HOSTARIA CASTELLO
Hostaria Castello (Photo courtesy of Hostaria Castello)
Tucked in between the Castello area and the Arsinal, spend the time it will take to find Hostaria Castello. Actually, allow yourself extra time to get lost, because you probably will. The restaurant boasts, “Here you can enjoy delicious dishes, surrounded by the enchanting atmosphere and sumptuous decor inspired by the iconic Orient Express.” This is one of the most romantic restaurants in Venice. I would describe the décor as rustically elegant and I think I counted 8 tables at the most, hence you get amazing attention from the servers and staff. The dishes and the way they are prepared and then stylized is simply gorgeous.
For a starter I enjoyed their beautiful copper tomato with a soft heart of burrata and basil sauce. It’s a work of art. For a main I chose the sea bass fillet with basil sauce and stuffed fried eggplants. The bass was so fresh I thought it was going to jump off the plate. Combined with the stuffed eggplants it made for an unexpected and delicious pairing.
From the warm and embracing ambience to the superior service and innovative dishes, Hostaria Castello is one of my favorite establishments in Venice. Reservations are highly recommended. Castello 3476. Tel.+39-320-063-5359. hostariacastello.com/
Sometimes, especially in Venice proper, you may want and need to get away from the hordes of tourists. My suggestion is to take a break, jump on either the 4.1 or 4.2 vaporetto (water taxi) and head on out to the island of Murano. Yes, I know it’s where groups of tourists are dragged off to watch glassblowing which I happen to love doing, but the island also is beautiful in itself and offers up some fantastic dining options. My favorite in Murano is:
RISTORANTE LA FORNACE
Risotto Alla Pescatora at La Fornace in Murano (Photo courtesy of La Fornace)
It’s a very short walk from the vaporetto stop, and when you first come upon the address the building looks a bit foreboding. You may even wonder if you have the right address. It’s a chunky ancient palazzo, but, trust me, once you walk inside it’s another world. Large arched windows look out upon the open lagoon. You’ll feel like you are dining on top of the water. It feels expansive, light-filled, and airy. The décor is a combination of attractive light woods, glass, and exposed brick. And of course, multiple authentic Murano glass chandeliers adorn the entire space. There’s even a wrap-around deck that allows you to dine even closer to the water, if you wish.
My favorite time of day here is at “golden hour,” which technically is the last hour before sunset. It’s magical. And it’s one of the few restaurants in Murano that is open in the evening. (most cater to the day trippers). I love when restaurants offer a selection of small appetizers. It gives you a chance to taste a whole range of recipes you might not otherwise try. La Fornace has a delicious antipasto di pesce which is a collection of seafood hors d’oeuvres that changes from season to season. During this visit I was served razor clams, octopus, marinated herring, pickled onion, tomatoes, cod, shrimp, scallops, and sarde in saor (sweet and sour sardines). It’s meant for two people to share, however I made a big dent in it all by myself.
For a first course I ordered their risotto ala pescatora which translates to risotto with seafood. It’s the type of dish that when it arrives at your table, guests around you gasp out loud with, “oohs & ahhs.” The risotto had that perfect al dente bite to it. Cooked with an intense fish stock, I could detect traces of tomato accented with the delicate floral aroma of basil. Put it all together and it’s this amazingly sophisticated flavor bomb. The crowning glory to this dish are the langoustines.
Quick note: Langoustines (some refer to them as scampi with the plural being scampo) are in the crawfish family, however the difference between them is basically that crawfish grow in fresh water and langoustines in salt water.
As with all the seafood I tasted on this trip to Venice, the freshness was extraordinary. Well, it should be; most everything is caught locally within hours of consuming. I can’t wait for my next trip to Venice. I’m going to venture out even further to the island of Torcello and dine at Locanda Cipriani (Piazza Santa Fosca, 29 – 30142 Torcello. Tel. +39-041-730-150 https://www.locandacipriani.com/en/restaurant/) where Gianni Versace, Kim Novak, Rod Stewart, Lady Diana, and even Ernest Hemmingway have visited. In fact, Hemmingwaye wrote his novel Across the River and Through the Trees on Torcello. The restaurant’s guest book is full of an international collection of Who’s Who. Fondamenta Manin, 1. Murano Tel. +39-041-527-5408. lafornacemurano.it
OLD FAVORITES FROM MY PREVIOUS TRIPS TO VENICE
My first trips to Venice were almost entirely focused upon music and art. It may have been tickets to the world-renowned opera house, Teatro La Fenice, or possibly enjoying a selection of world-famous arias presented at Musica a la Palazzo in their sumptuous mansion overlooking the Grand Canal. It may have even been a simple and moving church concert such as at the Chiesa of San Vidal performed by extraordinary talented musicians. The museums to explore are endless, and then there’s Venice herself. It’s always a glorious experience to simply wander through her streets and crisscross over the canals, bridge after bridge, stopping periodically to take in her stunning beauty.
