Bogota continues to serve as a magnet for LGBTQ+ Colombians from around the nation who are seeking a place to feel safe and accepted.
Bogota is in growth mode, with more travelers discovering its broad appeal and heading to the capital of Colombia that wows visitors with activities, attractions, and a decidedly welcoming vibe.
In 2022, El Dorado International Airport (the city’s main airport) processed 35.3 million passengers, a number surpassed in Latin America only after Mexico City’s Benito Juarez International Airport. Even more impressive: the International Air Transport Association expects arrivals to surge by 93 percent by 2037.
What’s attracting so many travelers? Well, there are various reasons. This bustling metropolis is steeped in history (the first European settlement dates to 1538, although indigenous people have lived in this region for much, much longer), and it is set in a geographically stunning area of the Andes; it’s actually the third-highest capital city in South America and in the world. Travelers enjoy the region’s natural beauty and fascinating history, to be sure, but they also appreciate its sophisticated culture and progressive society. Same-sex marriage, for example, has been legal in Colombia since 2016, and Bogota (as well as other major cities) host vibrant pride celebrations every year.
Bogota also continues to serve as a magnet for LGBTQ+ Colombians from around the nation who are seeking a place to feel safe and accepted—people like Renzo Romero, an attorney, model, and cheerleader who moved to Bogota in 2019 after growing up in a small town. “Bogota has given me the opportunity to be myself,” he said. “I come from a conservative, machista town. When I arrived in Bogota, I realized there was no problem about being who I was and who I wanted to be, and no problem expressing myself however I wanted. It’s been incredible. That’s why I’ve stayed here for so long.”
The city also makes it easy for LGBTQ+ visitors to explore and enjoy all that it has to offer. In 2023, Bogota’s tourism office debuted a new digital LGBTQ+ travel guide in Spanish, with detailed listings about culture, cuisine, nightlife, shopping, wellness, hotels, tourist activities, and attractions. ProColombia, the nation’s tourism investment organization, also features LGBTQ+ travel news on its website colombia.travel/en.
During my most recent visit to Bogota, I investigated several new reasons to put the city on your vacation wish list.
GREAT NEW RESTAURANTS
Colombia’s capital has long been a culinary hub, and it continues to diversify its offerings. Sure, you can still visit the always- popular Andres DC (Calle 82 #12-21. Tel. +57-601-861-2233. andrescarnederes.com) for a hearty Colombian dinner complemented by lively dance and music performances (it’s a pricey tourist favorite), but it’s even more rewarding when you take a table at some of the city’s smaller-scale venues.
We had the good fortune of renting an Airbnb in Chapinero, a centrally located neighborhood that’s also home to the city’s highest concentration of LGBTQ+ nightlife. Our apartment also happened to be just one block from an especially interesting, relatively new café: Petunia Reposteria con Alma (Calle 54A # 4A-21, Chapinero. Tel. +57-324-644-6653. instagram.com/petuniareposteria), which is billed as the first bakery and restaurant in Colombia that “officially” hires trans people. The venue, which is bathed in pleasingly pink decor, is a great place for coffee, desserts and light meals during the day.
Another new favorite is Humo Negro (Cra. 5 #56-06, Chapinero. Tel. +57- 319-738-2946. humonegrobog.com), which describes its concept as “fine dining grunge.” I’d describe it as a hip, Japanese-inspired eatery, with a unique menu that includes unexpected surprises like fish and chips, but prepared with Asian and Colombian influences in ways that you’ve surely never seen before.
We also loved our dining experience at La Cocina de Pepina (Cl. 56 #4a-11. Tel. +57-311-812-4734. instagram.com/pepinabogota), which opened in 2022 in a beautiful former home. The first Bogota outpost of what has long been a celebrated restaurant in Cartagena, it features a Caribbean- focused menu and we especially liked the croquettes and seafood.
For light fare, including tasty breakfasts, I also recommend Mesa Salvaje (Dg. 55 No. 4-14, Chapinero. Tel. +57-314-442-9115. instagram.com/mesasalvaje), which has a lovely terrace and serves a good brunch; I even liked the vegetarian burger.
If you are looking for late-night bites after nights out at the bars, one of our new favorite places is Mole Arepas (Cra. 9 #59-14, Chapinero. Tel. +57-320-403-3216. instagram.com/molearepas), which features an affordable menu of arepas filled with deli- cious items including shrimp and beef. It’s a perfect place to end the evening.
Other new restaurants that have opened within the past year or so include Débora (Calle 69 #4-80, Chapinero. Tel. +57-310-642-8288. deborarestaurante.com), an elegant venue with a menu that’s especially good for meat lovers; Ánima (Centro Comercial Atlantis, Calle 81 #13-05. Tel. +57-314-233-9436. restauranteanima.com), which specializes in Wagyu beef imported from Japan; and Libre (Carrera 4 Bis #58-50. Tel. +57-305-390-2584. librerestaurante.com), where wine and sophisticated, sustainable Colombian cuisine is the focus.
HOTELS OPTIONS
Bogota offers a diverse array of hotels with many different styles and price points, so it’s easy (and fun) to shop around for the property that best fits your personality, budget and style.
Located in the financial district and just a few minutes by car from LGBTQ+ nightlife, the Hilton Bogota (Carrera 7 No. 72-41. Tel. +57-601-600-6100. hilton.com) is showing its LGBTQ+ friendliness in a variety of ways; during the last Bogota pride celebration, the hotel hosted an LGBTQ+ entrepreneurial business fair.
