Discover Santa Marta, Colombia through an LGBTQ+ lens. Explore the city’s history, culture, and natural beauty on a customized tour.
Anyone looking to go off the well-traveled tourist trail and pay a visit to this city by the sea will find lots to do. Santa Marta, in fact, is a historic, multifaceted small city that’s rich in culture and cuisine. It also happens to serve as a convenient gateway to some of the most beautiful natural areas along Colombia’s Caribbean coastline and the foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountains.
I explored this region’s allure during a recent group tour with Out in Colombia (Tel. 602-399-7433. outincolombia.com), an LGBTQ+ tour operator based in Colombia that specializes in customized upscale itineraries around the country.
The company recently added Santa Marta to its offerings, and for very good reasons, according to Sam Castaneda Holdren, CEO and founder of Out in Colombia, “Santa Marta is a lesser-known destination compared to some parts of Colombia, but it’s a true gem that blends history, natural beauty, and a growing LGBTQ+ scene.” He also told me that “In terms of gay travel, it’s not as developed as Medellin, Bogota, and Cartagena, but it’s very gay friendly, and when you travel with Out in Colombia, you get expert guides and recommendations that help you to find the friendliest spots and get the insider’s perspective on local life.”
Indeed, I found that traveling with Out in Colombia made it easier to discover Santa Marta’s most noteworthy sites and activities, as well as its local LGBTQ+ life, since our group benefited from the knowledge of an expert local guide as well as the presence of gay men from other parts of Colombia who’d already visited the destination. We spent multiple days taking in the region’s charm, and I was pleasantly surprised by how much there was to see and do.
Historic City Hall of Santa Marta (Photo by Jess Kraft)
My overall take: Santa Marta provides a setting for a supremely enjoyable Colombian coastal getaway. It’s especially ideal for anyone interest ed in history, culture, cuisine, and spectacular natural beauty. With its sun-soaked, laidback vibe, it’s a place where you can enjoy the beach and exploring, with easy access to adventure activities as well as a small-but fun LGBTQ+ nightlife scene. Here are some of the highlights.
OUT AND ABOUT IN SANTA MARTA
Founded in 1525 on South America’s Caribbean coast, Santa Marta is the oldest colonial city in Colombia. As the region’s first Spanish settlement, the port city served an important role during the colonial era. The area’s indigenous history and traditions are especially interesting and can be explored outside the city (more on that later), but it’s easy to delve into colonial history in the historic city center.
We stopped at several fascinating sites, including the Museo del Oro Tairona (Casa de la Adurana, Carrera 2 con calle 14, Parque de Bolivar. Tel. +57-605-421-0251. banrepcultural.org). Set in a beautifully restored former customs house that dates to 1730, the facility is largely dedicated to one of the reasons that the Spanish were so interested in what is now the nation of Colombia: gold. I admired the exhibits of pre-Columbian gold and pottery as well as hundreds of other historic artifacts.
Catedral Basilica de Santa Marta (Photo by Fotos 593)
With its sun-soaked, laidback vibe, Santa Marta a place where you can enjoy the beach and exploring, with easy access to adventure activities as well as a small-but-fun LGBTQ+ nightlife scene.
Walking just a few blocks away, we gazed at the stately Catedral Basíli ca de Santa Marta (Plaza de la Catedral, Carrera 4. Tel. +57-315-678- 2845), the city’s most important Catholic historic site; the church was found ed in 1531, although its current structure was built in the 18th century.
Another important site on the region’s history trail is La Quinta de San Pedro Alejandrino (Sector San Pedro Alejandrino, Avenida El Libertador. Tel. +57-301-476-7088. museobolivariano.org.co), a museum where Simón Bolívar, the man considered the liberator of multiple South Ameri can nations, spent his final days. This landmark former estate now houses a variety of exhibits and hosts cultural events throughout the year. If you’re a history buff, it’s worth spending some time strolling the tranquil gardens, viewing the monument dedicated to Bolivar, and learning about Santa Marta’s role in shaping Colombia’s independence from Spain.
ENJOYING NATURE
Nature lovers who visit Santa Marta often spend a lot of time at Tayrona National Park (colombia.travel/en), a sprawling and unspoiled stretch of seafront that is part of the ancestral home of multiple indigenous communities. You can reach the park by bus or car, of course, but Out in Colombia made sure we took the most scenic route: a 45-minute private boat ride from the port of Santa Marta.
