Portugal Road Trip

As we continued to drive south, vistas of pine forests were replaced by cork oak, and the sense of nature intensified. Our overall drive was only around two hours, but it felt a world apart. Indeed, this is a part of Portugal where few international tourists venture.

Tucked away amid rolling hills and meadows, and reached via a rough dirt track, Três Marias provides a unique taste of rural Portuguese life. A former ostrich farm, it evolved into a restaurant and is now a simply stylish turismo rural retreat. There’s just the one remaining ostrich, although she now has donkeys and other wildlife for companions.

This gay-friendly property has eight cool and minimal guestrooms with whitewashed walls and polished concrete floors, softened with homely touches like bunches of wildflowers. There’s no TV, DVD player, or telephone here, adding to the sense of tranquillity and escapism (although there is Wi-Fi on the main terrace if you absolutely must stay connected).

A scrumptious breakfast is included, while the half-Portuguese, half-Swiss owner Balthasar Trueb and his friendly team will provide picnics or prepare a delicious evening meal if required. Balthasar is generally on-hand, cycling between the two main buildings, and can advise on the numerous available activities.

Três Marias is situated on the 350 km Rota Vicentina, a series of designated walking trails along Portugal’s stunning southwest coast, so it’s perfect for a hiking vacation. Other activities make equal use of the natural environs, including horseback riding along the beach with Herdade do Pessegueiro, boat trips up the River Mira with Duca, canoeing with Ecotrails, and relaxing massages with Stress Free Zone.

All these businesses are part of Casas Brancas, a non-profit association established in 2002. It comprises a network of accommodation, restaurants, and outdoor activities, and it aims is to promote quality rural tourism, in turn protecting the region’s identity, culture, landscape, and ecological balance. The idea is that if this region, much of which is designated natural parkland, can sustain a profitable tourist industry in its unspoilt and natural state there’ll be no need for mass-development.

Inspira Santa Marta Hotel

The nearby town of Vila Nova de Milfontes is popular with Portuguese tourists during the peak of summer, but otherwise seems remarkably undisturbed. Of the numerous restaurants, our favorite was Porto das Barcas, also part of Casas Brancas. Situated on the edge of town beside the peaceful old harbor, this long-established restaurant has recently been overhauled by new owner Sofia, a lawyer who came from Lisbon with her husband in 2011 to start a new life. The result is a subtly modern twist on a typical Portuguese restaurant.

A two-hour drive south of here, the Algarve, was our final destination. This coastal region of southern Portugal is characterized by huge resort hotels, golf courses, yacht marinas, shopping malls, and other consequences of mass-tourism. Yet, alongside all of this, you’ll still find beautiful beaches, like gay-frequented Praia de Cabanas, and delightful little seaside hamlets, like Cacela Velha.

Owned by Rupert and Andrew, a gay couple from the UK, Casa Rosada is a charming boutique B&B in the sleepy town of Castro Marim on the Algarve’s eastern edge. Having vacationed nearby in the town of Tavira for over 25 years, they’d grown to love this corner of Portugal. They sold their London home and relocated here in 2006 to breathe life back into a traditional old townhouse with wrought iron balconies and tall wooden shutters.

Andrew was a photo editor for glossy magazines including Marie Claire, Rupert had a catering company, and, with their combined skills, they’ve created a wonderful, warm, and welcoming place to stay. A breakfast of fresh fruit, homemade preserves, and Portuguese pastries is served amid lavender bushes and fruit trees in the rear walled garden, which dramatically overlooks Castro Marim’s medieval castle. You may also dine here by candlelight in the evening. Rupert is a passionate cook, goes to the market daily to shop for fresh, seasonal produce, and is happy to cater for all tastes and dietary requirements.

It’s worth noting that Castro Marim is close to Portugal’s border with Spain, and it takes around 15 minutes to drive across for a meal of Spanish tapas—something we couldn’t resist doing.

What’s fantastic about Rupert, Andrew, Sofia, Balthasar, and many others I met while on this Portuguese roadtrip is that they show a real pioneering spirit. The same sort of spirit Pedro Álvares Cabral must have had when he sailed from Lisbon to discover Brazil. Perhaps these are the first ripples of Portugal’s new Age of Discovery, so why not come and discover it for yourself?

HOTELS

Bairro Alto Hotel, Praça Luís de Camões 2, Lisboa. Tel: +351-213-408-288. Luxury five-star boutique hotel with 55 guestrooms and suites. A local hotspot, it’s worth visiting even if you’re not a guest. Café-Bar BA features DJs and bands performing everything from jazz to bossa nova, while the rooftop terrace offers unique views and is a perfect sunset spot. Rates from €260. www.bairroaltohotel.com

Casa Rosada, Rua Dr Silvestre Falcao 6-10, Castro Marim. Tel: +351-281-544-215. Charming B&B with three spacious guestrooms, owned and operated by a gay couple from the UK. The lovely private garden is the perfect spot for breakfast, and even more magical by candlelight should you opt to take dinner here too. Rates from €75. www.furtherafield.com/casa-rosada-portugal

