One of the surprising attributes of this desert oasis is the fact that it is home to an amazing artistic scene.
How could an artist live in an area like this and NOT want to create? Everyone knows Palm Springs as a place to chill out in the desert, a getaway to the world of pleasure, with tons of bars, great restaurants, warm weather, and an LGBT scene thatโs possibly the best in the world. Fewer people, however, realize how vast an amount of art and culture spreads through the Coachella Valley. Public art abounds, and the museums, galleries, and boutiques would be the envy of areas much larger and more urban.
Once the fabled haunt of movie stars, Palm Springs has really undergone a renaissance in the past 20 years or so, fueled by gay dollars and savvy. Hereโs an interesting fact: every member of Palm Springsโ City Council is LGBT. Given this fact (and an overwhelmingly large LGBT population, with estimates at about 55%), youโd naturally expect art and culture (well, I would anyway). Greater Palm Springs doesnโt disappoint. With several theaters, a diverse selection of museums, a Gay Menโs Chorus, and a slew of free public art, many who come to lie around the pool or hit the nightlife might not even realize just how much is available here.
Palm Springs Art Museum Main Entrance
Most of the townโs major events of the year are arts and culture related, like Modernism Week, which spreads across the Valley and celebrates this architectural movement thatโs so prominent in the area, along with vintage design and culture. Held this year February 14-24, itโs a diverse collection of events and sights spreading throughout the valley. In Cathedral City, tours are available of the Cree House, a newly restored 1955 work by noted architect Albertย Frey. A home tour and cocktail party celebrates famed interior designer Arthur Elrod (who also receives a star on Palm Springsโ Walk of Stars). There are guided walks through four classic midcentury homes, a tasting highlighting the friendly mid-century rivalry of California and French wines, symposia, discussions, a new play based on a true-life encounter of architects Richard Neutra and Rudolph Schindler, a classic car show, and a keynote address by world-renowned architect Moshe Safdie. This is just a small sampling of what has come to be the event of the year.
Palm Springs Art Museum
It overlaps with one of the most ambitious arts projects the area has undertaken: Desert X, a biennial extravaganza of public art, which this year is February 9-April 21 and covers the entire valley with site-specific artworks. This year, 15 artworks from artists around the world adorn the valley, and you can either take an organized tour or grab a map and drive yourself. There are no fences, no ropes, no ticket booths.
Modernism Week and Desert X are far from the only artistic festivals the area hosts. Thereโs the Palm Springs International Film Festival in January that presents almost 200 films from around the world. Thereโs the Coachella Valley Music Festival in April, which this year will feature a huge roster of stars. Thereโs also the weekly VillageFest, during which several blocks of Palm Canyon Drive are lined with artists and craftspeople that make this event a cut above the usual street fair.
In Greater Palm Springs, the entire region is like an al fresco exhibit of public art and I seem to find creativity wherever I look.
The arts, of course, arenโt limited to festival times, so letโs check into our hotel and then explore. I love The Saguaro, a former Holiday Inn transformed into an artistic palette of desert wildflower and colors in every shade of red, orange, pink, and yellow. I could spend all day sitting on my balcony and looking at the pool, surrounded by palms and the brightly hued balconies of the other rooms, the sun glowing on the mountains (yes, it actually glows). Theyโve done such a job at transforming the ordinary into the extraordinary.
I also love the Kimpton Rowan, which opened in the heart of town in late 2017 and has immediately become a hit for its coolly designed rooms, amazing mountain views, and the cityโs only rooftop swimming pool. As I walk out the back door of the hotel, Iโm startled to see a group of babies crawling across an abandoned pit. I relax when I realize the children are fiberglass (and about ten feet long). Itโs all the work of Czech artist David Cernรฝ. Entitled โBabies on the Move,โ itโs scheduled to run for about two more years, at which point construction will take its โexhibition spaceโ away. Meanwhile, itโs an intriguing and disturbing piece of public art thatโs well worth seeing.
