Recently, I had the wonderful opportunity to sail along the Danube River with Brand g Vacations (brandgvacations.com).
Their trips are all-inclusive except for airfare. So, this means everything is included and paid for upfront: airport, hotel transfers, Wi-Fi, shore excursions, all drinks and meals when on the ship, gratuities, and onboard entertainment. My seven-day voyage on the Amadeus Silver III ship also included two nights in Prague.
My husband Bud joined me on the trip, and once we landed in Prague Brand g had a car service waiting to take us into the city. It was a stunningly gorgeous day as we crossed the Vltava River. Off to our right we could see the famous medieval Charles Bridge, and down on the water were a sprinkling of boats, including some larger ones which were moored after being transitioned into restaurants.
The city is totally walkable, especially when staying at the Prague Marriott (marriott.com), which is positioned right in the center of the old city. Upon checking into our stylish room overlooking red tiled roof tops and several spires, we dashed out the door because it was the last day of the Prague Pride (praguepride.cz) celebrations. The final event, the parade, which began at Wenceslas Square had already started and would end up at Letná across the Vltava River. Along the 3.5-mile route to the park were six strategically placed stages offering a variety of musical performances. Some travelers in our group arrived early enough to march in the parade and represented the USA showing our support for Prague’s LGBTQ+ community.
The Start of Prague Pride Parade (Photo by Prague Pride Festival)
Approximately 60,000 people attended and/or marched in the parade, and at different times during the week the attendees swelled to over 90,000. Gay Pride Prague has become the Czech Republic’s largest LGBTQ event.
On our own later that afternoon, we explored Old Town before heading back to the hotel for a meet and greet cocktail party with all our fellow travelers and our Brand g hosts. I have to say that from the moment we arrived we were greeted with warmth and friendliness from everyone, especially the Brand g ambassadors Les Porter, Mike Mumford, and Johnathon Gallagher.
As with all of the group activities, we were told we could participate if we felt so inclined or just be a spectator, but Bud and I felt we should just jump right in. This party was to be an ice-breaker and the rule was to show up wearing something that would have other guests guessing as to where you are from. Being from New York City, Bud wore a shirt with King Kong climbing the Empire State Building, but I went a little more cryptic wearing a T-shirt with a silkscreen of a man in a wheelchair with an injured leg looking out of a window with binoculars. Very few people guessed it was referring to the movie Rear Window, which is set in New York City, but it was a terrific way to create a comfortable and welcoming atmosphere for everyone involved. Plus, the unlimited champagne didn’t hurt either.
Blue Danube Tea (Photo by Arthur Wooten)
What made our Danube River cruise so memorable were the people and places we connected with and experienced along the way.
There were travelers from the Pacific Northwest, Florida, Canada, Scotland, Italy and Australia! All in all, there were about 145 of us ranging in age from mid-30s to late-70s. A small item with a big impact were the magnetized name tags that Brand g offered to each of us to wear throughout the trip, showing our first name and the city we were from. Very smart.
I also had the opportunity to ask Jeff Gundvaldson, co-owner of Brand g Vacations, what he feels sets his cruise company apart from others. “I think it’s our focus on more intimate land tours, river cruises, and smaller oceangoing vessels. The smaller size of our travel programs allows us to provide a higher degree of personalized and individualized service to our guests both leading up to and during our trips.” And I couldn’t agree with him more.
That night we were on our own to explore Prague and its abundance of restaurants and cafes. Prague is known for its stunning architecture, ranging from Gothic to Renaissance with a multitude of Baroque, Rococo, and Romanesque, but it was an amazing Art Nouveau civic building called the Municipal House (obecnidum.cz) that grabbed our attention. Completed in 1912, it was originally the palace for King Wenceslas IV. Now owned by a private company, inside there is an elegant concert venue, Smetana Hall (pragueclassicalconcerts.com) along with exquisite parlors and state rooms where international guests, celebrities, and politicians have gathered in the past.
