Las Vegas Wanderlust

by Jeff Heilman
Las Vegas, Nevada at Night

With so much to see, taste, explore and experience, is it any wonder why Las Vegas continues to be one of the most popular destinations for travelers from around the world?

“These trendsetting boss babes bewitch the bar with alchemy, art, and hyper-creative cocktails,” said Mariena Mercer-Boarini, mixologist at Wynn Las Vegas. Harnessing the face-numbing power of her revolutionary Verbena cocktail, her new flavor- and sensation-enhancing Electricdust powder is “the second-best thing to do with your tongue.”

Housed in a former garage, Jammyland Cocktail Bar & Reggae Kitchen is for Caribbean fare and inventive cocktails. Adjacent to the Arts Factory Building, The Garden Las Vegas ( is a new “ultra-lounge” from local LGBTQ nightlife veteran Eduardo Cordova.

Chinatown’s culinary star is also rising. Long dominated by a melting pot of Asian restaurants along Spring Mountain Road, the community west of the Strip has seen an expanding menu of choices in recent years.

Vanguards include Brian Howard’s nationally acclaimed Sparrow + Wolf ( and Khai Vu’s East-meets-West District One Kitchen & Bar.  Other hot tickets include EDO Gastro Tapas & Wine; Modern French-inspired Partage; and Modern Thai eatery Lamaii. The Golden Tiki ( is a 24/7 Vegas classic.

The culinary landscape of Las Vegas is becoming one of the most diverse in the USA. According to Contursi, whose tours also cover The Arts District and Chinatown, and who introduced his self-guided Finger Licking Foodie Tours during the pandemic, “It takes research and legwork. Let GPS, rideshare and wanderlust be your guides.”

History and culture are always at the mercy of continual reinvention in this desert citadel, but there is always a plethora of amazing experiences just waiting for visitors to discover.

Las Vegas isn’t concerned with what we were yesterday or with what we are today,” once noted the late Hal Rothman, chair of UNLV’s History Department and foremost Vegas authority of his time. “It’s tomorrow that entices us.”

Raquel Reed, Las Vegas, Nevada

Raquel Reed
Photo: Radiant Inc.

Dazzlers in the current $16 billion investment wave include the MSG Sphere, a futuristic entertainment orb with revolutionary audio and visual systems, and Elon Musk’s subterranean Tesla “loop” transport system under the expanding convention district, and potentially the Vegas core itself. Amid shiny new things, vintage landmarks shine even brighter.

In September 1928, Overland Hotel owner Ethel Guenter switched on her new “neon gas-electric sign” and gave Las Vegas its signature art form and identifier. Another woman, Betty Willis, designed the landmark 1959 ‘Welcome to Fabulous Las Vegas’ sign, which along with Flamingo’s 1968 plume, updated in 1975, and Lucky the Clown at Circus Circus (1976) are the Strip’s sole yesteryear survivors. The old guard lives on though at Downtown’s Neon Museum (, where still-electrified retirees include the martini-glass beauty from late ’60’s gay bar Red Barn. Digital artist Craig Winslow’s reanimation of classic inoperable signs, choreographed to classic Vegas tunes, is truly “Brilliant!”

Heirlooms dotting the Downtown landscape include The Silver Slipper; Hacienda Hotel’s Caballero on a Palomino; and Willis’s recently restored 1957 Blue Angel Motel sign (also look for the “Phalanx of Angels Descending” mural inspired by the 16-foot tall icon).

At historic Fremont and Main, developer Derek Stephens owns Vegas’s original hotel, the Golden Gate (1906), and its latest, Circa Las Vegas ( Where the Overland once stood, this sleek adults-only tower features a tiered outdoor pool amphitheater and Vegas Vickie in the lobby, while her 40-foot tall pal Vegas Vic still stands sentinel at the nearby Pioneer Club.

The city of Las Vegas’ downtown improvement project, Project Enchilada, is returning vintage motel signs to East Fremont, where the 1941 El Cortez ( is Vegas’ oldest continuously operating casino. Adorned with classic signage, this time capsule features a vintage barbershop, a floor of original guestrooms, and $5 margaritas all day, every day.

Neon Museum in Las Vegas, Nevada

Neon Museum
Photo: Dennis Dean

Bugsy Siegel, who had a stake in the El Cortez before founding the Flamingo, is featured at Downtown’s National Museum of Organized Crime and Law Enforcement, or Mob Museum ( Housed in Vegas’ original 1933 U.S. Courthouse and Post Office, arresting draws include the courtroom where the nationally televised Kefauver hearings on Mafia involvement in Vegas were held in 1950. Visit the website for the weekly password to access the basement-level Speakeasy Bar.

Dating to early showgirls and the first topless Minsky shows in 1957 at The Dunes, burlesque and other risqué entertainment are also Vegas signatures. “Less so these days after Jubilee! closed (in 2016 , after 35 years at the Tropicana),” said international headliner and model Raquel Reed, who stars in the smash adult hit Absinthe at Caesars Palace. “But a solid handful of us keep it going here.”

Guardians include Dustin Wax, executive director of the Burlesque Hall of Fame ( Featuring informative panels and vintage ephemera, this pioneering Arts District museum was originated by late tassel-twirling legend Jennie Lee. Wax and his team promote this historic art form through community events and the annual Burlesque Hall of Fame Weekend. Reigning burlesque queens Dita Von Teese and Dirty Martini are board members.

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