Chiang Mai, nestled amidst the jungle-drenched mountains of northern Thailand and shrouded in magic and mysticism, is a true gem.
The city used to be the capital of the ancient Lanna Kingdom and one of the most important trade stops in the region. Today it is regarded as the cultural and spiritual capital of Thailand. While Bangkok will make your head spin with its vibrant nightlife, ultra-modern skyline, and never-ending traffic, Chiang Mai is all about slowing down and looking within. With stunning Buddhist temples on every corner, narrow streets, and lush greenery, youโd be forgiven for thinking youโve entered an altogether different time. There is simply nowhere else like it.
I fell in love with Chiang Mai on my very first visit. Initially, I wasย drawn to the city because of its reputation as a digital nomad capital of the world. I had just embarked on my own nomadic adventure and I wanted to find out what all the hype was about. I expected trendy cafes, coworking spaces, and affordable accommodation. I found all that, and much more. What I hadnโt expected was just how uniquely beautiful the city would be, and how much of a spell it would cast over me, almost immediately after my arrival.
White Buddha Statue in Pai, Thailand (Photo by Amitand Yoli)
The breathtaking Old Town remains intact, surrounded by fortified walls and a network of canals. The neighborhoods outside the city walls are diverse and exciting, with shopping malls, cafes, a huge university campus, and plenty of accommodation, which range from basic and very affordable to plush and exclusive. Regardless of whether you plan to stay for just a few days or make Chiang Mai your temporary home base, the options are countless.
With its rich cultural scene and a constant flow of creatives and travelersย from all over the world, Chiang Mai is also a very queer-friendly place. The gay scene here is far less ostentatious than in Bangkok, but with a growing number of LGBTQ expats calling the city their home, there are exciting and innovative events taking place all the time. With choices ranging from poetry readings and open mic nights to drag shows and ecstatic dance parties in the jungle, getting bored is never an option here.
WHERE TO STAY
If youโre considering Chiang Mai for a short city break, youโll find an array of gorgeous hotels and guesthouses to choose from. For a fully immersive experience, you canโt go wrong with Club One Seven, the cityโs only hotel catering specifically to gay men. The place boasts private rooms and a dormitory, with nightly prices starting at as little as $30. In addition, youโll be able to enjoy an onsite sauna, swimming pool, and gym, as well as special events which take place here several times a month. If youโre looking for a more peaceful and romantic setting, the Sala Lanna, situated on the banks of the Mae Ping River, is a great option. The spacious rooms, stunning river views and luxurious facilities make this a great spot for a romantic getaway, especially seeing that the Old Town is just a short drive away.
If you prefer to stay within the ancient city walls, the beautiful Phra Singh Villageโs location just across the road from the majestic Wat Phra Singh Temple cannot be beaten. Mixing modern luxury and traditional Thai elements, this place will make you feel very spoiled. For those looking for tranquility and a total rejuvenation for body and soul, head to the Four Sea- sons Resort. Located about an hourโs drive from Chiang Maiโs center, this stunning place is surrounded by rice paddies, giving off that incredibly photogenic Bali vibe. This resort offers a truly exclusive experience, with pri- vate villas, butler service, and a wide range of treatments and unique offer- ings, from yoga and massage to some of Thailandโs finest dining.
Wat Phra Singh Temple (Photo by Pikoso.kz)
With stunning Buddhist temples on every corner, narrow streets, and lush greenery, youโd beย forgiven for thinking youโve entered an altogether different time. There is simply nowhere else like Chiang Mai.
I first came to Chiang Mai with the idea of staying for a week, ended up staying for more than a month, and then returned just a few months later. Such is the irresistible pull of this city, with most of the visitors I met here coming back, again and again. If youโre thinking of staying longer, finding monthly rentals should prove incredibly easy. Most expats, digital nomads, and creatives tend to stay in the Nimman area, a neighborhood situated between the Old Town and the universi- ty campus. The many narrow streets here play host to some fabulous cafes and eateries, as well as a huge market, artisanal boutiques, and the ultra-modern Maya shopping mall. Iโm not normally much of a mall goer, but this place was one of my favorite stops during my time in Chiang Mai. Thereโs a great food hall here, with delicious and diverse cuisine at unbelievably low prices. On the top floor youโll find a large coworking space with views over the city and the surrounding mountains, as well as a cinema, which regularly shows all the latest English language movies.
