SHAKEWELL (Oakland, California)
Chef Jen Biesty knows how to combine creativity and simplicity in winning ways, and her cuisine has all the hallmarks of an inventive gastronomic genius. Her burrata toast is a great example of the perfect melding of daring and straightforwardness, with the silky soft burrata made even richer by fresh peach preserves and given a kick from chili oil. With a touch of crunch from arugula, it’s as much a melding of texture as flavor, creating a depth in both that’s remarkable without calling attention to itself. So, too, with the poached eggs, which move into the realm of “slightly different” when you realize the sausage is chorizo and the “toast” they’re served on is actually falafel cakes. Chicken pairs with churros rather than the expected waffles, and either the chicken or the churros can be ordered by itself, each a delight, though their combination is winning. The whole restaurant, completely full and buzzing at Sunday brunch time, pays testament to this philosophy, with the earth tones lending a homey feel while the sculpted panels and jazzy bar give it a chic designer overlay. Best of all, the staff is amazingly friendly and knowledgeable, obviously proud of the culinary riches they’re offering. 3407 Lakeshore Ave., Oakland CA. Tel: 510- 251-0329. Brunch served Saturday and Sunday 10:30 A.M. to 2:30 P.M. www.shakewellbar.com
Burrata Toast at Shakewell
