BARAFUNDLE BAY, PEMBROKESHIRE, WALES
Barafundle Bay, part of southwest Wales’ Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, is a revelation—all the more so for the process of arriving there. As you approach by car, rolling countryside turns more dramatic, sheer and craggy cliffs dropping precipitously to the sea. Heading off the main road, drive down to Stackpole Estate, a National Trust site and part of the national coastal walking path. Set off on a long dirt track through this now-deserted estate, perhaps noticing a couple behind you carried along swiftly by their excited dog and a pair of elderly walkers leaning on canes and walking sticks. Let them get far ahead as you stand admiring the deeply-striped cliffs on the cove to your left, the bright emerald fields surrounding you. Ascending, the dirt track disappears and you’re in open green fields, the pastures backed by rolling hills and the shimmering bay below, ringed by rocky cliffs. A few more minutes and you’re standing above Barafundle Bay. A fairly steep flight of steps brings you down to the sand. It’s been consistently voted one of Britain’s best by whomever votes on these things, and it’s easy to see why: it’s a luxuriant curve of sand, topped by dunes and grasses on hills that make it feel immensely private. The long stretch of cliff known as Stackpole Head sticks straight into the sea like an arm. A little boulder sits jauntily offshore. The waves crash against the smooth sand. Your company here? Twelve people, four dogs, and a visual overdose of beauty. www.visitwales.com
—Rich Rubin
HERRING COVE, PROVINCETOWN, MASSACHUSETTS
Whether by the misty pastels of dawn, the glare of high noon, or the golden light of twilight, a pilgrimage to Herring Cove, where earth and water and sky merge, is to experience the sublime essence of Cape Cod. By mid-morning, a stream of bicycles flows through Provincetown’s narrow streets merging into a human stream pedaling toward the promise of sun, sand, and sea. You’ll know you’ve arrived by the hundreds of bicycles chained to the split-rail fence on the roadside. Lock your bike and follow the sandy trails (watch out for poison ivy) across the marsh flats to the beach. Lesbians generally encamp nearer the parking lot to the north, while the guys string out in clusters to the south, either on the pebbly beach or in strategic lookouts among the grasses at the dune crests. Though the rangers, who occasionally make morality raids, do not sanction nudity, bathing attire is rarely bothered with, especially the farther south one wanders. Remember, there’s not an iota of shade, so prudently wear a hat, bring a beach umbrella or shade tent, and plenty to drink. The placid cove water is nippy, but on a warm day you’ll dare the invigorating plunge. For a less chilly dip, shuck your suit (if you haven‘t already) and wallow through the shallows of the tidal marsh where there’s birds and crabs and frogs, and oftentimes a willing man or two. If you’re up to it, walk all the way to the lighthouse at the tip of the spiraling landmass, and watch the sun set into the water. www.provincetowntourismoffice.org
—Bill Strubbe
Hanalei Bay, Kauai, Hawaii
PUNTA DEL ESTE, URUGUAY
Upscale travelers in North America might head to places like the Hamptons in the summer, but in South America, Punta del Este is among the top picks for well-to-do sun seekers, especially from neighboring Argentina and Brazil. Even people from Europe are finding this an increasingly enticing destination, thanks to its sophisticated vibe and growing array of luxury boutique hotels. Located on the southern tip of Uruguay, Punta del Este has only a few thousand year-round residents, but during the warmer months (November through March), the population swells with nearly half a million visitors. There are numerous public beaches, although probably the most photographed is the area around Parada 4 at Brava Beach, where a gigantic sculpture of a hand, called Monumento al Ahogado (Monument to the Drowned) or simply La Mano (the hand), appears to rise out of the sand. Gay vacationers are likely to head to Chihuahua beach, which has a clothing-optional section that attracts travelers of every orientation. When it comes to lodging, skip the large-scale chains and focus on the cool boutique hotels, including Awa (www.awahotel.com), a contemporary and cheery 48-room property just five blocks from the beach, or La Posada del Faro (www.posadadelfaro.com), a 15-room luxury guesthouse in the quieter town of José Ignacio. Nearby are two stunning properties with the same owner: Playa Vik José Ignacio, a stylish dream on the town’s tiny beach, and Estancia Vik (www.vikretreats.com), a gorgeous luxury ranch set on rolling hills. Also getting good reviews is the Fasano Las Piedras, the first hotel outside Brazil run by the chic, São Paulo-based Fasano company. www.visit-uruguay.com