The way I went about finding an apartment in Nimman was by exploring the area on foot and walking into the many elegant condos which are dotted around, most of which offer monthly rentals and a friendly staffย who are happy to let you view available apartments right away.
CULTURAL RICHES
Many travelers come to Chiang Mai seeking to escape the hustle and bustle of Bangkok, or the party scene of island life. The city has many museums featur- ing impressive art collections, with everything from local folklore to whimsical modern art. Most of these are situated within the walls of the Old Town, mak- ing it easy to visit more than one in a single day. The Chiang Mai National Museum is a good place to start. Here youโll learn all about the regionโs rich history, with special emphasis on the Lanna Kingdom. Museum of World Insects and Natural Wonders is another must-see. This privately owned museum is world-renowned for its collection of insects, displayed alongside modern art. A less unsettling but equally impressive experience is to visit Art in Paradise, a huge 3D art museum, which offers visitors over 130 interactive exhibits.To find out more about the tribes and traditions of the region, visit The Lanna Folklife Museum and The Highland People Discovery Museumโ both are unforgettable.
As soon as I arrived in Chiang Mai for the first time, I was struck by just how many opulent temples there are in the city. Any one of them alone would have been a major draw in any other city, but here there are more than 300 to choose from, each offering something unique. Itโs hard to pick just a few to recommend. The best thing to do is to wander around the city and get lost in its mystical beauty. There are, however, several temples which simply cannot be missed. The most famous of these is the
Mai Doi Suthep, which sits rather majestically on top of a mountain,ย overlooking the city and offering some breath-taking views. To reach it, youโll need to drive up a steep, winding road. You may opt to ride up in a rented scooter, if you feel confident enough, otherwise private taxis and local songthaews (a sort of pick-up bus) are also easily available. Once atop, youโll still need to climb 309 steps, but itโll all be worth it once you set eyes on the golden structure and the surrounding vistas.
Lantern Festival in Chiang Ma (Photo by anek.soowannaphoom)
Back in the Old Town, perhaps the most spectacular of all its temples is the Wat Phra Singh. Its golden walls glistening in the sun are quite the sight to behold, and the massive grounds house some beautiful gardens and numerous stupas and pagodas. Many of the cityโs temples are set amidst lush green spaces, with ancient trees offering much-needed relief from the sweltering Thai heat.
A personal favorite of mine is the Wat Lok Moli temple. Situated on the north edge of the Old Town, just beyond its walls, this awe-inspiring place dates back to the 14th century, and due to its location, slightly off the usual tourist trail, it retains a very local and somehow more spiritual ambience. Donโt miss the chance to get blessed by one of the monks, and if youโre lucky enough to be visiting in November, make sure to take part in the world-famous Loy Krathong Festival, during which thousands of lanterns light up the night sky. While this tradition is observed throughout Thailand, there is no place like Chiang Mai to experience it. In addition to the lanterns, the Mae Ping River and the cityโs canals come alive with lotus-shaped baskets, flowers, and candles, which are set on the water to appease the deities and to guarantee peace and good fortune. Chiang Mai and the surrounding region is the only place where youโll see both spectacles simultaneously, something I am so grateful to have experienced.
The Famous Sunday Night Market at Chiang Mai’s Thapae (Photo by Kwannokprom)
Like elsewhere in Thailand, daytime temperatures in Chiang Mai tend to soar, especially during the dry season, which generally lasts between November and March. For this reason, the city truly comes to life afterย dark. Street food vendors and night markets is where you can really sample the authentic flavors and mingle with the locals. As the sun sets over the mountains, the streets fill with music, colors, and mouthwatering aromas. There is a number of night markets to choose from, depending on what youโre after and what night of the week it is. Perhaps the most popular option is the Night Bazaar, on the intersection of Chang Khlan and Loi Khro Road, which pops up nightly from around 5 P.M. Another daily market, with great food and local artisanal produce is the Ton Lam Yai Market, situated on the banks of the river. Unlike other markets, this one stays open all day, making it a lovely place for an early morning stroll, before the dayโs heat becomes too much to handle.
