After dark you’ll find lots of options in the Zona Rosa. One of the city’s longest running LGBTQ bars, El Almacen, was a stop on my very first Mexico City gay bar tour, way back in 1991. It hasn’t changed much, with its gritty décor, colorful murals, and small stage that sometimes hosts drag and go-go-boy performances. Pop music from various decades in both English and Spanish keeps the vibe lively, and this is one of the city’s gay bars that attracts patrons nearly every night of the week, so it’s a consistently reliable choice.
For a more dance-oriented ambiance, head to the basement below El Almacen, which is home to El Taller Bar Gay by Cabaré-Tito, part of the Corporativo Cabaré-Tito group, a company that owns multiple LGBTQ bars and nightclubs in the city. El Taller is a dark, small-but-lively dance club attracting a mostly male clientele. A few blocks away, the company’s Cabaré-Tito Punto y Aparte is a compact, multi-level venue with separate sections dedicated to karaoke, drag performances, and dancing.
Another long-running LGBTQ favorite in the Zona Rosa, especially with male night owls, is Nicho Bear & Bar, which bills itself as a bear bar but actually welcomes all. Meanwhile, Vaqueros is the place for gay cowboys, with plenty of appropriate headgear among the fashion statements; and Kinky attracts a mix of people with its highly danceable tracks.
For a large-scale nightclub experience, one of my favorite newer venues is Blow Bar, which offers multiple expansive floors for dancing and enjoying drag and stripper shows. The rooftop bar and dance area offer lots of space to have a drink, enjoy a performance, and take advantage of Mexico City’s pleasant climate. The cool LGBTQ party crowd also loves La Purisima, which weaves vaguely Catholic décor themes into a hip-and-happening nightclub that is often packed wallto-wall with revelers. And for a randy night out, gay men often head to Tom’s Leather Bar, which hosts bare-it-all male strippers and has a large, very dark back room.
FINDING THE RIGHT PLACE TO STAY
It’s not surprising that a metropolis as big as Mexico City has countless accommodation options. Choosing the right place depends on budget, of course, but it can also depend on your specific interests, style preferences, and the activities that are most of interest to you. My personal favorite neighborhoods are Condesa and Roma Norte, since they offer lots of stylish-yet-affordable options for dining and drinking, as well as interesting shops that stock the work of local designers. In addition, their tree-lined streets and multiple small parks are especially attractive for strolling, day or night.
Quetzal in Parque Mexico (Photo by Mark Chesnut)
Travelers looking to stay closer to Mexico City’s oldest, most significant historic attractions, however, will do well in the Centro Histórico, the historic city center, although there isn’t as much to do after dark in that part of town. Those looking for a truly upscale experience should choose Polanco, the chic neighborhood that’s dotted with shops carrying international designer brands and restaurants headed by award-winning chefs. And if you’re looking for proximity to the most LGBTQ nightlife, then staying in or near the Zona Rosa may be the best bet.
As an independent traveler, I’ve found exceptional accommodations through Airbnb and Vrbo, with decent prices for gorgeous apartments with lots of amenities. I’ve had memorable stays in apartment buildings both historic and modern, and usually try to reserve a place with either a balcony or a terrace so I can enjoy the city’s comfortable climate as much as possible.
I’ve also enjoyed some absolutely amazing stays at hotels in Mexico City. I had a lovely stay at the gay-owned Condesa Haus, which is set in a beautiful former home on a quiet street. In the adjacent neighborhood of Roma Norte, I savored a sumptuous, multi-course dinner at the Brick Hotel, which features slick, contemporary décor and is partially housed in a historic mansion.
W Mexico City (Photo by Mark Chesnut)
In Polanco, top choices include Las Alcobas, a member of Marriott’s The Luxury Collection that provides a supremely comfortable stay with an indulgent boutique hotel ambiance, right on Avenida Masaryk, Polanco’s main artery for upscale shopping. Also in Polanco, and bordering magnificent Chapultepec Park, is the JW Marriott Mexico City, which was recently renovated and provides a luxurious stay with one of the city’s best rooftop, open-air pools. Nearby, the W Mexico City exudes a super-cool and creative vibe; the hotel even hosts drag dinner events.
Top hotels near the Zona Rosa include the Sheraton Mexico City Maria Isabel, which sits on a prized location on Paseo de la Reforma, just across the boulevard from lots of great nightlife. The property, which also offers the best views of the city’s iconic Angel of Independence monument (which is also the starting point of the annual pride march), sometimes offers special pride packages.
