Join travel writer Emily Pennington as she explores the wonders of Lisbon, Portugal before taking off on a very idyllic cruise along the Douro River.
I’m sitting on my room’s private veranda as the warm breeze tosses a lock of hair across my cheek, cold beer in my hand, perfectly spiced chicken piri piri on my plate.
To my right are a series of gently rolling hillsides, cultivated with centuries-old vine yards that seem to stretch out into infinity. There’s a honeyed glow to my rural surroundings, as the sun begins to sink beyond Portugal’s Douro River Valley.
It was a welcome shift from my routine back in the states, where I’m often found slumped over a keyboard responding to emails. Something about drifting along a verdant ravine in a country rich with a thousand years of history captivated my senses in a way that domestic travel simply cannot.
The country’s rich history was evident from the moment my partner, Oliver, and I arrived at our first hotel, Green Heart Hostel (R. de Santa Marta 37. Tel. +351-938-949-019. hgreenheart.com), in central Lisbon, after schlepping our rolling suitcases onto the Metro and up and down several cobblestone streets. Word to the wise: even though Lisbon has an easy to navigate train system, avoid rolling bags, if you can, and save your wrists some strain.
Duoro river Wine Country (Photo by Emily Pennington)
Jetlagged after our red eye from the United States, we took a quick show er and challenged ourselves to a full day of strolling the town, if only to keep ourselves awake until 9 P.M.We took the advice of our hotel’s friendly receptionist and walked down the block for a savory brunch at Manifest (Rua da Sociedade Farmacêutica 31. instagram.com/manifest.lisbon). Before long, I was facing a steaming cappuccino and a plate piled high with Peking duck eggs benedict, complete with a toasted, open-face brioche bun. It was heav enly, sweet, fatty and salty, and it gave me the energy boost I needed for a day of walking around Portugal’s many avenues of 8th-century buildings.
Our first stop? Lisbon’s Castelo de São Jorge (R. de Santa Cruz do Castelo, Tel. +351-21-880-0620. castelodesaojorge.pt), which perches atop a wooded hill in the middle of the city. Now a museum filled with gardens and, if you look closely, peacocks, the castle boasts a wild history dating back to 200 BC, when the Romans first established a stronghold on the strategically-important site. We hiked up hundreds of stairs in narrow cobblestone alleyways until we were dripping with sweat at the ticket booth. Lisbon in the summer is hot and humid, and we promised ourselves that we’d treat ourselves to an ice cream on the long trek down.
Once inside, Oliver and I were able to stroll the remaining castle walls, nabbing fantastic views of the whole of Lisbon, which helped us get our bearings. Thrilled that the uphill portion of the day was now complete, we practically skipped downhill to the Lisbon Cathedral (Largo da Sé 1,Tel. +351-21-886-6752. sedelisboa.pt) and escaped the afternoon sun, marveling at its masterful columns and domes, which date to 1147. Still delirious from our wicked jetlag, we grabbed salads on our way back to the hotel at Honest Greens (R. Rodrigues Sampaio 52C. honestgreens.com), then promptly passed out the moment our heads touched our pillows.
Lisbon Cathedral (Photo by by Ecstk22)
To my right are a series of gently rolling hillsides, cultivated with centuries-old vineyards that seem to stretch out into infinity. There’s a honeyed glow to my rural surroundings, as the sun begins to sink beyond Portugal’s Douro River Valley.
Much more rested and ready for adventure, we set off the following morning for the National Tile Museum (R. Me. Deus 4, Tel. +351-21-810-0340. museudoazulejo.pt). The Portuguese take their tile making very, very seriously, often decorating entire facades of buildings or interiors of railroad stations in thousands of the colorful squares. Many of the tiles (azulejos) in the museum are still brilliantly colored, despite having been created in the 1500s. It was like an art and a his tory museum all in one.