—Mark Chesnut
IPANEMA BEACH, RIO DE JANEIRO, BRAZIL
When it comes to legendary beaches, it’s hard to compete with South America’s original jet-set destination: Rio de Janeiro. There are several gay beaches within the city limits, but Ipanema is the trendiest. Located near the street called Farme de Amoedo, Ipanama’s biggest gay beach is easy to find, thanks to the rainbow flags flown by the vendors selling food and drinks near- by. Sundays are especially popular, when sections of the road become the domain of well-tanned pedestrians—but any day of the week during the sum- mer months is an ideal time to slip on your tiniest bikini (Cariocas, after all, don’t bother with those bulky, unflattering board shorts—it’s all about showing off here). Rent a beach chair and umbrella, order a caipirinha, and you’re all set. The cute guys and girls from Ipanema aren’t the only eye-catching sights; you’ll also have Rio’s dramatic, mountainous scenery as the perfect backdrop. If you need some variety, head to Coqueirão, near lifeguard station Posto 9, another Ipanema beach area popular with gay sun worshippers, although it’s more mixed with heterosexuals as well. Regardless of which part of Ipanema you choose, you’ll be just a few blocks from an array of restaurants, gay bars, shopping, and stylish accommodations. Among the hottest new hotels is the Fasano (www.fasano.com.br), the Rio branch of one of São Paulo’s best boutique brands, where you can indulge in Philippe Starck-designed ambiance (the rooftop infinity pool is so gorgeous you might have to push yourself to get to the beach). Also recommended is the Hotel Marina All Suites (www.marinaallsuites.com.br), which has a cool restaurant, Bar d’Hôtel, that’s a great venue for cocktails. www.rcvb.com
—Mark Chesnut
IL BUCO, OSTIA, ROME, ITALY
Should you overdose on must-see attractions like the Colosseum and the Vatican, schedule some rest and recuperation on Rome’s gay beach and check out some real-life Roman gods and goddesses. Situated south of Rome’s Fiumicino airport, the neighborhood of Ostia has a bellissima little gay beach known as Il Buco. Meaning “the hole,” you’ll find this free public beach flanked by a pair of beach kiosks, Settimo Cielo and Mediterranea, along the coastal road between Lido di Ostia and Torvaianica. This entire area is part of the Capocotta Nature Reserve so, in spite of the proximity to Rome, it’s a surprisingly peaceful and semi-remote spot. There used to be a charming and gay-friendly rustic beach bar and restaurant at Settimo Cielo serving drinks and simple, delicious Italian food like spaghetti vongole—but it was destroyed by severe storms in 2008. A reconstruction project is in the pipeline, but even without this amenity Il Buco beach is popular with stocky Roman bears, handsome tanned young Italians, and perhaps a fighter pilot or two from the nearby Pratica di Mare Air Force Base. The dunes and bushes behind the beach can also be popular, and are some- times frequented by rentboys. Although it’s possible to reach Il Buco by public transport (take a metro train from Rome’s Piramide station to Ostia, then continue via local bus), I’d recommend you hire a scooter or car and embrace la dolce vita. www.rome.info
—Stuart Haggas
SILVER STRAND STATE BEACH, SAN DIEGO, CALIFORNIA
Silver Strand State Beach in San Diego is a sliver of beach that stretches from Coronado Island to Imperial Beach. Far from the throngs of skaters, surfers, and tourists found at San Diego’s more famous coast-lines, Silver Strand is a destination for those seeking a quieter and more relaxing beach experience. In addition to overnight RV camping opportunities, along with picnic areas and shower facilities, Silver Strand offers an idyllic setting for a leisurely ride along the Golden Coast. To the east are Glorietta and San Diego Bays, and to the west is the vastness of the Pacific Ocean. The ocean side of the strand features 2.5 miles of coastline trimmed with silver shells from which the beach draws its name, while the bay side (reached via three underground pedestrian tunnels from the ocean side) features warmer and smoother waters more suited for sports. The nearby world-famous hotel makes for a wonderful starting point to a Silver Strand excursion on foot or bike. Bicycles are available for rent year-round (weather permitting) on the boardwalk at the Hotel del Coronado (Tel: 619-917-3282). The 17- mile round-trip tour from the hotel to Imperial Beach along Silver Strand will take you around two hours to complete. All rentals include helmets and a lock. Other recreational activities include camping, surfing, swimming, body boarding, jet skiing, sailing, and water skiing, as well as fishing and beach volleyball. If you’re lucky, you might also catch sight of Navy SEALS in training, as well as other, more predictable wildlife. www.sandiego.org
