If you’re looking to learn about mixology, you may want to reserve a space at the Liquor Lab, a new venue that offers cocktail mixing classes in the trendy NuLu neighborhood. Also new in NuLu is The Local Seltzery, which specializes in seltzer drinks, cocktails, and light fare. And you can feel good about what you ingest there, since all of its seltzer drinks and cocktails are 100 calories or less and are gluten free, vegan, and made with all-natural ingredients.
The hip NuLu neighborhood, in fact, is an especially rewarding destination for foodies. Additional options include Guacamole, where modern Mexican cuisine is complemented by vibrant, colorful and artsy décor in various photogenic dining areas: the Tulum Room, which is furnished with basket chairs inspired by the Mexican Caribbean coast, the Frida Kahlo Room, which celebrates the work of you-know-who, and the Catrina Bar, which highlights artwork inspired by the day of the dead.
For faster, more casual fare in NuLu, I also enjoyed Royals Hot Chicken, which specializes in fried chicken and serves bourbon infused coffee, lemonade, and milkshakes.
One of the newest dining venues in the Highlands, meanwhile, is Nostalgic, a restaurant that opened at the Hotel Bellwether, specializing in contemporary, upscale interpretations of comfort food. Other places we’ve enjoyed include La Chasse, an elegant venue in the Highlands that serves French and Spanish cuisine, where we lingered over a charcuterie board while sipping excellent wine.
For a truly inclusive experience, head to the Old Louisville Coffee Co-op, a queer-worker-owned coffee shop and bakery that debuted in 2022 with the goal of creating a space that welcomes “people of every race, class, ethnicity, gender, sexuality, ability, body type, religion, and walk of life.”
Of course, one of the liveliest places to drink and dine in Louisville is CC’s Kitchen, where multiple drag performers take the stage every weekend for a boozy brunch that attracts diners of every orientation. The brunch menu includes decadent items like cotton candy martinis and cheesecake served in chocolate high heel shoes, so if you have a sweet tooth you’ll enjoy yourself even more.
Drag Brunch at CC’s Kitchen (Photo by Mark Chesnut, DepartureLevel.com)
WHERE TO STAY IN LOUISVILLE
Derby City, as Louisville is often called, is home to a surprisingly diverse array of accommodation options. Those looking to stay close to LGBTQ nightlife and dining in the Highlands should consider The Bellwether, one of the city’s newest hotels and the first to open in that neighborhood, housed partially in a former Bell Telephone switchboard center building on Bardstown Road.
Bellwether Hotel (Photo by Mark Chesnut, DepartureLevel.com)
My husband and I spent two nights at The Bellwether and loved the beautifully reimagined property, which blends early 20th-century style with modern amenities (as well as an irresistible, all-pink selfie booth, which is decked out with vintage telephone receivers and ties in with the building’s previous affiliation with a telephone company). We also like the fact that it’s something of a hybrid property; there are no staff present for check-ins or checkouts, so the experience is similar to an Airbnb. Check-in was easy, with a code supplied by email to enter the building.
Due to open by press time is Hotel Genevieve, a member of Bunkhouse Hotels, the Austin, Texas-based chain of community minded hotels. Located in the hip NuLu district, the 122-room property is the largest in the Bunkhouse portfolio and is home to a speakeasy called Lucky Penny and a rooftop lounge.
Those looking for an art-infused getaway, meanwhile, will find lots to love at the 21C Hotel, a boutique hotel that’s often ranked among the best hotels in the country. The Louisville property was the first in what is now a chain of 21C properties, and it’s worth a visit even if you’re not staying there, just to see the art gallery and perhaps have a drink or dinner at the artsy onsite restaurant.
David Statue at 21C Hotel (Photo by Mark Chesnut, DepartureLevel.com)
If a more historic vibe is your thing, you’ll feel at home at The Brown Hotel, which opened in 1923 and is a member of Historic Hotels of America. Guests here have included the Duke of Windsor, Elizabeth Taylor, Joan Crawford, Jimmy Carter, and Barack Obama. In addition, Orlando Bloom’s character stayed at The Brown in the movie Elizabethtown.
Louisville’s other grande dame hotel, The Seelbach Hilton, is also worth considering. Opened in 1905, it’s graced with a gorgeous lobby and a historic roster of guests including Harry Truman, Keith Richards from the Rolling Stones, and Al Capone, who stayed here multiple times while traveling to and from his moonshine sources in eastern Kentucky.
For a modern, full-service luxury hotel experience, one of the top choices is the Hyatt Regency Louisville, a soaring downtown property with a fitness center, indoor swimming pool, and a “farm-to-fork” restaurant called Sway.