We spent the afternoon wandering the narrow streets and alleyways of Castelo de São Jorge in Lisbon’s Alfama neighborhood, its oldest, popping into confectionary shops and art galleries at will before dashing over to dinner at a tiny restaurant that my friend, Karta, had recommended for dinner, Antikuario Cafe (Rua de São José 168. Tel. +351-21-353-2719. instagram.com/antikuariocafe)
Castelo de São Jorge in Lisbon (Photo by Ceative Cat Studio)
I had heard that the food in Portugal was excellent, but this was truly next level. We started off with a sauteed shrimp appetizer that contained a sauce so delicious, I found myself slurping the remains out of the bowl with my spoon. For the main course? A perfectly-roasted chicken dish with garlic cream sauce and spinach. It was easily one of the best meals of my life, and Oliver and I escaped paying just 60 euros total for a veritable feast and two beers.
At long last, it was time to perform the hotel shuffle to get ready for our Douro sailing with Viking River Cruises, so we packed up our belongings and transferred to the ultra-posh Corinthia Hotel (Avenida Columbano Bordalo Pinheiro 105. Tel. +351-21-723-6300. corinthia.com). Maria, a Viking tour guide, helped us board a massive motorcoach for an included excursion to the city’s impressive Maritime Museum (Praça do Império, Tel. +351-210-977-388. ccm.marinha.pt),set
inside the Jeronimos Monastery, an UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was here that I learned more about the Portuguese explorers I had scarcely thought about since middle school, realizing that this vibrant country was responsible for many more feats of exploration than I had ever imagined. I perused the museum’s model galleons and centuries-old artifacts, eager to board one of Viking’s custom-built longships and set sail along the Douro River.
But first, afternoon snacks were much needed. Following our guide’s advice, I slipped out of the museum and down the block for a special treat. Pastéis de Belém (R. de Belém 84 92. Tel. +351-21-363-7423. pasteisde belem.pt) has long been lauded as serving up the best pastel de nata (a flaky round pastry with rich vanilla custard in its center) in the country, and it had the lines down the block to prove it. Fearing we’d never get a table in a million years, Oliver and I took a paper packet of pasteles de nata to-go and positively gushed over them the whole drive back to the hotel.
Not wanting to miss out on the doleful Fado music I’d heard so much about in my Lisbon research, we spent our final night in the city wandering the streets of the hip Bairro Alto neighborhood, listening for the mournful cries of vocalists and the dexterous Portuguese guitarists who accompany them. After 20 minutes of strolling the steep hills, we found what we were looking for at Tasca da Tia Macheta (Travessa dos Fiéis de Deus 33. Tel. +351-961-339-696), which offered wallet-friendly a la carte pricing and phenomenal Fado performers in a low key atmosphere. I had the pork shank, served with its dinosaur-sized bone still attached, and left utterly sated.
Fado Singer (Photo by Emily Pennington)
An early wake up the next morning meant that we were finally on cruise time, and a Viking-chartered motorcoach transferred us to Porto, a three-hour drive north of Lisbon. On the way, we got to stop in the historic college town of Coimbra, an UNESCO World Heritage Site, for a short walking tour, a traditional Portuguese lunch of bacalhau, local wines, and, remarkably, even more evocative Fado music. More than the elegant exteriors of the Coimbra’s famed university, it was the extravagant, Baroque-style Joanina Library (Biblioteca Joanina, 3000-233 Coimbra. visit.uc.pt/pt/space-list/joanina) that wowed me, with its chinoiserie and more than sixty thousand books.
Joanina Library (Photo by Agsaz)
At this point, Oliver and I were beyond excited to board the small, 106-passenger ship that would be our home for the rest of the week. So, the moment we arrived in Porto, we excitedly hurried to our Veranda Stateroom and plopped our suitcases down on the bed to unpack. Though the custom-built longships that sail up and down the Douro River are smaller than the average Viking river cruiser (to gracefully navigate the river’s many locks), they are well-appointed with a spacious sun deck, a view-filled lounge that hosts live musicians and dance parties, a chic restaurant, and a small coffee bar with fruit and snacks.
