My bus tour ended at the historic Funken Lodge, an 88-room hotel that was elegantly revamped in 2017 to blend its outer Scandinavian wooden façade with modern art deco-inspired interiors and a fine dining restaurant to match. After dropping off my bags and perusing the cozy wool sweaters and geometric bear necklaces of the hotel’s gift shop, I joined my group at Funken’s on-site eatery, Funktionærmessen Restaurant, for a seven-course meal I would not soon forget.
Fluffy gougeres with truffle cream got passed around the table, tartlets made with savory morel mushrooms reminded me of the moss-cloaked Swedish forests of my youth, and a filet of cod capped it all off as the main course. I almost didn’t have room left over for the sea buckthorn sorbet with chocolate hazelnut financier. Suffice to say I went to bed happy and thoroughly sated.
Reindeer in Northern Norway (Photo by Dmitry Chulov)
Svalbard, Norway is becoming something of a hot spot for adventurous travelers who want to experience the brilliant green tundra, serrated aquamarine glaciers, and uncommon wildlife found high above the Arctic Circle.
After a truly elevated breakfast buffet at Funken Lodge, my day began with an early morning glacier and wildlife tour aboard the hybrid-electrical MS Bard. Svalbard is known for its otherworldly Arctic silence, and this eco-friendly catamaran utilizes green energy to run quietly whenever it slows down to view whales, birds, or historic settlements. This ended up being key, as our group saw a pod of white beaked dolphins, small herds of Svalbard’s famously stubby reindeer, and a trio of massive minke whales as we cruised around fjords frosted with a light dusting of fresh snow. The ship also passed the eerie ruins of the abandoned Soviet coal mining settlement of Pyramiden, and I felt my heart skip a beat as we floated past the expansive Nordenskiöldbreen Glacier, grateful for the quiet and the unspoiled wonders of this far-flung gaggle of islands.
Once back at the Longyearbyen Harbor, it was time to wind down from the morning’s excitement with a craft beer tasting from Svalbard Bryggeri, the northernmost brewery in the world. Open on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays for warehouse tours and tasting flights, this small but mighty fermentation hub uses Bogerbreen Glacier water to brew their concoctions, making them truly Arctic beers.
My favorite of the bunch? The hop-forward Spitzbergen IPA. Continuing with the evening’s beverage and foodie theme, I hustled up to Huset with my group for yet another delectable multi-course meal. A Michelin star hopeful, Huset’s Nordic Tasting Menu is focused on refining locally-sourced meats and accoutrements into unforgettable small plates that showcase the flavors of the Arctic.
Something as simple as a sourdough loaf might be infused with ptarmigan gullet grains, while main courses honed-in on reindeer, beetroot, smoked seal, and potatoes with dill. Taking a nod from the up-and-coming alcohol-free movement, guests could choose between an expert-selected juice pairing or wine pairing from the establishment’s Wine Spectator-certified cellar to add to the festive meal. From start to finish, the entire night was unforgettable, and since the weather was clear and the restaurant was within the polar bear-free zone, I skipped the taxi and waltzed back to the lodge as a cluster of completely unphased reindeer sauntered through the village.