—Joseph Schmitt
TEL AVIV, ISRAEL
With major expansion and face-lift projects completed and restaurants, bars, and shops enlivening its route, the heart and soul of Tel Aviv is where concrete converges with the kilometers of sandy beaches. If you were to park your tush on a bench for a full week on this vibrant promenade stretching from the old north port—now a hub of shops and cafés—to picturesque Jaffa in the south, just about every person in Tel Aviv would eventually pass by. Octogenarians greet the morning with calisthenics, businessmen take a lunch break, kids skateboard with reckless abandon, clutches of teens preen, evening joggers jog, and homoim are checking each other out. All along the beach esplanade, the city municipality provides lifeguards, changing and toilet facilities, showers, and covered shade areas to escape the harsh sun. Deck chairs and umbrellas are available for hire, as are wind surfing and water sports equipment. The decidedly gay gathering spot for both sexes—though men outnumber the gals—is a narrow strip of sand directly below the steep cliffs of Atzmout Park (a major cruising site; next to the Hilton Hotel.) Frankly, most everyone in Tel Aviv seems gay, but those with a discerning eye will readily spot groups sunning and chatting, the guys strutting about in their packed, skimpy Speedos. Israeli’s love to play matcot (paddle ball), the penetrating tock-tock of the ball bouncing off wooden paddles competing with the surf as the inescapable soundscape to the sunny, animated scene. www.goisrael.com
—Bill Strubbe
Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro
DUNE BEACH, TORRE DEL LAGO, ITALY
Natural and casual La Lecciona, a free public beach backed by a pine forest between Torre del Lago and Viareggio on Italy’s beautiful Versilia Riviera, has attracted discreet gay Italians since the 1970s. Today, this area is Italy’s favourite gay summer destination, thanks in part to pioneering gay nightclub Mama Mia, which opened on Torre del Lago’s beachfront promenade in 1999. Mama’s gay family grew with the opening of Mama Beach, Italy’s first LGBT beach. Having recently been renewed and renamed Dune Beach, this full-service beach for gays, lesbians, and their friends proudly flies rainbow flags, while facilities include sun loungers, parasols, beach huts for showering and changing, a kiosk serving drinks and light lunches, and a beach-volleyball court for the athletically minded. Attracting a stylish and predominantly Italian crowd, you should expect hot and sexy model-fit bodies and lots of D&G, Prada, and Diesel swimwear. As well as donning your own designer swimwear and shades, learn- ing a few choice words of Italian would be advantageous. Although the official season runs May to September, it’s at its busiest on week- ends in July and August when there are regular beach happenings such as foam parties, DJ sets, and shows by popular Italian drag queens like La Wanda Gastrica. There’s also a full season of parties and pageants, and it’s worth checking whether it is Bear Weekend, Les-week, Mister Travel Gay, Miss Drag Queen Italia, or Miss Trans Italia, and book accordingly! The town of Torre del Lago is a cycle ride away from the beach clubs and discos, and here you’ll find several charming gay-run guesthouses. www.friendlyversilia.it
—Stuart Haggas
ROBIN HOOD’S BAY, YORKSHIRE, ENGLAND
There’s no evidence to indicate that Robin Hood ever visited Robin Hood’s Bay. In fact, no one seems to know where this lovely Yorkshire village and surrounding beach got their name. No matter, though, it’s still as pretty a day trip (or weekend sojourn) as you could hope to take. Walk down the narrow lanes of this fishing village cum tourist destination, as they lead straight from the village to the rocky coastline. Jagged cliffs surround the curve of beach, the evocative village towers above it, and the North Sea stretches endlessly into the distance. Part of the Heritage Coast of the North York Moors National Park, the beach at Robin Hood’s Bay is one of several village beaches that are connected at low tide, so that you can walk all the way along the beach to neigh- boring villages such as Ravenscar. With its chilly waters and often- cloudy skies, this is not a beach for swimming and tanning. Rather, it’s a photographer’s and scenery-gulper’s delight: the centuries-old houses and byways of the village rising behind, the craggy coast filled with Jurassic fossils and roiling gray waters, the beachcombing and strolling. Walking on the beach here is like stepping into the history and pre-history books, or, more appropriately, the ancient legends combined with some modern-day pirate stories from this isolated smuggler’s cove. www.yorkshire.com
—Rich Rubin