Your Dog by Yoshitomo Nara at the Palm Springs Art Museum
While downtown, I visit the Palm Springs Art Museum, a beautiful museum with three floors of art. The collection isnโt huge but itโs well curated and displayed, with some stunning pieces. I admire Native American baskets and ceramics, both contemporary and dating back as far as 300 BCE. I pause before an amazing painting of a tiny bird at the center of a huge canvas by Cuban-American artist Enrique Martinez Celaya. Iโm fascinated by a carpet from Azerbaijani artist Faig Ahmed that seems to melt down into the floor, sending its intricate designs down into a puddle of color. I see works by David Hockney and Dale Chihuly, both instantly recognizable. Spanning the centuries and beautifully laid out, the museum is at turns comforting and challenging, modern and age-old, multi-cultural and very Southern California. About ten minutesโ walk away is the Museumโs Architecture and Design Center, one room of constantly changing exhibits (on display now through June: an exhibition about Hugh Kaptur, the well-known Palm Springs architect, and his organic desert architecture). Thereโs also a branch in Palm Desert, a quieter town 15 miles down the road, and itโs well worth a visit for the four-acre Faye Sarkowsky Sculpture Gardenโa perfect way to combine Coachella Valley weather and great art!
The Art of Renewable Energy: Modern Windmills in Palm Springs
One essential area to visit is Palm Springsโ Design District, on the north end of town, mainly along Palm Canyon Drive. Here, there is gallery after home furnishings store after antiques shop after gallery, and I easily while away the entire afternoon looking through some of them. A different and unique take on design awaits at Revivals, an organization that raises money for the Desert AIDS Project. Theyโve taken the art of resale to a new level with their own brand of new design elements called Mode at Revivals, and you can pick up a bit of that โThe Palm Springs lookโ with home furnishings that donโt break the bank. Even the clothing, largely secondhand, has some new gems in it: theyโve partnered, for instance, with designer Will Stiles, and youโll often find some of his fashionable creations at jaw-droppingly low prices. Many local artists and designers contribute their work, and a new line entitled โSewing Hopeโ consists of recycled fabric works done by clients and patients of Desert AIDS Project. Wander through the store: to one side you might find a designer couch, pillow, or vase in a distinctly 1970โs style, while across the store you could find a similar item thatโs actually FROM the 1970s. Itโs a unique and eclectic mixture, driving design forward while at the same time preserving the vintage aspect (which is kind of Palm Springs in a nutshell).
In Greater Palm Springs, the entire region is like an al fresco exhibit of public art and I seem to find creativity wherever I look. At Tahquitz Way and Indian Canyon Drive, โAgua Caliente Womenโ is a beautiful reminder of the tribeโs still-strong presence. In Sunrise Park I see a gorgeously undulating monument called โWave Rhythms.โ Right on Palm Canyon Drive, a bronze fountain depicts a young Sonny Bono (he was mayor here for four years). As I walk from my car to dinner one night, my eye is taken by the rounded yellow forms of a sculpture called โSqueeze.โ In Palm Desert, there are even more: the median of main drag El Paseo is filled with ever-changing displays created by artists in a city-funded public art project that makes this as much an outdoor museum as upscale shopping street (though in galleries such as Coda, youโll certainly find an enviable selection of contemporary art). As I walk down El Paseo admiring the sculptures, my eye is caught by a splash of color just off the corner, and sure enough itโs another piece of public art: a utility box turned into an artwork entitled โSuncatcher.โ I head to the local mall and end up on the outdoor top level of the garage, only to discover more art, as this entire parking area has been turned over to mural artists, their vibrant creations the perfect foreground to the stunning mountain backdrop. I find out later that monthly events are held here, at which youโll see things like a car-painting or a mural going up on what little wall space is left. Suddenly, an hour has passed. I never do get to go shopping! By the way, if you want to be just steps from all this, Iโd suggest a stay at Palm Desertโs new boutique lodging, Hotel Paseo, where the rooms are clean-lined and elegant, the service top-notch, and Palm Desertโs attractions practically at your doorstep.