St Regis Mexico City King Cole Bar (Photo by Mark Knight Photography Marriott Intl)
Just down the boulevard are two additional examples of the city’s best luxury hotel options. The St. Regis Mexico City, which overlooks a monument to Diana the Hunter, offers gorgeous and comfortable accommodations complemented by superb cuisine (my personal tip: try the avocado pizza), while the Ritz-Carlton, Mexico City wows with its spectacular views of Chapultepec Park as well as its excellent cuisine and sky-high balconies.
If you’re looking to stay in the heart of historic downtown Mexico City, meanwhile, one of my favorite choices is the Hilton Mexico City Reforma, which overlooks the lovely Alameda Central park and features a rooftop pool, all just steps from the Palacio de Bellas Artes and a few blocks from the Zócalo.
GETTING TO AND GETTING AROUND CDMX
Mexico City is served primarily by Benito Juarez International Airport, which is located within the city and fields flights from nearly every major airline hub in the United States and Canada. You may see another airport pop up in your searches: Felipe Angeles International Airport, which opened in 2022 outside the city, but the new facility has very few flights (none from the United States as of press time) and is a long and expensive ride from central Mexico City, so it’s best to avoid that airport.
Upon arrival at the Mexico City airport, you can stop at a taxi stand to pay a set rate for taxi services to your final destination, or use your cell phone to call a rideshare service. Uber is a reliable and safe option, while Didi often offers lower prices and is favored by some locals.
Getting around Mexico City is easy when using rideshare apps, although traffic can be daunting and can add quite a bit of travel time, depending on when you’re moving about the city. Mass transit, including the Metro and the Metro Bus, are much cheaper and may in some cases be more efficient than traveling by car.
DELICIOUS DINING
Mexico City is a hotspot for foodies, with options ranging from tasty Mexican street food to mouthwatering upscale Mexican cuisine and sophisticated international dishes. Among the most legendary venues for contemporary Mexican creations are Pujol, where celebrity chef Enrique Olvera unveils creative new dishes on a seasonal basis, and Quintonil, where chef Jorge Vallejo leads a talented team of culinary wizards.
For traditional tacos, many locals and visitors alike recommend El Califa, a stylish, budget-friendly chain with locations in various neighborhoods throughout the city, including Condesa, Roma, Polanco, and Paseo de la Reforma. Budget-friendly, international cuisine in a casual setting is the draw at Mercado Roma, a trendy market with multiple vendors, with specialties including Japanese cuisine, vegan dishes, paella, craft beers, and grilled meats, to name a few. For pizza, one of my personal favorites is Pizza del Perro Negro, a hipster chain where the slim, tattooed waitstaff look like rock stars and the restaurant even maintains its own fanzine and Spotify playlists. Creative pizza options include chilaquiles (based on a traditional breakfast dish), Tennessee BBQ, and mac and cheese.
Sometimes it’s easier to appreciate cuisine when you’re with an expert. For a fun introduction to the best local gastronomical traditions, consider booking a tour with Mexico Underground Tours, an LGBTQ-friendly business run by Ubish Yaren, a true expert on Mexico City’s food scene. His company’s offerings include a Tacos at Night tour, a Downtown Street Food tour, and a Markets Immersion tour, during which you can learn to cook your own street taco.
Whether you explore Mexico City on your own or on a guided tour, you’re bound to find delicious flavors and unforgettable experiences. And whether it’s your first or your fiftieth visit, don’t be surprised if you find yourself hungry to go back again to experience even more of this fascinating destination.