I stood on the ship’s foremost deck and felt the cool breeze in my hair as we set sail from historic Porto, watching green hills and ancient estates float by effortlessly. My partner and I toasted the trip at a celebratory cast off dinner, chowing down on local fresh seafood followed by a hearty slice of berry cheesecake for dessert.
One of the remarkable things about the Douro River, unlike other European Rivers available for cruising (like the Rhine), is that it doesn’t have any factory-ridden industrial areas, so travelers are simply breezing past historic villages and vintage vineyards for the entirety of this week-long journey.
I woke the first morning of the cruise to find that, much to my surprise, our ship was going up a lock, concrete walling us in on both sides as we ascended safely to the river’s upper portion. It was a shocking sight to open my curtains to a sudden view of gray, mottled walls. But, by the time I had dressed and made it down to breakfast, we were back on the gorgeous, sunny Douro, and I was able to order scrambled eggs and French toast with berries before setting out on the day’s included excursion to the luxurious Mateus Palace (Casa de Mateus, Tel. +351-259- 323-121. casademateus.pt).
Built in the early 1700s, Casa de Mateusis considered one of the finest examples of a Baroque-style home in all of Portugal, filled with fine furnishings from across the globe, including an antique harpsichord. After a short tour of the palace interior, which was chock-full of stunning antiques from China and India, our group was set loose to stroll the site’s lavish gardens and vineyards for an hour before returning to the motor coach for a port tasting and cellar tour at the Sandeman winery (sandeman.com) at Quinta de Seixo.
Cruise Excursion to Charming Lamego (Photo by Emily Pennington)
We also learned that the wine growing history of the Douro River region is fascinating, with grapes being harvested and fermented in the region since the 1200s. Unfortunately, disaster struck the entire area in the 1860s and 1870s, when Phylloxera, a deadly vine louse, made its way over from the Americas, nearly destroying the entire crop of grapes. Blessedly, the region has since recovered, thanks to dedicated wine growers who figured out that if they graft the bug-resistant roots of American grapes onto the Portuguese varietals, the plants can survive the nasty pests. As a result, the area’s heirloom grapes have bounced back, and travelers can enjoy a wide variety of vintages found nowhere else.
These deep historical insights, paired with a culture steeped in fine food and wine beset my entire week on the Douro. Our routine aboard the Viking cruise went something like this: wake up, indulge in a fabulous breakfast, and learn about the centuries-old history of the region from people who are friendly, inviting, hard-working, and eager to share their culture. Then, we’d finish it all off with a filling Portuguese-style dinner, featuring dishes I’d never sampled before (like caldo verde soup or grilled octopus), followed by a couple of glasses of locally-sourced wine before a live music or a DJ in the lounge before bedtime.
My second day on the cruise, I chose an optional add-on excursion up to the charming hilltop town of Marialva, feasting on a sustainable, locally-sourced lunch of salad, chocolate cake, and bacalhau à brás, a popular local dish consisting of baked potatoes, codfish, and eggs, much like a creamy fish casserole. Afterwards, we sauntered up to the ruins of the medieval Marialva Castle, where our guide, a local from the small village named Carlos, took us inside a gorgeous old church with an elaborately-carved wooden altarpiece. The chapel had been in use for so long that a large divot had been worn into its most central stone tile, from parishioners kneeling to pray. The age-old history of Portugal never ceased to astound me.
Once back on the boat, we supped on a buffet-style dinner, affectionately called “A Taste of Portugal,” which offered sliced Iberian ham, marinated grilled vegetables, sardines with lemon oil, arroz de tomate, roast duck, and Mariniere-style black mussels. It was a delightfully festive occasion, with the ship’s crew dressing in colorful, traditional garments to mark the occasion. Since we were taking a bus into Spain’s historic town of Salamanca the following day, the ship surprised us with a feisty Flamenco show after dinner in the lounge, featuring the energetic stylings of local dance troupe, Solearte (instagram.com/solearte_baileflamenco).