Giacometti Sculpture at Sunnylands
Case in point: The Living Desert Zoo and Gardens. While Iโm not sure Iโd call it โart,โ itโs certainly a cultural must, with several habitats based around different deserts of the world, from North America to Africa. I pause before the cheetah, looking regal in repose, watch as a porcupine unfurls its quills, see a zebra prancing across an open field, and spend what seems like hours watching the giraffes. All the while, those awe-inspiring San Jacintos Mountains loom above at every step. Itโs a great lesson in the richness and beauty of the desert, and thatโs art of its own kind, right?
Inspired, I head up Highway 74 into the mountains, and it makes me think of the words of a Palm Desert friend, โThereโs something about being out in the desert that allows you to be reflective. Sitting around the pool only gets you so far.โ As I stand among the amazing scenery, thereโs a sculpture greeting me at the entrance to the mountains as if to say โeven up here in the middle of nowhere, thereโs art.โ
In IW Coffeehouse, just over the border from Palm Desert into Indian Wells, as I sit over avocado toast, drizzled with this amazing chipotle aioli, I look up and the guy across the table from me has a set of watercolors and is working on a painting while he eats his breakfast bagel. In Rancho Mirageโs Sunnylands, I look out at the Great Lawn and wildflower trails, noticing a thin figure standing at the window seeming to gaze out at the perfectly manicured landscape in front of him. His elongated bronze form immediately says โGiacometti,โ and sure enough itโs an original work by the great sculptor. Not enough? A few feet away is Rodinโs โEternal Spring,โ an aptly named piece of art for a place so green. You just canโt get away from art anywhere in this Valley!
Palm Springs Door Tour
Into a different cultural world, I head across Rancho Mirage to Tolerance Education Center, an important cultural project, designed to present to students the stories of people who have suffered from intolerance, from Holocaust survivors to representatives of immigrant and LGBTQ communities. The fascinating exhibits in the small museum space include permanent displays, primarily of Holocaust-related items: an album from Dachau, World War IIโrelated political cartoons by Dr. Seuss, a piece of barbed wire from Auschwitz, a concentration camp uniform donated by a survivorโs widow. Thereโs also one changing exhibit, and when I visit, theyโre preparing for โWe Are One: A Photographic Celebration of Diversity in America,โ photographer Russel Hilesโ gorgeous images of the many cultures that make up America. One photo in particular of a smiling group of children of various races and ethnicities is a perfect emblem of hope in a world where hope seems to be disappearing fast.
After the thought-provoking exhibits, Iโm ready for a total escape into nature. On the edge of Palm Springs, I hop on the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway, and Iโm soon ascending past desert and mountain scenery, theย cities of the valley growing smaller and smaller as we climb to 8,516 feet. Departing the tram, I set out on the Desert View Loop Trail through the wooded terrain that somehow combines forest and desert, bleak and lush, sheltered and wide-open. Itโs an incredible hike past Jefferson Pines with red barks and vanilla/butterscotch scent (yeah, I smell them, the sign tells me to). I walk across rocky trails past overturned trees in an almost unimaginable variety of formations, large white-pitted boulders, overhanging branches with a deep green thatโs startling against the clear blue sky. Everywhere I look is a different color, or shape, or combination of colors and shapes, and I can see where painters and sculptors have drawn their inspiration. Better yet, I can feel myself in the studio of Mother Nature, that most eminent artist of all. This is art that needs no museum, no gallery placard. I walk back, the waning sun casts patterns of light across the trees that an artist could only hope to capture, the ridges of pines dark green, fading almost into black, while one little row of trees picks up the light and scatters like gold across the ridge. Pure magic.
Am I getting overly poetic and sentimental? As you know, thatโs not my style. Take a few hours, though, among this landscape, among these forms, underneath this sky, and see if you donโt feel the same way, see if you donโt understand why this area is full of artists and why, with such a backdrop, the Valley just canโt help but be an artistic incubator.
