired by the cafes found in Paris and Lyon. www.mesamisla.comย 

Mother Wolf, 1545-1551 Wilcox Avenue, Holly wood. Super star Chef Evan Funkeโ€™s new Holly wood restaurant located in the historic Citizen News building celebrating his love of Roman inspired dishes. www.motherwolfla.comย 

The Dudeโ€™s Brewing Company, 6615 Holly wood Blvd, Hollywood. Tel: 323-321-6056. Hollywoodโ€™s first brewery offering up a staggering amount of signature beers, ales and wines alongside an extensive food menu. www.thedudesbrew.com/hollywoodย 

The Breakfast Club, 1600 Vine Street, Hollywood. Tel: 213-802-2582. Popular hangout for instagramers and influencers offering brunch day and night with a full-service bar. www.thebreakfastclubla.comย 

The Marco Polo Trattoria and Bar, 4141 Santa Monica Blvd, Silver Lake. Tel: 323-486-7176. Set amidst the Silver Lake Pool and Inn this beautiful indoor/outdoor restaurant offering Italian coastal dishes is inspired by seasonal California produce. www.marcopolola.comย 

Daybird, 240 N Virgil Ave Suite 5, Silver Lake. Celebrity Chef Mei Linโ€™s incredibly popular fried chicken outpost. www.daybirdla.comย 

BARSย 

Bar Lis, 1541 Wilcox Avenue, Hollywood. Tel: 323-410-6210. Located on the rooftop of the Thompson Hotel offering an abundance of small plates plus live music and DJs with amazing views of Hollywood. www.barlisla.comย 

Eagle LA, 4219 Santa Monica Blvd, Los Angeles Tel: 323- 669-9472 Although not new, this iconic leather bar is located just a block and a half from the Silver Lake Pool and Inn. www.eaglela.com/homeย 

TRANSPORTATIONย 

Avelo Airlines, 346-616-9500. New to town, the budget airline based out of Houston, Texas servicing Hollywood. www.aveloair.com

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