A few years back, however, a huge shift occurred. In my book, Venice suddenly became a culinary destination. There’s no denying that Venetians were always enjoying splendid local produce or catching the freshest seafood in her waters, but it seems as though a new wave of culinary artists appeared while simultaneously, small trattorias and tavernas were upping their game. Here are some of my favorites.
PANE VINO
Massimo at Pane Vino
Photo: Arthur Wooten
On past trips to Venice I had marked a visit to Pane Vino on my culinary to-do list , but for whatever reason it didn’t happen. Luckily, on my most recent trip, by chance, my travel partner Bud and I rented an apartment directly across the street from the restaurant. This was also the week of the 2nd highest Acqua Alta in 50 years! Our first night, we passed the Osteria as a waiter stood in the doorway. I expected him to wrangle us in, but no, he just pleasantly smiled. We walked on a bit and I turned around and he waved to me. I stopped Bud and said, “Let’s go back.”
His name was Massimo and although he would disagree with me, he spoke wonderful English. Being on the early side (jet lag was setting in) there were just a few patrons scattered throughout the charming and rustically decorated restaurant. After introductions were made and menus offered, two refreshing glasses of crisp and dry prosecco appeared, compliments of the house.
For appetizers, Bud ordered a plate of their grilled veggies: eggplant, zucchini, and peppers. All local and fresh, and the char on them was lovely. I ordered the sarde in saor, sweet and sour sardines. I surprised myself because I’m not a fan of sardines, but this is such a huge staple of Venetian’s diet that I thought I must give it a chance. The serving size was enormous with the sardines smothered in caramelized onions and toasted pine nuts and raisins. I took a bite and my eyes widened. Massimo must have been watching because before I knew it he was standing next to me. Still savoring the perfect bite and not speaking, I pointed to the dish and looked up at him. He smiled and nodded, knowingly. It was magnificent. The bones in sardines are edible and a great source of calcium, but you always feel them crunching away. These sardines melted in your mouth and the dish had a right balance between sweet and sour. The onions and raisins were the perfect counterbalance to the sardines and the vinegar, while the nuts offered the crunch factor and earthiness. These sarde in saor made the back of my palette sing!
Next up, Bud ordered the black tagliolini with shrimp and porcini mushrooms. Another fantastic dish. The black squid ink in the pasta was subtle but very distinct. It truly tasted like you were eating a mouthful of the Adriatic Sea. Coupled with the porcinis and the shrimp, this was heaven and sea mixed into one.
This would not be our last visit to Pane Vino. On another night, I ordered as an appetizer their scallops and razor clams au gratin. The chef treated the dish with a flame broil. It was so simple yet amazing that I did something I’ve never done before. I signaled Massimo while I was still chewing and he walked over and smiled. I pointed to the dish and managed to express my joy by blurting out, “I’ll have another, please?” He laughed as I confessed to him that this was the very first time I had ever ordered a dish twice in one restaurant visit. And each night we dined at Pane Vino, Massimo offered us complimentary ice cold limoncellos.
It was the combination of the food, the coziness of the tavern during a week of natural disasters, and Massimo’s charm and skill that created an exceptional dining experience in the Dorsoduro neighborhood of Venice. I can’t wait to return. Calle Lunga San Barnaba, 2861. Tel: +39-041- 241-0873. pane-vino-e-san-daniele-san-barnaba.business.site
LA CARAVELLA
Located within the stunning Hotel Saturnia, and on one of the more fashionable promenades in Venice, Via XXII Marzo, La Caravella is an excellent choice for fine dining. Entering the restaurant is like stepping into a vintage sailing vessel. The wood paneling and lighting is warm and inviting, but there’s also a gorgeous outdoor garden in the back when the weather is nice.
Sea Selection at Caravella
Photo: La Caravella
This is first class service without being fussy or pretentious, and the food matches the attentiveness. Upon sitting down your waiter will offer you a complimentary hors d’oeuvre. Most recently we were served a marinated sardine.
For starters I highly recommend their burrata. Here’s an example of a very simple dish that’s transformed into a 5-star delight using the fresh local ingredients that are served in a stunning way. Burrata has an outer shell of mozzarella but inside is your reward, stracciatella and cream, which creates a luxurious texture. Surrounded by fresh crunchy carrots and zucchini resting in a cold tomato soup and topped with daterini (tomato) confit and basil, this dish is a standout.
Another starter I recommend is their sea selection Caravella style which is comprised of sea-bass, scampi in saor, stuffed squid, scallop, octopus, broccoli, pesto, salmon caviar, and soft pumpkin cream with ginger. It’s a true feast for your eyes and your taste buds.
We’ve also enjoyed their spider crab with a lemon infused emulsion and parsley mousse, and the pumpkin and goat cheese pie on Parmigiano Reggiano cream with black truffle flakes.
For mains try their braised port cheeks, which are fork tender, and their savory and sweet lacquered duck breast with orange caramel. Both entrees are deliciously decadent.
La Caravella is a dependable Venetian classic that offers seasonally inspired and innovative recipes. Via XXII Marzo 2399. Tel: +39-041-520 -8901. www.restaurantlacaravella.com
