One evening, we Ubered over to another noteworthy property: the JW Marriott Panama, which is dramatically set in Central America’s tallest skyscraper. Its contemporary design sets the stage for a decidedly upscale hotel experience, and we relished a lovely evening at Masi, one of the hotel’s beautiful restaurants, which has a dining garden that provides a romantic setting for drinks or a meal.
LGBTQ NIGHTLIFE IN PANAMA CITY
As one of Central America’s largest cities, Panama City is a hub for LGBTQ nightlife, although in recent years many LGBTQ locals find themselves increasingly comfortable in “mainstream” venues as well, since many of them are trendy, stylish, and decidedly friendly.
The Casco Antiguo is the hippest hub for mainstream nightlife, especially at rooftop bars like CasaCasco and Tántalo, both of which have live DJs on the weekend but attract night owls throughout the week.
LGBTQ-specific nightlife in Panama City is centered mostly around dance clubs that attract young crowds for late-night fun on the weekends. The largest, XS, is billed as the biggest LGBTQ disco in Central America. With an ambiance that’s something like a warehouse painted black, its cavernous interior packs in the revelers on weekends. Cover is generally about $18 and includes open bar, but the low quality of the free drinks may convince you to splurge on other beverages and perhaps opt for access to the VIP section.
Another top LGBTQ pick is BLG, which is smaller but quite attractive. Depending on the night and the event, you may pay about $20 to get in, with open bar included (or $25 for open bar and VIP seating). There’s not as much dance space at BLG, but the music is good and we’ve enjoyed some especially good drag shows there. If you’re hungry, you can head to the open-air back area, where patrons puff from hookahs as they scan the menu of empanadas, hot dogs, cheese fries with bacon, and salchipapas (French fries with sliced hot dogs).
BLG Drag Show (Photo by Mark Chesnut)
Larger than BLG but smaller than XS is Envy, a popular LGBTQ dance club that’s centrally located in the El Cangrejo neighborhood. On Fridays, they charge a $15 cover, with open bar from 9 P.M. until 2 A.M. The big stage offers plenty of space for DJs, drag queens, and go-go boys.
If you’re in the mood for a gay dive bar, you can’t go wrong at La Cueva, a longstanding venue (formerly known as La Madrid) near the trendier mainstream bars in the Casco Antiguo. Downscale, small, and lively, La Cueva attracts a mostly male clientele, but the men are more varied in age and class than in the other LGBTQ nightspots. Music blasts in the tiny dance area and the smoke machine makes the drag show and strippers seem almost like hallucinations. The $5 weekend cover provides nothing but entry, but drinks are cheap.
LGBTQ RIGHTS AND PRIDE IN PANAMA
Panama has made progress in improving the legal status of its LGBTQ citizens, but discrimination remains. Same-sex sexual activity is legal in Panama, but unlike neighboring Colombia and Costa Rica, same-sex marriage is still not recognized.
“We’re still fighting for same-sex marriage here in Panama,” said Xamir, a Panama City native and male model. “There’s still a certain amount of homophobia and machismo, even within our own community. What has improved is inclusion and participation in pride festivals, marches, and parades. In addition, globally recognized transnational companies like Levi’s and Dell have been able to introduce material in support of the community, and this has made it possible for Panamanian companies to join those campaigns.”
Lucas Castillo, a Panama City-based designer also known as AaNesty, agrees about the progress, and the need for more. “Thanks to the union of organizations that fight for our rights, some support groups, and the growth of Panama pride, many businesses have changed their personnel policies and accept us as we are,” he said. “But we are still in the fight.”
Indeed, even as Panama’s government lags behind nearby countries, the local LGBTQ community is enjoying ever-greater visibility. The first pride parade, which took place in 2005, attracted only 100 participants (and none of my Panamanian friends felt comfortable attending a public queer gathering). Today, the annual event has grown into a vibrant parade and street festival that takes place in late June. In addition, multiple LGBTQ organizations serve the needs of the community, including the Asociación de Hombres y Mujeres Nuevos de Panamá (Association of New Men and Women of Panama), Convive Panamá and Fundación Iguales.
Giraldo (Photo by Mark Chesnut)
As the struggle for LGBTQ rights progresses, Panama has all the ingredients to become one of the next great LGBTQ vacation destinations.