Of all the street markets, I especially love visiting the weekend ones. Thereโs something festive about these, and the goods on offer tend to be more on the artisanal side, with delicious food, live music, and a general sense of merriment. On Saturdays, head to the Wua Lai Walking Street, and on Sunday visit the Tha Pae Sunday Walking Street, which is perhaps the busiest and most spectacular of the night markets. Outside of the Old Town, youโll find numerous smaller markets and an endless array of street food options every night of the week. While less glamorous, these are where true locals hang out and prices are also significantly lower.
While itโs entirely possible to eat street food every night, thereโs also a huge variety of fantastic restaurants, offering some of the best food Iโve ever had. Naturally, Thailand in general is world renowned for its irresistible food, but I can honestly say that Chiang Mai elevates the cuisine game even higher. The incredible variety of local herbs and spices, the rich tradition of sacred recipes from the mountain tribes, and the influences of neighboring Laos and Myanmar all conspire to make Chiang Maiโs culinary scene a true heaven for the senses.
As a vegan, I also found the city to be one of the most plant-based-friendly destinations Iโve ever visited. Among my absolute top spots (although itโs very hard to narrow it down), are the aptly named Good- souls Kitchen, with its vast menu offering both Thai and western dishes, all cooked to perfection; Reform Kafe, a beautiful plant-based restaurant and garden and the ideal place for a romantic dinner for two; and for the best curries in town, the hidden gem that is the Bodhi Tree Cafรฉ.
THE GAY SCENE AND ENTERTAINMENT
While certainly a queer-friendly city, Chiang Mai is far less exciting as a gay destination than Bangkok. Chiang Mai offers something entirely different. Thereโs a true sense of community here, with both locals and expats coming together to express themselves through art and performance in a wonderfully free and unstructured way. While there are some core LGBTQ+ venues, the true scene is elusiveโyouโre bound to find random queer nights of comedy, poetry, and music popping up in cafes, bars, and restaurants around the city. Keep your eyes open for posters and fliers, while also visiting the Facebook page Chiang Mai Nightlife for regular updates on events.
Chiang Mai Pride 2019 (Photo by David Ryo)
Among Chiang Maiโs most popular queer venues are the two drag and cabaret bars: 6ixcret Bar and Ram Bar. Both are located near the Night Bazaar, close to the river and the unofficial gay area, which includes a number of smaller queer-friendly bars. 6ixcret Bar prides itself as being a safe space for everyone in the queer community, and its acclaimed nightly drag shows attract vast crowds; arrive before 9 P.M. to secure a seating spot. Similarly, Ram Bar provides a highly entertaining drag show every night of the week, with both bars closing around midnight.
Another option for a night out is Adamโs Apple Club, located in theย north part of the city. This venue, which also closes at midnight is famous for its go-go dancers and drag shows. The bar here tends to be more expensive than the riverside bars, but itโs a nice option for those seeking to let their hair down and have some frivolous fun.
One of the newest and most exciting queer venues is the True Love Cafรฉ. Opened in 2023, the place reflects all the diversity and creativity of Chiang Maiโs growing LGBTQ+ scene. A community bar and creative space, TLC hosts a variety of nights: creative arts showcase, WERKshops, open mic and karaoke, dance parties, themed balls, and more. In addition, the bar serves up some delicious cocktails and snacks, all at reasonable prices.
If youโre looking to meet local guys and enjoy a relaxing spa and mas- sage, the House of Male is a popular place situated in the heart of the city and features a bar, a garden, and very friendly staff.