The Art Nouveau Municipal House in Prague (Photo by Maziarz)
There is also the restaurant Municipal House Café (kavarnaod.cz) that dazzles with its grandeur and beauty. By far the most delicious dish we ordered was the goose liver pâté. It was simple, elegant, and delicious. The pâté was buttery and had a great mouth feel. We also ordered the goulash, which was made with large chunks of beef swimming in a rich onion gravy and served with houskové knedlíky (Czech bread dumplings). If you’ve never had them, the dumplings are very moist white bread sliced thick and full of holes, You cut your bread and drag it through the amazing sauce.
There are many must see tourist attractions in Prague, and we had only enough time to visit a few of them. The famous Astronomical Clock (czechcenter.org) is a medieval marvel that was built in 1410. It might not be the easiest clock to read, but it’s certainly one of the oldest and most beautiful. Really try to visit it on the hour for a spectacular show.
Prague Old Town Square, Tyn Church, and the Astronomical Clock (Photo by Rostislav Glinsky)
A few blocks south is Prague’s Dancing House (dancinghousehotel.com) that is nicknamed Ginger and Fred. It was designed and built on the banks of the river Vltava by Croatian Czech architect Vlado Milunić in conjunction with Canadian-American architect Frank Gehry.
Close by is the famous Charles Bridge, and from there it’s a short walk up the hill to Prague Castle (hrad.cz). This is the largest ancient castle complex in the world (750,000 square feet), and it is also the official office of the President of the Czech Republic.
There are many more main attractions to explore, but don’t ignore exploring the small side streets for a real taste of the Prague experience. One gem you will find off the beaten track is the Mucha Museum (mucha.cz). Dedicated to the Czech Art Nouveau artist Alphonse Mucha, it’s filled with his paintings, prints, drawings, and lithographs.
After our two nights in Prague it was time to travel south to Passau, Germany to board our ship. Like with all of our excursions, we were split up into smaller groups of 30 or less and boarded busses for the pleasant and bucolic ride. If you are a first-time river cruiser, the Danube River is a brilliant way to dip your toes into the water. You will visit several of the most beautiful and important cities in the world as well as explore some of the not so well-know little villages that are absolutely adorable, like Passau.
Passau is technically a part of lower Bavaria and lies on the border of Austria. It’s known as the city of three rivers because it’s here that the rivers, Ilz and Inn converge with the Danube, and our ship was moored exactly where the three rivers meet. And what a ship she is. The 5-star AMADEUS Silver III (lueftner-cruises.com) is sleek and modern with a contemporary feel inside and out. There are 84 staterooms (72 cabins and 12 suites) each river facing. All of the public rooms, such as the lounge and the restaurant were beautifully decorated with an easy flow and layout. The ship also has a gym and a spa.
AMADEUS Silver III
After checking in, which was a breeze, we walked upstairs to the Mozart deck to find our cabin. Elegant is the first word that comes to mind. It was decorated in blues, golds, and beige, and the two standouts with this room were the walk-in closet and the drop-down panoramic window. With a touch of a button it electronically opens up. It was great just to feel and smell the fresh air circulating into our room when relaxing, and it was especially handy when taking photos from the cabin, whether the ship was moored or in transit.
It’s important to note that Brand g does not own the AMADEUS Silver III. They charter the entire ship for their clientele, just like they charter the Atlas Cruise ships. So, unlike most other companies, we are not a small group traveling with a mega ship full of straight people. Although that can be very enjoyable, here there was a sense of true relaxation and knowing we could be ourselves with no judgment.
The staff, from the Captain, Costica Mihai, to the entire crew were friendly and fun. One bartender I spoke with said he’s straight but loves the gay cruises. “You guys are much more fun!” And although Johnathon, Mike and Les were onboard to answer any and all our questions and join us on the excursions, the ship comes with its own cruise director. Ours was the magnificent Alina Radulescu, who not only runs a tight ship, but she’s also hysterically funny. Alina really made the trip a blast for us.
Passau, Germany (Photo by Sina Ettmer Photography)
Our first night we were moored in Passau and after a multi course dinner with regional red and white wines flowing freely, we were treated to a Broadway caliber evening of song and laughter with the absolutely amazing Meghan Murphy (meghanmurphybigred). A gorgeous statuesque woman with fiery red hair, she is the consummate entertainer. Within moments, she had the entire ship in the palm of her hand. Comedienne, singer, and actress—she’s smart, sassy, and soulful. With a voice as clear as a bell, Meghan can belt out Broadway favorites and then turn around and break your heart with a tender ballad. Accompanying her at her piano was pianist, singer and comic Ben Papworth (benpapworth.com).