Evidencia Belverde Atitude Hotel, Avenida de Belverde 70, Amora. Tel: +351-210-426-900. Newly constructed hotel with black and gold swimming pool and other decadent design touches. There’s also an indoor pool, spa, restaurant, and bar. Located in a residential area, it’s nevertheless close to Praia 19 gay beach. Rates from €70. www.evidenciabelverde.com

Hotel Anjo Azul, Rua Luz Soriano 75, Bairro Alto, Lisboa. Tel: +351-213-478-069. Simple and inexpensive gay hotel with 20 guestrooms in an historical, blue-tiled building. Although it doesn’t provide services such as breakfast, there are many options in the nearby streets. It’s also conveniently located for Lisbon’s gay scene. Rates from €40. www.anjoazul.com

Inspira Santa Marta Hotel, Rua de Santa Marta 48, Lisboa. Tel: +351-210-440-900. State-of-the-art technology, feng shui, and sustainability combine at this contemporary, gay-friendly hotel. The 89 rooms and suites reflect the five natural elements. There’s also a spa and gym, brassiere restaurant, bar, lounge ,and game room. Rates from €99. www.furtherafield.com/inspira-santa-marta-lisbon-portugal

Três Marias, Ribeira da Azanha, Vila Nova de Milfontes. Tel: +351-965-666-231. Tranquil, gay-friendly rural retreat surrounded by meadows of wildflowers. The eight rooms are cool and contemporary, each with private terraces. Rates from €70. www.furtherafield.com/tres-marias-south-west-portugal

Setubal Beach

BARS & RESTAURANTS

Beira Mar Restaurante, Avenida 1 de Maio, Fonte da Telha. Tel: +351-912-850-516. Lovely beach restaurant with an outside terrace overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. With many fish specialities, it’s a perfect spot for lunch or dinner. www.facebook.com/rest.beiramar

Cabana Beach Bar, Fonte da Telha. Tel: +351-212 977-711. Trendy beach bar and café, especially recommended at sunset. Popular with surfers and a hip young Portuguese crowd, with regular DJs and live music. www.facebook.com/CabanaBeachBar

Construction, Rua Cecilio de Sousa 84, Lisboa. Open Fridays, Saturdays and Public Holidays from midnight to 6 A.M., this industrial-style club is popular with a more scruffy, bearish crowd. Its owners also run Lisbon gay bars Woof LX and Woof X, and leather shop Mr. Woof. www.constructionlisbon.com

Restaurante Casa Das Tortas 1910, Praça da República 37, Vila Nogueira de Azeitåo. Tel: +351-969-146-996. Restaurant with garden and outside barbecue grill, ideal for sampling local wine and Moscatel, plus Azeitåo cheese and pastries. www.facebook.com/casadastortasdeazeitao

Restaurante Porto das Barcas, Estrada do Canal, Vila Nova de Milfontes. Tel: +351-283-997-160. A classic Portuguese restaurant, but with subtle contemporary twists to both the menu and the décor thanks to new owner Sofia. A part of the Casas Brancas network of rural businesses. www.casasbrancas.pt

Trumps, Rua da Imprensa Nacional 104. Lisboa. Open Fridays, Saturdays and Public Holidays from 11:45 P.M. to 6 A.M., Lisbon’s leading gay club has two dance floors and chill-out lounge. It’s popular with a young, predominantly gay male crowd. www.trumps.pt

ATTRACTIONS & ACTIVITIES

Duca River Trip. Captained since 2004 by Rui Catalão, this little boat sails up the peaceful River Mira from Vila Nova de Milfontes to the historical town of Odemira, providing opportunities for sunbathing, swimming, and birdwatching. The schedule is determined by the tides, but options include daytime and sunset sailings. Fishing trips are also available. Prices from €20 per hour. www.duca.pt

Ecotrails. Heralding from Germany, Anke Ruschhaupt provides canoeing on the River Mira–a great way to discover its landscape
and biodiversity. The lightweight canoes have a capacity of two or four people. Anke can also provide picnics, as well as renting tents and mountain bikes. Canoe rental €30 for one day. www.ecotrails.info

Herdade Do Pessegueiro. Equestrian center run by experienced horse breeder, Cláudia Castanheiro. Novices may enjoy an accompanied one-hour horseback ride along beautiful local tracks, while experienced riders can take a four-hour ride including picnic. Bespoke weeklong riding vacations also available. Prices from €20 for a 1-hour ride. www.herdadedopessegueiro.com

José Maria de Fonseca, Rua José Augusto Coelho 11/13, Azeitao. The former family residence and ancient wine cellars of Portugal’s oldest wine producer are open for guided tours, followed by tastings in the wine shop. www.jmf.pt

Stress Free Zone. Judith and her colleagues Daniela and Anna offer a host of holistic treatments, including reiki, shiatsu, and watsu—perfect for alleviating aches from hiking, horse riding or canoeing, or as an indulgent treat. Massage from €40. www.stress-free-zone.org