Tayrona National Park (Photo by departurelevel.com)
Hugging the coast, we were treated to postcard-perfect views before our boat glided into a peaceful bay, where we hopped into the crystal clear water and onto the golden sands of a gorgeous beach (which became a gay beach during our visit, thanks to our lively group). It was an idyllic spot for a relaxing afternoon, and the area is excellent for swimming and hiking jungle trails.
Bird lovers can also find lots of rewarding activities just outside of Santa Marta. The region is home to some 202 species of birds—that’s seven percent of the world’s bird population, according to tourism officials. El Dorado (conservation.co/en/el-dorado-nature-reserve), a 3,212- acre nature reserve in the Sierra Nevada mountains, is one of the best places to view local and migrating species.
If you’re looking to immerse yourself even more in the region’s nature and history, consider a hike along the Taironaka Archeological Trail along the Don Diego River, where the ruins of an ancient indigenous settlement are located. Four indigenous communities: the Kogui, Arahuaco, Wiwa, and Kankuamo still live in this region, as a matter of fact, and learning about their traditions is one of the most enjoyable parts of visiting Colombia’s Caribbean coast.
For an especially in-depth experience, consider a multi-day side trip to the Ciudad Perdida (Lost City), the ruins of a civilization in the northern Sierra Nevada that date to sometime between AD 500 and 700. The guided trek, which takes three or four days, involves hiking across rugged terrain, past rivers, over hills and near various indigenous communities. It also requires an impressive amount of physical stamina, so it’s only for travelers capable of (and interested in) traversing the vast and beautiful territory.
LGBTQ+ LIFE IN SANTA MARTA
As a smaller, less touristed city, Santa Marta doesn’t have a high profile on the LGBTQ+ tourism map, but that doesn’t mean it’s not a friendly place for queer globetrotters. We spent an enjoyable evening after dinner one night at Elles (Calle 20, Comuna 2.Tel. +57-315-488-1726. instagram.com/ellesdis cosocial.club), a bar and dance club located in downtown Santa Marta. Afterwards, some of our group headed over to Hangover (Calle 18 #2-55, Comuna 2. Tel. Unlisted. instagram.com/hangoverdisco), another popular queer dance club that draws crowds every weekend.
If you time your visit right, you also might be able to attend the annual Festival del Orgullo Diverso (Calle 2, # 13-170, Gaira. Tel. +57-300- 812-8734. instagram.com/festivaldelorgullodiverso), a pride festival that usually takes place in June or July. The multi-day festival includes a pride parade, conference, sporting events and award ceremony, and it’s a good example of how friendly and progressive this city is (Colombia is one of several Latin American nations that has legalized same-sex marriage and provides other legal protections for its LGBTQ+ citizens).
CULINARY DELIGHTS
Colombia is known for its delicious cuisine, and each region in the country has its own specialties. In Santa Marta, I was especially drawn to local favorites like ceviche, coconut fish, fried fish, and arepas, the tasty, deep fried corn cakes. It’s also easy to find nationwide staples like the bandeja paisa, a hearty platter featuring beans, rice, plantains, and grilled meats.
Bandeja Paisa (Photo by Enfococlick)
We dined at several excellent restaurants, including Pescao (Calle 7 #9-83, Comuna 3. Tel. +57-322-718-7867. instagram.com/pescaosmr), a venue that opened in 2023 and features indoor and outdoor seating, lots of local artwork and, depending on the day, live musical performances. In addition to loving the food, I was also impressed by Pescao’s dedication to supporting local community-based initiatives; the restaurant was created with help from the Tras La Perla foundation, a group founded partly by award-winning Colombian singer Carlos Vives.
Also worth a visit is Guasimo (Distrito Turístico Cultural E Histórico, Carrera 2 #19-15, Comuna 2. Tel. +57-300-835-8604. instagram.com/ restauranteguasimo), an especially stylish restaurant where we savored a delicious dinner from a menu headed by Chef Fabián Rodriguez (who also happens to be a talented artist). Original art exhibits and live music are a draw here, too.