REMOTE WORK
As I was initially lured by Chiang Mai because of its reputation as a digital nomad hotspot, itโs only fair that I should talk about my experience of working remotely while living in the city. Whether you are a digital nomad or just want to do a little bit of work in between having a great time, Chiang Mai is certainly a great place for it. Thereโs an entire com- munity of nomads here, so if you plan on staying for a while and want to expand your network of friends and likeminded entrepreneurs, the coworking spaces might be good points of call. Again, the most popular ones are located in Ninnman: Yellow Coworking Space and Nim Space are both open 24-hours, offering communal working spaces and hot desks, private offices, conference rooms, and more for affordable prices.
If youโre staying in the Old Town, the Punspace Tha Phae Gate might be a better fit. This converted warehouse is large and full of light, with a huge coffee shop on the ground floor and a quiet, side street location.
Coworking spaces are great, especially if youโre running a business or have important online meetings. I, however, opted to work mostly in the many charming coffee shops Chiang Mai has to offer. My absolute favourite one has to be My Secret Cafรฉ in Town; this place is a real treasure. Situated in a quiet back street, by the side of an ancient temple, this gem has it all: delicious food and beverages, lovely staff, beautiful plants, and cosy seating. In Ninnman, I would also pass hours at Roastniyom Cafรฉ, although there are many other good options in this area.
AROUND THE CITY
One of the many great things about Chiang Mai is its location, and the mountains which surround it offer endless opportunities for adventure. If youโre staying for longer than a few days, you simply must make a trip to the village of Pai, situated deep in the mountains, about an hour-and-a-halfโs drive from the city. The best way to reach it is by privately operated minivan service, although many also attempt it on a moped or motorbike. The road to Pai is infamously challenging, with more than 700 sharp curves and many mountainous stretches. Once you reach your destination though, youโll see just why so many people choose to make the trip.
Nestled in a large valley, this bohemian haven is picturesque and beautiful, with tons of activities to enjoy. In the evening, take a stroll down Walking Street, with its many hippie shops, bars, and restaurants, while during the day you rent a scooter and visit one of the countless breathtaking waterfalls and viewing points around the town. This is also the place to come if you want to experience the legendary jungle raves, which are organized regularly, particu- larly in high season, and are great fun. Thereโs always a somewhat spiritual dimension to partying in Pai where ecstatic dances and events combining liveย DJ sets with meditation, chants and improv are all part of the scene.
Thanin Food Market (Photo by Steve Allen)
When planning your trip, be aware of the seasons which can greatly alter your experience. The most popular months for visiting Chiang Mai are November through February. This is Thailandโs dry and hot season and the busiest in terms of tourists.
Bear in mind that the period from January to the end of March is known as the smoky season. Thick smoke and smog from wildfires and manmade fires from the mountains, as well as from neighboring Laos and Myanmar, engulf the city making the air quality dangerous. If possible, do not visit Chiang Mai during this time.
The rainy season is between May and October. During these months, it rains most days, but you can still enjoy sunshine, especially in the mornings. Afternoons and evenings tend to get rainy and thundery. The advantages of visiting during rainy season are fewer tourists and more attractive prices.
CHIANG MAI RESOURCES
INFORMATION
For general tips on restaurants, events, and cultural happenings, visit chiangmaicitylife.com
For nightlife, including queer events, go toย facebook.com/groups/cnx.nightlife
LODGING
Club One Seven โข Guesthouse, sauna, and gym in the heart of the city catering to gay men. Very affordable rates. 385/2 Charoen Prathet Rd, Tam- bon. Tel. +66-61-375-7611. cluboneseven.net
Sala Lanna โข A boutique riverside hotel with a touch of luxury at reasonable prices. 49ย Charoenrat Road, Wat Gate, Mueang. Tel. +66-53-242-588. salahospitality.com/lanna
The Nimmanhaemin Area in Chiang Mai is Popular With Expats
The Nimmanhaemin Area inย Chiang Mai is Popular With Expatsย Phra Singh Village โข A stylish hotel with traditional touches, situated in the heart of the Old Town. Ideal for a romantic getaway. Phra Singh Village , No.5 Ratchamankha Rd alley 8. Tel.ย +66-97-920-9006. phrasinghvillage.com
Four Seasons Resort โข An exclusive resort nestled among rice fields, offering private villas, butler service and a wide range of treatments for body and soul. About an hour away from the centre of Chiang Mai. 502 MOO 1, Mae Rim- Samoeng Old Road. Tel. +66-53-298-181. fourseasons.com/chiangmai
MARKETS
Night Bazaar โข A nightly market with food, clothes, art, and everything else you can imagine. Starts from 5 P. M. Located at the intersection of Chang Khlan and Loi Khro Road, Chiang Mai Old Town.