Ben Papworth (Photo by Arthur Wooten)
Rounding out the onboard entertainment was comic female impersonator Ceri Dupree (facebook.com/CeriDupree). He delighted us with Dame Edna, Marlene Dietrich, Bette Davis, Mae West, and Zsa Zsa Gabor (honestly there were so many, I’m wrestling to remember). Also, popping up at opportune moments during the cruise was Les Porter’s drag persona the delicious diva, Lesley O’Shey, and Johnathon Gallagher’s alter ego/twin sister Maissie Dubois, a wannabe cruise director who spends most of her time locked in her cabin due to insubordinate behavior.
Big Red (Photo by Meghan Murphy)
Following a perfect night’s sleep and a delicious breakfast, we had to make a decision: enjoy a 9-hour trip to Salzburg to visit settings where the movie the Sound of Music was shot or stay in Passau and venture out with an escorted tour or explore on our own. We decided to do Passau on our own.
The town is charming, easy to walk, and we had another sunny day to explore. In the center of Passau stands St. Stephan’s Cathedral (bistumpassau.de) which boasts one of the largest church organs in the world. On a more intimate level, check out Artist’s Alley (Höllgasse 16-18) where you’ll discover a rainbow-colored cobble stone walkway leading to many artisans’ shops. When the weather is nice, they exhibit artwork outside. That evening the ship gracefully sailed along the Danube as we enjoyed a fantastic dinner and were treated to Big Ben’s Broadway Quiz Show. Hilarity ensued as Ben hosted the show and the winner received $500 off of their next Brand g Vacation.
The next day we arrived in Melk, Austria and visited the Melk Abbey (stiftmelk.at). It’s an extraordinary example of Baroque architecture and the current structure was built between 1702 – 1736. Its beauty is quite breathtaking.
Baroque Angels by Danube in Dürnstein, Austria
Just a bit farther up the Danube I really enjoyed exploring Dürnstein. Located within the Wachau region, with its rolling hillsides, vineyards, and ancient ruins, this region is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The town is midway between the river and the Dürnstein Castle, or what’s left of it. It’s believed that Richard the Lion Hearted was imprisoned in the castle. Nowadays, it’s wine and apricots that the region is famous for. We savored a wine tasting at Weingut Böhmer (vinea-wachau.at/en). Also in this storybook village is the Dürnstein Abbey (stift-duernstein.at) as well as some charming boutiques and 5-star Inns.
Next, we were off to explore Bratislava which is the capital of Slovakia. Probably the most popular site to visit is the Bratislava Castle (visitbratislava.com) and her surrounding gardens perched high above the town.
The city proper is still making a slow comeback after the fall of the Communist regime, but the universities here populate the city with youth and vigor. There are many “happening” cafés and restaurants to enjoy along Michalská Street in the Old Town, but the brilliant highlight of our excursion was our local tour guide, Ludmila. Her comic timing and self-deprecating sense of humor was amazing.
I have to admit I’m not a morning person but, on several occasions, I crept up to the top deck of the ship with coffee in hand to watch the sun rise. I was amazed at how pastoral the Danube River is. In between towns and cities, the land is totally unspoiled and undisturbed. It’s relaxing and peaceful.
The following port of call was glorious Vienna, and we would be spending two days and nights there. One morning was devoted to the Schönbrunn Palace (schoenbrunn.at), the official summer palace of Maria Theresa. She was the ruling Empress of Austria and the Hapsburgs territories from 1740—1780. Married to Emperor Franz Joseph, she’s probably best known for having 16 children, the second to the youngest being Maria Antonia aka Marie Antoinette. But few know that after the smallpox epidemic of 1767, Maria Theresa promoted the novel concept of inoculation. She had herself and two of her children vaccinated, and it worked. She eventually created an inoculation center.
