Discovering Cuernavaca, Mexico

by Mark Chesnut
A Luxurius Hacienda in Cuernavaca, Mexico

Known as the city of eternal spring thanks to its year-round agreeable climate, Cuernavaca is a grande dame of the tourism world, slightly faded and no longer socializing with the A-list, but still as fascinating as ever.

Mark Chesnut

If you’re a meat lover, you’ll do especially well at La Vicenta (Calle Jacarandas 103, Ricardo Flores Magon. Tel: +52-777-688-7635. www.lavicenta.com.mx). The Cuernavaca branch of this upscale collection of Mexican restaurants is one of the city’s go-to places for beef and other grilled meats. Tasty empanadas, Argentinian chorizo, and tuna bruschetta are among the tastiest finds here.

Teatro Morelos in Cuernavaca, Mexico

Teatro Morelos
Photos: LatinFlyer.com

Travelers don’t visit Cuernavaca to party, they come for the history, culture, cuisine, and the sumptuous accommodations. Given the fact that Cuernavaca is so close to Mexico City, it’s not surprising that the city of eternal spring can’t compete with its larger neighbor when it comes to LGBTQ nightlife. “There’s very little here,” said Germain, a local resident who moved to Cuernavaca 12 years ago from Guerrero. “A while back there was a ‘gay boom,’ but now there aren’t many places for gay people to go. They just travel to Mexico City if they want to go out.”

Within the city limits, you’ll only find two LGBTQ bars and nightclubs, and weekends are the only time to enjoy the scene. We started our nightlife tour on a Friday at Enigma Cuernavaca (Salazar 34. Tel: +52-777-163-9953. www.facebook.com/EnigmaBarCuernavaca), which is the most convenient for tourists since it’s centrally located downtown, near many attractions and restaurants. The bar is small but popular, blossoming into a lively dance club on weekends from 8 P.M. to 5 A.M.

We continued to Baby Queen (Av. Plan de Ayala 708 – 5, Col. Jacarandas. Tel: +52-777-322-8455. www.facebook.com/BabyQueen-Cuerna), Cuernavaca’s flashiest dance club, which opens weekends at 10 P.M. and closes at about 5 A.M., with loud thumping music and a large dance floor to keep night owls moving.

We didn’t stay long enough to see the last people leave, of course. I was intent on waking up early the next morning to continue following in the footsteps of Cuernavaca’s glorious, celebrity-filled past. As we walked down the darkened streets, I couldn’t help but wonder where Elizabeth Taylor and Barbara Woolworth Hutton would have gone for a nightcap.

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