Our visit to Puru Biakiru, an Emberá settlement that sits on the banks of the Chagres River, was one of the most memorable experiences on our Panama trip. Kensington tours provided transportation and a knowledgeable bilingual guide, and the ride to get there, aboard a narrow wooden boat called a piragua was simply lovely. We enjoyed speaking with members of the community, admiring their craftwork (they’re known for beautifully designed baskets and beaded crafts) and sampling some of their traditional cuisine, including mouthwatering fresh fish and fried plantains.
Kensington does a great job of arranging personalized experiences with indigenous cultures. Since my husband and I speak Spanish, we were able to chat one-on-one with multiple community members, but even if you don’t, Kensington’s bilingual guides can facilitate conversations.
In addition to the Embera village visit, our two-day itinerary with Kensington Tours included scenic kayaking on the Chagres River, which is part of the Panama Canal system, and hiking in Soberania National Park, a dense, 55,000-acre park known for its lush vegetation and diverse wildlife.
The Panama Canal, a 51-mile waterway that links the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans, is a centerpiece of most first-time visitors’ itineraries, and while we’d seen it before, it never fails to impress. It’s always fun to watch giant ships inch through the locks at the Miraflores Visitor Center, and our tour guide provided additional insight beyond what was provided by the facility’s exhibits.
Cruise Ship in The Panama Canal (Photo by Artemu Kopylovk)
We wrapped up our Kensington Tours experience in a decidedly delicious way, with a culinary tour of Panama City. We savored our stops for tastings at the hip microbrewer La Rana Dorada, the cool rum bar Pedro Mandinga, the ceviche restaurant El Bote PTY and gourmet chocolate ship Oro Moreno. By the time we finished our traditional Panamanian dinner at the popular restaurant El Trapiche (which was also included in the tour), our diets were shot but our stomachs were happy.
Speaking of culinary experiences, Panama City is a rewarding destination for foodies. Traditional dishes include sancocho (stew usually made with chicken), ropa vieja (shredded beef), patacones (fried plantains) and carimañolas (yucca cakes).
In the trendy Casco Antiguo district, one of the hottest restaurants is Fonda Lo Que Hay, which serves modern takes on classic Panamanian dishes, and Lazotea, a hip rooftop restaurant with a cool menu and nice view. I also loved my meal at La Tapa del Coco, a casual eatery run by local celebrity Chef Isaac Villaverde, a champion of Afro-Panamanian cuisine. The codfish balls and jerk chicken were especially tasty.
GREAT HOTELS IN PANAMA CITY
Panama’s capital is home to an exceptional array of internationally branded hotels, including some of the world’s top luxury chains. I have a number of favorite hotels in Panama City, but on this visit I found a new one to add to my list: Hotel La Compañía, which debuted this year in the CascoAntiguo district.
La Compañía, which is the first Central American member of The Unbound Collection by Hyatt, is graced with countless historical touches and modern luxuries. Its 88 guest rooms are spread among three wings, including the French wing, which is set in a former Jesuit university that dates to 1739, and the American wing, which features visual cues from the early 20th century, to reflect the styles of the former department store in which it’s set.
We stayed in the gorgeous Spanish wing, in a one-bedroom suite with hardwood floors, exposed brick walls, a comfortable living area, and two sets of double doors that lead to a large private terrace overlooking the verdant courtyard. We also enjoyed the hotel’s public spaces, including the pristine rooftop pool, and well equipped gym and spa. For dining and rinking, we found our bliss at 1739, an elegant restaurant with a massive wine cellar, where we indulged in lobster bisque, lechon, fresh snapper and short ribs. We also enjoyed our time at Exilio, a bar with an expert cocktail menu, and El Santuario, which features a diverse menu that ranges from Panamanian breakfasts to dim sum and Indian brunches.
The F&F Tower (Photo by Mark Chesnut)
With such a wide array of hotel brands present in Panama City, it’s not difficult to match your stay to your mood and style. We spent two fabulous nights at the W Panama City, one of the city’s most mod accommodation options. The hotel exudes the W brand’s playfully stylish ambiance, with a cool lobby bar centered around a repurposed container and a buzzy outdoor rooftop pool. The large spa provided me with a relaxing one-hour massage treatment, and the relaxation continued in our appropriately named Spectacular Guest room, where floor-to-ceiling windows and cheery décor set the tone for a decidedly uplifting stay.