I arrive back in town just in time for happy hour. I know weโre supposed to be exploring arts and culture, but sometimes a guyโs just gotta stop for a drink. On Arenas Road, where the bars beckon you, youโll find Quadz, a video bar with screens across the walls, revolving lights, and nice shaded patio; Chill, which draws a mostly male, mostly middle-aged crowd to its spacious room with large bar at the center; Blackbook, packed with a diverse crowd under the violet-hued walls and pink-lit shelves of drinks; Hunters Nightclub, with its big couches on the patio and classy interior, video screens, pool tables, male crowd, and sign proclaiming โSpirits Elevatedโ; Street bar, the first on the block and a retro wonder of aqua stools, large mirror, rainbow lights, large chandelier, and a middle-aged, male crowd; and Stacyโs @ Palm Springs, all brocade-y wallpaper and where an older-tilting crowd gathers to listen to piano music.
While the bulk of the nightlife is in Palm Springs, there are two winning spots in Cathedral City as well. Trunks, the first to open in town, boasts a kind of vintage gay bar look, with rainbow flag hanging from the ceilings, dark walls, a front room with U-shaped bar, large second room with tables and chairs, pool room, and a patio. The very sweet bartender is the only person in the room under 40, and thereโs a neighborhood-y feel thatโs far from the cruisy atmosphere of Palm Springs bars. Similarly, Studio One 11, in a little strip mall next to a taco joint, feels a little more modern but just as comfy, with a rainbow flag on the wall at the entrance, hanging cone-shaped lights above the long bar, smoking and non-smoking patio space, and dark walls. The crowd here is also all male and mainly middle-aged, and the bar staff is nice as can be. If you need a break from the more high-powered Palm Springs spots, I definitely suggest these two down-to-earth and welcoming places.
Statue of Former Mayor Sonny Bono
When it comes time to eat, youโll find a wonderful array of creative, culinary options from which to choose. I start at Workshop Kitchen + Bar, and itโs a fabulous start. If (unlike me) you plan ahead, you can snag one of the booths, or a table in the pleasant courtyard. Iโm happy, though, with my bar seat and a house-made ginger beer. Then begins one of the best meals Iโve had in ages: a โcauliflower steakโ thatโs a thick slab adorned with swirls of tahini and little cilantro blossoms. More wonders to come with possibly the best chicken breast in the history of chicken breasts, moist and flavorful, an orange-roasted carrot lying insouciantly on top and surrounded by more roasted vegetables and a green curry chicken jus. Itโs (dare I say it) a work of art, and at Workshop you get that rarity: food that tastes as good as it looks.
Another favorite: Grand Central, located in the erstwhile Desmondโs Department store in La Plaza, a 1936 outdoor shopping strip. Itโs a friendly gathering spot that just happens to have great food. Thereโs a gallery at the back featuring local artists, a large clock that reminds me of the one Iโd meet friends under in that โotherโ Grand Central, and a look that effortlessly combines vintage (like the original stamped concrete floors) with a thoroughly modern overhaul. As I tuck into the worldโs best avocado toast, livened with blood orange vinaigrette and arugula, owner Rita Capponi, who opened Grand Central with her husband in May 2018, tells me of the warm welcome sheโs received in Palm Springs: โThereโs a kindness and a friendliness, that if I were to imagine a small town, this would be it, but with a sophistication level.โ That could be a description of Grand Central itself.
Just around the corner lieโs everyoneโs beloved Lulu California Bistro, a spacious and buzzing spot at the heart of town where I start with fabulous ahi tuna on wonton โtostadasโ and continue with a rich wild mushroom soup, lovely chicken piccata (yes, I get hungry), and, why not?, a humongous glass filled with cotton candy. The Lulu owners opened Acqua California Bistro in Rancho Mirage in 2017, with many of the same menu items in a chic, modern spot. Thereโs a lot of glass, an open kitchen, a patio with misters for hot weather, and (of course) an amazing mountain view. The food is just as fab as Lulu (I indulge in an avocado and tuna tartare tower thatโs the epitome of what a โCalifornia bistroโ should serve).