Also on my list of favorite new hotels is HAB Hotel (Cra. 5 # 58-07, Chapinero. Tel. + 57-318-547-9611. habhotel.co/). This stylish property, which opened in 2021 in a former private brick residence in the upscale part of Chapinero, is comfortable, attractive, and offers a great location, not far from nightlife and lots of dining options. The property also has a lovely restaurant and bar, with indoor and outdoor seating and an extensive cocktail menu.
More recently opened hotels in Bogota include Bliss Boutique Hotel (Cl. 98a #4929. Tel. +57-601-552-2595. hotelblissbogota.com), a 20-room hotel with competitive rates, and Studio 22 (Cl 22 #9-50. Tel. +57-310-768-7254. https://www.studio22bogota.com/), which offers one-bedroom apartments in downtown Bogota with minifridges and other amenities.
LGBTQ+ NIGHTLIFE
Bogota has long been known as a South American hotspot for queer nightlife, especially since it’s home to Theatrón (Cl. 58 No. 10-32, Chapinero. Tel. +57-1-235-6879. theatrondepelicula.com), the largest LGBTQ+ club in the Western Hemisphere, and quite possibly the world. Its 13 unique venues, each of which has its own theme, décor, DJ and music, never fails to impress (fans often call it “gay Disneyworld”).
The city offers dozens of other bars and clubs for queer night owls. Among the newest is Bar Chiquita (Carrera 12 a # 79 – 25, Chapinero. barchiquita.com), which opened 2023 as the Bogota branch of one of Medellin’s most popular nightclubs. It’s graced with vibrant colors and cheeky design elements that beg to be photographed, and there’s great stage for drag shows, too. Bar Chiquita has quickly become one of the most impres- sive of all the city’s queer bars.
The main nightlife section of Chapinero continues to draw thousands of partiers throughout the year, with bars large and small that can satisfy a variety of tastes. At Mala Muerte (Cra. 9 #59-25. Tel. +57-1-308-8189. instagram.com/malamuertedc), the hip, kitschy, vintage décor sets the stage for music that ranges from reggaeton to industrial and techno. It’s a small, two- level space that attracts a fun mix of people of every orientation and identity.
Just across the street is a long-time favorite for drinks with friends: El Perro y la Calandria (Cra. 9 #59-16. instagram.com/elperroylacalandria), a humbly decorate bar that specializes in classic Spanish- language pop music. Expect to hear lots of people singing along. For bear vibes, one of the current hotspots is Bearlove (Cra. 9a #60-37. Tel. +57-321-970-9478. facebook. com/BearLoveoficial), where the décor includes stuffed bears and bear statues; everyone is welcome.
On a slightly larger scale (though still nowhere near as big as Theatron) is the amusingly named Brokeback Mountain (Cl. 59 #9-34. Tel. +57-1-544-4124. instagram.com/brokeback.mountain59), which locals tend to simply call “Broke.” The venue has multiple levels with vaguely west- ern-themed furnishings and hosts karaoke on the covered top-floor terrace. Next door is Leos (Calle 59 #9-36, Chapinero. instagram.com/leos_bar_mistica_chapinero), a multilevel club that’s decent for dancing and drag shows.
For loud music and male strippers, con- sider Garage Disco Bar (Cl. 59 #9-39. Tel. +57-315-617-5056. facebook.com/p/Garage-Disco-Bar-100068857772699/), which actually has two locations: one is a small bar with indoor and outdoor seating, the other is a larger, dimly lit stripper bar with private rooms.
OUT & ABOUT
Touring Bogota on your own is certainly doable, but it can be easier with a guide who can personalize the experience. Out in Colombia (outincolombia.com), the Medellin-based LGBTQ+ tour operator, offers a variety of experiences and services in Bogota, including nightlife tours. The company recently added a customizable shopping tour that can include markets or focus on more upscale retailers, based on the traveler’s interest.
LGBTQ+ travelers may be surprised to learn that Bogota is home to a rather large queer history museum. They may be even more surprised that it’s located inside a gay men’s bathhouse (at least I was). The Museo LGBTI de Colombia (LGBTQ Museum of Colombia) (Cra. 13a # 38-60 Tel. +57-601-287-9956) features interesting exhibits about queer history in Colombia and around the world, including tributes to the Stonewall rebellion and important figures in history. Plan your visit carefully however, as the museum has very limited hours — it’s only open from 9:30 A.M. until noon, Monday through Friday. If you visit at any other time, you’ll only be able to peek at the dis- plays on your way into the sauna, which is called Cómplices (same address and contact information as the museum. instagram.com/videoycantinacomplices)
For queer culture, it’s also a good idea to check the schedule at Teatro Barraca (Carrera 16A # 61A-05 – Chapinero. Tel. +57-314-280-4337. barracateatro.com) a theater that often hosts stage shows with LGBTQ+ themes.
Among the must-see museums in Bogota is the Museo Nacional (Cra. 7 #N. 28-66. Tel. +57-1-381-6470. museonacional.gov.co), which hosts a variety of temporary and permanent exhibits, and the Museo de Oro (Cra. 6 #15-88, Santa Fé. Tel. +57-601-343-2222. banrepcultural.org/bogota/museo-del-oro), one of the most visited sites in all of Colombia, which has a collection of thousands of gold items that date to pre-colonial times.