Schönbrunn Palace in Vienna (Photo by SCStock)
The Baroque Schönbrunn Palace must be seen to be believed. It’s been in the Hapsburg family since 1569 and it was Maria Theresa who redesigned the complex after 1743. With a total of 1,441 rooms, the interiors are of the Rococo design. Due to its cultural significance the palace and its grounds are now a UNESCO World Heritage site.
The adjoining garden is massively beautiful with 32 larger than life-size stone statues line up on either side of the garden’s Great Parterre with the Neptune Fountain keeping watch from its central location. There’s also a botanical garden, a very large zoo, and a magnificent gloriette overlooking the gardens and palace from its strategic position perched high on the hill.
We also made a visit to the most important religious building in Vienna, St. Stephan’s Cathedral (stephanskirche.at). Completed in 1578 this Roman Catholic church is part Romanesque, part Gothic architecture. It was jam-packed with tourists. Over 6 million people visit the cathedral every year. Sometimes, when your travel schedule is so busy with the overwhelming cross-patterning of sights and sounds, it’s imperative to take a break, get off your feet, enjoy an espresso or a glass of wine, and maybe order a mouth-watering dessert and just people watch, and that’s exactly what we did after our tour of the church. Zwischen Gang Café & Wein (zwischengang.at) is located on the Stephanspatz facing the backside of the Cathedral. We ordered coffee and split a mouth-puckering zitronentarte (lemon tart).
The following morning, as I had done every day on the cruise, I went down to the AMADEUS Club room at the stern of the ship. It’s a handsome and peaceful room with large picture windows at the back end of the vessel. There is a high-end coffee machine where you can make your own espressos, cappuccinos, and more. Often, I had the room to myself, but this morning there was another guest. We toasted with our coffees as we gazed out upon our last stop, Budapest.
You could spend a week in Budapest and not have discovered all that she has to offer. The Danube divides Budapest into its two cities, Buda and Pest. This morning we were heading out to explore Castle Hill and the Fisherman’s Bastion on the Buda side.
Initially built as a lookout, Fisherman’s Bastion is now a top tourist attraction offering the most remarkable views of Buda, Pest, and the Danube River. Also located nearby is Buda Castle and Matthias Church (matyas-templom.hu).
Built in the latter part of the 13th century in the late Gothic style, the church is named after King Mathias. We visited on St. Stephen’s Day, which is a national holiday commemorating the foundation of the Hungarian State. In the early part of the day the city was already buzzing with activity when suddenly there was a roar overhead as we experienced a military fly over display of helicopters, planes, and jets.
The famous Széchenyi Chain Bridge (bridgesofbudapest.com) that connects Buda with Pest was pedestrian only for the holiday, and throughout the city were festivities, food events, and concerts. That evening we had a special captain’s gala farewell dinner and the menu was superb. During the entire week the food and the service were impeccable, but this night was most impressive. Did I neglect to mention that the ship has its own baker on board?
Our six-course menu consisted of: Asian Infused Tuna Tartar, Forest Mushroom Carpaccio, Crispy Chicken Tandoori, Cassis Sorbet, Roast Beef and Tiger Prawn, and the special dessert paraded around the restaurant with the staff waving sparklers was a flaming Baked Alaska. The cassis sorbet was a great palate cleanser, but the star of my meal was the beautiful medium-rare roast beef with a Béarnaise sauce.
Fireworks in Budapest enjoyed from the top dec of the ship (Photo by Johnathon Gallagher)
Shortly after dinner we all made our way to the roof deck and with champagne in hand we proceeded to experience the most exciting set of fireworks display I’ve ever seen. It began with music and bright saturated colors projected on the House of Parliament. There was a barge parallel to our boat, it was quite close to us and this is where the pyrotechnics were launched. The star bursts of fireworks exploded directly over our heads. I’ve seen many fireworks all over the world but this was the most “wow” inducing. Thank you, Budapest.
Once the fireworks ended and people headed back down into the ship to party, I stayed up top for bit and thought back upon this extraordinary trip through five different countries and wondered, what makes a trip memorable?
I think it’s the connections you make. It may be with a location, or a new cuisine, or with the people you meet. It may be a brief, wonderful connection, or knowing that you’ve made a lifelong friend. That’s what made my Brand g Vacation so memorable, the people and places we connected with and experienced along the way.
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