Ceviche (Photo by SurrealSee)
Additional restaurants with devoted followings in Santa Marta include Casa Magdalena (Calle 17 #2-09, Centro Historico. Tel. +57-318-826- 7616. instagram.com/casamagdalena_smr), which serves expertly pre pared seafood, LamArt (Carrera 3 #16-30, Comuna 2. menux.live/ lamart), which specializes in ceviches and other seafood dishes, Lulo Café Bar (Carrera 3 #16-34. Comuna 2. instagram.com/lulocafebar), where freshly made arepas and panini are among the most popular items, and Porthos Steakhouse & Pub (Calle 19 #3-25, Comuna 2. porthos.com.co), part of a Colombian chain where, as the name implies, steak is a prominent feature on the menu.
For an interesting look at a local source for much of the city’s culinary traditions, consider a visit to the Mercado Público (Carrera 9, Comuna 3. Tel. +57-300-722-7816), where vendors showcase an array of fresh produce, spices, and artisanal crafts. It’s also a fun place to sample tropical fruits like mango, guava, and passion fruit, or sip on refreshing juices made from lulo or maracuyá.
Travelers with a sweet tooth take note: One of my favorite culinary experiences took place outside the city, during a day trip called the Sierra Nevada Chocolate Experience (which Out in Colombia arranges). The trip itself was a big part of the experience, since it involved a scenic ride into the foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountains to Finca la Candelar ia (Antigua Via a Bonda. Tel. +57-321-588-7985. fincalacandelaria.com.co), a picturesque coffee farm and bed and breakfast that also hap pens to produce its own chocolate. I enjoyed our cacao tour through the beautiful grounds, as well as the mouthwatering tastings.
Before heading home, we stopped in the nearby town of Minca, a lovely little mountain town, for a satisfying lunch at Hotel on the Rock (Carrera 2 #4-23, Corregimiento de Minca, Minca. Tel. +57-300-428- 9918. hotelontherockminca.com), an attractive small hotel that offers dining on its rooftop.
HOTELS IN SANTA MARTA
Santa Marta is home to a variety of hotels at various price points. We stayed at the newest luxury hotel: the 261-room Hilton Santa Marta (Carrera 2, #114-78, Sector Pozos Colorados. Tel. +57-605-435-1770. hilton.com), a gorgeous beachfront property that opened in 2023 in the upscale area called Bello Horizonte. Its rooftop infinity pool and spa cious suites are decidedly enticing, as is its location in a tranquil neighborhood right on the beach.
Artwork at Guasimo (Photo by DepartureLevel.com)
Additional luxury beachfront hotels include the Santa Marta Marriott Resort Playa Dormida (Carrera 3 #142-60. Tel. +57-605-441- 0000. marriott.com) and Wyndham Santa Marta Aluna Beach Resort (Carrera 3, #145-126, Via de Santa Marta. Tel. +57-324-573-7301. wyndhamhotels.com), both of which have swimming pools and offer easy beach access.
Hotels located closer to downtown Santa Marta, in the popular Comuna 2 neighborhood, include the Hilton Garden Inn Santa Marta (Carrera 1c, #24-04, Comuna 2. Tel. +57-605-436-8270. hilton.com) and the Best Western Plus Santa Marta (Calle 24, #3-65, Comuna 2. Tel. +57- 5-437-7000. bestwestern.com). And if you’re looking for a more nature based experience, you might want to consider reserving some time at Trekker Glamping (km 1.8 via Minca. Tel. +57-323-233-0590. trekker glamping.com), a glamping spot in the Sierra Nevada foothills outside the city.
GETTING TO SANTA MARTA
Santa Marta is served by Simón Bolivar International Airport; the most frequent and convenient flight connections are through Bogota on multiple Colombian airlines. Travelers from the United States can also connect through Panama City, Panama on Copa Airlines, and nonstops from Miami are sometimes available on Avianca. The airport serving Barranquilla, which receives more flights than Santa Marta, is just 40 miles away, but ground transfer time between Barranquilla and Santa Marta can be lengthy if there’s a lot of traffic.
Out in Colombia offers customizable private and group tours and activities in Santa Marta, which can be included as part of multicity packages like its seven-night Medellin to Santa Marta tour (outincolombia.com/itineraries). These packages include domestic flights between the two cities, accommodations, some meals, and expert bilingual tour guides, as well as other amenities. For my visit, the company partnered with MagicTour Colombia (Calle 17 #3-69, Local 1. Tel. +57-5-421- 5820. magictourcolombia.com), a Santa Marta-based tour operator that offers local services.