Mexico City Resources
GENERAL INFORMATION
Mexico City Secretary of Tourism, Calle Nuevo León 56. Colonia Hipódromo. Tel. +52-5286-7097. turismo.cdmx.gob.mx
ATTRACTIONS
Casa Azul/Museo Frida Kahlo (Frida Kahlo
Museum), Londres 247, Coyoacán. Tel. +52-55-
5554-5999. museofridakahlo.org.mx
Casa Luis Barragán, General Francisco Ramírez 12, Colonia Ampliación Daniel Garza. Tel. +52-55-8104-0688. casaluisbarragan.org
Casa Ortega, General Francisco Ramírez no. 22, Colonia Ampliación Daniel Garza. Tel. +52-55-8691-2729. ortegamexico.com
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo (Diego Rivera/Frida Kahlo House Studio Museum), Diego Rivera s/n, San Ángel Inn, Álvaro Obregón. Tel. +52-55-8647-5470. inba.gob.mx/recinto/51
Museo del Templo Mayor (Templo Mayor Museum), Seminario Núm. 8, Centro Histórico. Tel. +52-55-4040-5600. templomayor.inah.gob.mx
Museo del Tequila y Mezcal (Museum of Tequila and Mezcal), Plaza Garibaldi, Centro Histórico. Tel. +52-55-5529-1238. mutemgaribaldi.mx
Museo Nacional de Antropologia (National Museum of Anthopology), Avenida Paseo de la Reforma y Calzada Gandhi s/n, Chapultepec, Polanco. Tel. +52-55-5553-6266. mna.inah.gob.mx
Museo Soumaya, Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra, Colonia Granada. Tel. +52-55-1103-9800. museosoumaya.org
Museo Jumex, Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra 303, Colonia Granada. Tel. +52-55-5395-2615. fundacionjumex.org
Palacio de Bellas Artes (Palace of Fine Arts), Avenida Juarez, Centro Histórico. Tel. +52-55-8647-6500. palacio.inba.gob.mx
LGBTQ LIFE
Blow Bar Mexico, Niza 40, Juarez. Tel. +52-55-2230-1556. facebook.com/BlowBarMex
Cabaré-Tito Punto y Aparte, Amberes 61, Zona Rosa. Tel. +52-55-5525-0439. cabaretito.com.mx/punto-y-aparte
El Almacen, Florencia 37, Zona Rosa. Tel. +52-55-5207-9424. facebook.com/elalmacen.bar.1/
El Taller Bar Gay by Cabaré-Tito, Florencia 37-A (basement). facebook.com/CabaretitoNeon
Ex Fabrica MX, Primavera 106, Tacuba. facebook.com/exfabricamx
Kinky, Amberes 1, Zona Rosa. Tel. +52- 55-5514-4920. kinkybar.com.mx
La Purisima, República de Cuba, Centro Histórico. Tel. +52-55-9136-9378. facebook.com/Lapuri.oficial
Marcha del Orgullo LGBTTTI (LGBTQ Pride March). facebook.com/comiteincluyet/
Nicho Bear & Bar, Londres 182, Zona Rosa. Tel. +52- 442-384-8846. bearmex.com
Somos Voces, Calle de Niza 23. Tel. +52-55-5533-7116. somosvoces.com.mx
Tom’s Leather, Insurgentes Sur 357, Hipódromo. Tel. unlisted. toms-mexico.com
Vaqueros, Florencia 35-b, Zona Rosa. Tel. +52-55-1626-4965. facebook.com/vaqueros.bar.oficial
HOTELS
Brick Hotel, Orizaba 95, Roma Norte. Tel. +52-55-9155-7610. itbrickhotel.com
Hotel Brick Beef Tongue with Caramelized Onions (Photo by Mark Chesnut)
Condesa DF, Avenida Veracruz 102, Colonia Condesa. Tel. +52-55-5282-2199. condesadf.com
Condesa Haus, Cuernavaca 142, Colonia Condesa. Tel. +52-55-5256-2494. condesahaus.com
Hilton Mexico City Reforma, Avenida Juárez 70, Colonia Centro, Tel. +52-55-5130-5300. hilton.com
JW Marriott Mexico City, Andres Bello 29, Polanco. Tel. +52-55-5999-0000. marriott.com
Las Alcobas, Avenida Masaryk 390, Polanco. Tel. +52-55-3300-3900. lasalcobas.com
NH Mexico City Reforma, Liverpool 155, Zona Rosa. Tel. +52- 5228-9928. nh-hotels.com
Ritz-Carlton Mexico City, Paseo de la Reforma 50. Tel. +52-55-2734-3480. ritzcarlton.com
St. Regis Mexico City, Paseo de la Reforma 439, Colonia Cuauhtemoc. Tel. +52-55-5228-1818. marriott.com
St. Regis Mexico City dessert (Photo by Mark Chesnut)
Sheraton Mexico City Maria Isabel, Paseo de la Reforma 325, Colonia Cuauhtemoc. Tel. +52-55-5242-5555. marriott.com
W Mexico City, Campos Eliseos 252, Chapultepec, Polanco. Tel. +52-55-9138-1800 marriott.com
DINING
El Califa, multiple locations. Tel. + 52-55-5271-6285. elcalifa.com.mx
Mercado Roma, Queretaro 225, Roma. Tel. +52-55-5564-1396. mr.mercadoroma.com
For a fun introduction to the best local gastronomical traditions in CDMX, consider booking a tour with Mexico Underground Tours. mxunderground.com
Pizza del Perro Negro, Parque España 3. Roma. Tel. +52-5351-7401. muertealapizzafalsa.com
Pujol, Tennyson 133, Polanco. Tel. +52-5545-4111. pujol.com.mx
Quintonil, Av. Isaac Newton 55, Polanco. Tel. +52-55-5280-2680. quintonil.com