In Palm Desert, AC3 offers food thatโs so beautiful it could be a work of art, but one taste of the sweetcorn/fennel soup with lobster and a balsamic glaze, and pappardelle with roasted mushrooms, onions, and peas, and you realize itโs as much about beautiful flavors as beautiful presentation!
Youโd expect the Design District to have great dining, and it doesnโt disappoint. In addition to Workshop, thereโs Eight4Nine, a sophisticated spot with a lovely patio and a wide array of culinary delights. Just threeย minutesโ walk away is my favorite coffeehouse in town, Ernest Coffee, where I have my usual espresso at a high wooden table under the mural of book-laden shelves, before my curiosity gets the better of me and I order the seasonal special, a fig/honey iced latte. Surprise: itโs amazing, rich, sweet, and refreshing.
Three minutes the other way from Eight4Nine lies Copelyโs, a gracious restaurant that was once Cary Grantโs guesthouse. The interior boasts wide plank floors, stucco walls, archways, and muted hues of rose and teal, though I prefer to sit in the large courtyard, with its terracotta tiles and overhanging trees. Youโll feel like one of Mr. Grantโs personal guests as you tuck into teriyaki-glazed salmon or grilled fillet, relaxing into a world of refinement thatโs both comforting and inspiring.
At the other end of the dining spectrum is the all-organic Palm Greens, an organic cafรฉ thatโs dishing up some wonderful food, from an โavocado roll in a bowlโ to fajita and curry bowls and salads. They also have a great line of smoothies and cool little โwellness shots.โ I get the Taj Curry bowl, a date smoothie, and a โturmeric goldโ shot, and itโs all fresh, flavorful, and healthy.
Before I leave town, I have one essential final stop: Kreem, a wonderful new ice cream and coffee place (can you imagine a better combination?). The house-made, small-batch ice creams are a revelation. I get a Funky Cold Medina: orange blossom ice cream with pistachios and bits of sesame halvah. If it sounds astonishing, it is. For my second scoop, I choose rosemary, that is every bit as deliciously sweet/woodsy/astringent as you might expect from rosemary ice cream. Best of all: everyone I see in there, both workers and customers, is happy. Gee, I wonder why.
Palm Springs Door Tour
Which pretty much sums up Palm Springs and its surroundings, and thatโs one of my favorite things about this area: everyone seems to be happy, and happy to be here. As I take a final stroll up Palm Canyon Drive, the street is like a fairyland, soft light making the adobe buildings look like a film set, palms lined up under the moon, the swirly cobblestone sidewalks of the Walk of Stars honoring celebrities from Lena Horne to Nancy Sinatra, Al Jolson to Sonny Bono, philanthropists and movie stars and authors. People stroll arm in arm, smiling, and I want to say, I get it, I get why. Youโre here in search of pleasure, which is Palm Springsโ and the entire valleyโs special gift: you come here to be happy, and they deliver. Some of the pleasures are obvious, some take some searching out. Make an effort, and youโll be glad you did.
When you walk down Palm Canyon Drive at night, youโll be one of those people I see, with the special glow that comes from discovering, or revisiting, such a very special place. Thereโs that word โglowโ again, but I really can see it, a glow thatโs almost palpable, brightening the faces of the people out in the cool evening air. Thatโs the visitors. To those lucky enough to live here, I want to say, I get it for you too. I mean, you live in this absolutely gorgeous spot, the jewel in a crown that stretches from jewel to jewel to jewel, full of art and culture and all that entails. You have amazing food around every corner (not to mention a piece of art on many of those corners). You look up every day and see this breathtaking scenery. You live in a place full of history, but alive to the moment, with the openness and progressive spirit that is so often a precursor to great art. What reason is there NOT to glow?
