COTTONWOOD AND THE ALLURE OF WINE
The next day, I’m off to Cottonwood across an other-worldly landscape of red buttes and deep forest, with much of the drive through the Prescott National Forest. I think most people don’t expect Arizona to be so wooded, but as I navigate my way around switchbacks snaking through tree-covered hills, I realize that there’s so much here that doesn’t really fit the usual stereotypes of the Southwest, and a little exploration reveals a side of things that isn’t simply the desert most people probably imagine.
This is wine country, with an important part of Arizona’s growing wine industry based in this area. Cottonwood’s Main Street holds a large collection of tasting rooms, and several wineries are within a few minutes’ drive. While Cottonwood still has a small-town feel, it’s right at the center of some important changes, and being just a short drive from Sedona doesn’t hurt either!
Historic Old Town Cottonwood
Photo: EQ Roy
I check into Pines Inn and Suites, and don’t be fooled by the motellike exterior, as the rooms are super-comfortable, nicely designed, and offer a good alternative to the crowds of Old Town (it’s about a fiveminute drive away). Dark wood, pale stucco walls, photos of those famous red rocks, and a green consciousness that’s nice to see (the lobby, for instance, has a filtered water dispenser where you can refill a container). They also have the only saltwater pool in town!
Then, after an appealing brunch on the comfy patio of Crema Craft Kitchen and Bar (their take-out window, by the way, becomes my go-to spot for morning espresso and the best glory muffins in history), I start checking out tasting rooms: hey, it’s never too early, right? The Pillsbury Wine Company tasting room has both couch and bar seating (I choose the latter). You can do all-red, all-white, or mixed flights. I particularly love their “Diva,” a Syrah/Petite Syrah blend that’s won awards in Arizona and California competitions. I also like the feel of Carlson Creek, where you sit at a wooden bar or high tables under rows of barrels, and who can beat the idea of wine and chocolate pairings? At AZ Stronghold, I take a seat on the patio under a red umbrella, and my wine flight ranges from crisp Malvasia Bianca and Chardonnay (a grape you actually don’t see much down here) to a beautiful Syrah. Definitely stop by Tantrum, the nicest tasting room I’ve seen, with a mural creating an image of an exterior wall, comfy couches, portraits of various women (including the winemaker), chandeliers, twinkling lights, and a red tin ceiling. It’s like the living room of your well-todo but slightly eccentric aunt, and it’s a treat to sip my smooth and rich Petite Syrah in the comfort of this room, with soft music playing and service that’s as gracious as it gets.
The king of them all is Merkin Vineyards Osteria, which is as much a restaurant (one of the best in town) as a tasting room. It doesn’t look like your traditional tasting room, but you’d expect that from a winery run by MJ Keenan, the Grammy-award winning singer from Puscifer, A Perfect Circle, and Tool. In addition to the wine, there’s a large and appealing menu, the service is flawless, and the long room is bustling. I sample a variety of great wines: my favorites are Shinola Orancia, a 100% Malvasia Bianca with the bouquet of a sweet wine but a bone-dry flavor, and Chupacabra rosé, a GSM named after this Latin American shape-shifter, and indeed, the taste seems to shift even between sips! Le Verdure, roasted vegetables from Merkin’s own farms, make a perfect starter, followed by in an-house favorite: a “Lasagna Cupcake,” a little individual serving of lasagna (I choose chicken relleno, with smoked ricotta and bechamel for a dense richness, the roasted chicken and poblanos keeping it all real). For wine and food, Merkin can’t be beat.
Merkin Vineyards Wine
I’ve started with the tasting rooms because those are really what’s brought fame to Cottonwood in recent years, but there’s a lot more to do here. I look in Cartwheels, devoted to local arts and crafts, check out Verde Valley Olive Oil Traders (their chipotle olive oil is a must-have) and Cat’s Meow Antiques. Larry’s Antiques has literally acres of antiques and collectibles, and how can I pass up a store like Art Glitter, which claims to have the world’s largest assortment of glitter? I stop for lunch at Old Town Red Rooster Café, which has a wonderful atmosphere, is well-known for being gay-friendly, and actually has a rainbow flag flying outside (the first I’ve seen in these parts). They serve breakfast and lunch only, like many places in town, and I get a black bean burger that’s amazingly good, with a fabulous mango smoothie.
I refuel at Firecreek Coffee Company, a nice spot that’s a wide-open, modern looking place with great coffee drinks and pastries. It feels like the local hangout, with people on laptops, in groups and pairs, relaxing on the couches or in heated discussion at one of the high tables; pretty much everything you’d expect from a coffee house.
Then I explore some of the surroundings. One must-visit is Tuzigoot National Monument, an amazing testament to the past (and the present). This former Sinagua Village was built about 1000 years ago. I keep reminding myself of this as I stroll up the path to see the still-standing stone walls of the village, after pausing in the visitors’ center over a nice display of artifacts from the Sinagua people. At the top of the main building, I look out over fields, buttes covered in scrubby trees, and rock formations shaded from beige to dark red, the hills rising beyond. It’s almost too much to take in: the elaborate structure, the delicate restoration, the magnificence of the surrounding scenery all combine for an experience you’re not likely to forget.
Crema
Nearer to town is Dead Horse Ranch State Park. This large park offers various atmospheres and I take advantage of them all. First a walk along the Verde River, down tree-shaded paths, the cicadas making their usual racket and the trees reflected beautifully in the rippling waters. It’s shady, cool, and peaceful. I also check out the lagoons, looking past the still pools of water to the hills in the distance. I climb a trail among boulders to look out over buttes and hills, the rock formations creating an otherworldly kind of beauty that’s totally different from the shady and verdant atmosphere along the river. So many natural worlds to explore within this one park! Best of all, it’s only about a five-minute drive from the heart of Main Street.