Ton Lam Yai Market โข A riverside market open during weekdays, specializing in flowers, local fruit, vegetables, and spices. Open 24 hours a day but best visited in the morning. Wichayanon Rd, Tambon.
Wua Lai Walking Street โข Saturday night market with street food, live music, crafts, and art. Gets rather busy but definitely worth a visit. Wua Lai Rd, Haiya Sub-district.
Tha Pae Sunday Walking Street โข Every Sunday from late afternoon until midnight, this incredible street market offers the best of local arts and crafts, delicious food and more. Not to be missed. Rachadamnoen Rd, Tambon Si Phum.
DINING
Goodsouls Kitchen โข A fabulous plant- based restaurant and cafรฉ serving westernย and Thai dishes, as well as incredible cakes.ย 52 Sinharat Rd Lane 3, Tambon Si Phum. Tel.ย +66-88-819-9669. goodsoulskitchen.com
Reform Kafe โข Delicious food in a gorgeous setting, with a garden and friendly staff. 1/4ย Soi 7, Sri Poom Road. Old Town. Tel. +66-93-182-8188. greentigerhouse.com
Bodhi Tree Cafรฉ โข Some of the best curries youโll have anywhere in Thailand. This place also organizes cooking classes. 11 Rachadamnoen Rd Soi 5. Tel. +66-85-708-4998.
Baan Landai โข A charming place with delicious traditional Thai cuisine, renowned as one of the best in the city. 252/13-14 Prapokklao Rd. Tel. +66-65-848-4464.
MUSEUMS
The Chiang Mai National Museum โข A great museum with exhibits highlighting the Lanna period. 451, Chang Phueak. Tel. +66-53-221-308. museumthailand.com
Museum of World Insects and Natural Wonders โข Sometimes unsettling but defi- nitely impressive collection of worldโs insects, with modern art thrown in for a good measure. 72 Siri Mangkalajarn Rd. Tel. +66-53-211-891.
Art in Paradise โข Reputedly one of the worldโs largest 3D museums, this one is great way to relax and enjoy some less cerebral exhibits. 58/8 Moo 1 Charoen Muang Rd. Tel. +66-98-660-0051.
The Lanna Folklife Museum โข Housed in a for- mer courthouse, this museum offers an impressive journey into the culture of North Thailand. Prapokkloa Rd, Tambon Si Phum. Tel. +66-53-217-793. cmocity.com/lanna-folklife-museum
The Highland People Discovery Museum โข A fascinating collection presenting the history and traditions of Thailandโs minority mountain tribes. 9 Chotana Rd, Chang Phueak. Tel. +66-53-210-872.
NIGHTLIFE
6ixcret Bar โข One of two famous drag bars, this is fun and rowdy entertainment. Night Bazar Tha Phae Road, Chang Khlan Sub- district. Tel. +66-98-298-3958.
Ram Bar โข A popular bar with live cabaret and drag shows. Gets very busy. Charoen Prathet Rd, Chang Khlan Sub-district. Tel.ย +66-92-496-3962.
Adamโs Apple Club โข Drag shows, go-go dancers and lots of local lads. Tambon Chang Phueak. Tel. +66-82-208-8292. adamsappleclub.com
True Love Cafรฉ โข A brand-new community bar and queer creative space with a ton of great events every week. Tha Phae Road, Night Bazaar. Tel. +66-52-005-243.
House of Male โข A popular gay sauna with friendly staff and a diverse clientele. A great place to meet local guys. , 84/5 Changpuak Rd. Tel. +66-53-894-133.
