But San Miguel still had a surprise up its sleeve. The city is a wryly coyote that loves mischievously playing with you. As someone who doesn’t drink, I had very low expectations for the Toyan Vinyard (Buenavista km 8, San Antonio, Tel: +52-415-152-7400. www.vinicolatoyan.com). I was pulled away from a sexy artist who cared about animals, and for what? To watch to a bunch of winos get tipsy on Merlot?
Little did I know that this was about to be the highlight of the trip. When we arrived at the vineyard, we were greeted by exquisite and pristine beauty. The eucalyptus-lined drive to the winery led way to rolling hills of grape vines with mountains rising high in the distance.
Our guides were Martha Molina and Martha Hernandez, as well as Mariposa,the winery’s resident dog. The grounds are complete with the vineyard, a small farm, a beautiful old Franciscan mission, and a theater. Martha opened up a door that lead to absolute blackness. Just like the grotto, something came over me that screamed go inside!We walked in, and you could immediately feel the cooler temperature. The pathway spiraled downwards into what looked like an abandoned mine. Dim blue lights illuminated stone sculptures of monks that lined the underground tunnel.
Painter Mario Oliva
When we reached the bottom, 50 feet below the surface, we could finally see what this space was. This was the cave where they stored the barrels of wine. It was such a serene and unreal space, but the real shock was what wewere about to see next. Behind the wine barrels, a massive underground tasting room had been carved out. Elaborate stone pillars, ornate sculptures, and fanciful ironworks, all underground… I felt like I was in Pirates of the Caribbean. It’s one of the most exquisite places I’ve ever seen. Our wines were paired with local cheeses, handmade papaya preserves, and spiced olives prepared right at the winery. The memory of that experience almost brings me to tears as I write this. The beauty of it, the kindness of our hosts, and those phenomenal spicy olives! It’s the kind of place that will stay with me forever.
The next morning it was time to fly home. As I waited for my plane inthe terminal, I was heartbroken. The people of San Miguel de Allende are friendly, loving, and talented. From the art to the food to the wine to the service, it all points to the same thing: this is a town that true travelers will absolutely love. San Miguel deserves its reputation as one of the best destinations in the world, and I am determined to return again.