Cruise Excursion to Salamanca, Spain (Photo by Saiko3p)
Though it took a nearly two-hour bus ride to get there, Salamanca was, by far, my favorite stopover of the entire cruise, because of its vibrant, historic downtown, its fabulous museums, and its golden-hued sandstone buildings that seemed to glow whenever the sunlight touched them. After a Viking-supported stroll around the stunning city’s university district and a visit to its ornate, Gothic-style cathedral, cruise guests were allowed some free time to explore at will.
Oliver and I popped into Empanadas Malvón (R. Mayor 11, Tel. +34- 923-20-33-60. malvon.es) on the town’s main drag for a quick and simple on the-go lunch before traipsing off to lose ourselves in the town’s art and history. A must-see on any visit to the Spanish jewel of Salamanca is Casa Lis, The Joanina Library Museo de Art Nouveau y Art Déco (Calle Gibraltar, 14. Tel. +34-923- 12-14-25. museocasalis.org). It’s home to a huge collection of exquisitely-designed paintings, sculptures, and glassworks from the promiscuous and nature-inspired Art Nouveau era. Plus, the entire museum is set inside an incredible, restored historic home with loads of beautiful stained glass skylights.
The next afternoon, we spent exploring the ancient pilgrimage site, Sanctuary of Our Lady of Remedies, in the charming hillside village of Lamego. Legend has it that this striking cathedral can heal ailments of all sorts, or help ensure that pregnant women endure a safe childbirth. It’s set atop Mount St. Stephen, with commanding views of tree-topped highlands in every direction. After our guided tour, we strolled down the site’s notorious 686 steps, marveling at our bird’s eye view of the city’s coral-tinted roofs before finding a hole-in-the-wall café to grab espressos and more pasteles de nata. It was heaven.
By the time we returned to Porto (the ship sails up and down the Douro, ending at the same point where it started), I was nothing but a blur of wine facts and castle dust. However, because we only had one full day to explore this drop-dead gorgeous city, we woke up early and met up with Buddy Wakefield, a queer slam poet extraordinaire and friend of mine from Los Angeles who had recently relocated to Portugal full-time. We met him on the crowded steps of the Sé do Porto cathedral, and he quickly hurried us past the tourist throngs to his favorite local restaurant, Conga (R. do Bonjardim 318. Tel. +351-22- 200-0113), where people line up as early as 11 A.M. for legendary bifanas, or marinated pork sandwiches.
Pasteles de Nata (Photo by Aleksandrs Samuilovs)
Afterwards, I asked him how the queer scene was in such an overtly Catholic place, and he said that though the gay bars may not be all that crowded, in his three years in Portugal, he’s found them to be welcoming and full of allies.
With Buddy as our guide, we spent the day leisurely strolling for miles, peeking inside the famous São Bento Train Station that’s deco rated with over 20,000 handmade Portuguese tiles; visiting Livraria Lello (R. das Carmelitas 144 Tel. +351-22-200-2037. livrarialello.pt), an elegant, 18th-century bookstore first made famous by Harry Potter that’s now considered the most beautiful in the world; and wandering around Ribeira Square, which hosts loads of up-and-coming visual artists and street performers. We cooled ourselves from the midday heat with a scoop of gelato from a tiny café.
To wrap the trip up in a metaphorical bow, Buddy suggested that we head to the hilltop park near the Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar, where locals gather to cheer on the sunset every evening. Oliver and I sat down at a chic restaurant adjacent to the park, Esplanada do Teleféri co (R. Rocha Leão S/N, Tel. +351-22-099-6290), which boasted the best view of Porto’s cityscape, a hip bar scene, and loads of shareable plates. Watching the sun sink over the Douro River we had just cruised as we feasted on a wonderful Portuguese meal felt like a supremely fit ting ending to our adventure.
As I stared out at the thousands of 300 to 500 year old buildings that comprise the stunning metropolis of Porto, I realized that, even if the day-to-day drama of my increasingly modern life feels never ending, it isn’t. Visiting a country far older than my own helped soothe my addled mind and put things into perspective. Maybe some emails can be ignored in favor of a siesta, a good meal, or a mental health break. The essential elements of a life well lived aren’t going anywhere.
