Before venturing off to a ski destination, we opt for a morning drive to Niagara Falls. We heard on the news that the worldfamous waterfalls have frozen over—a rare occurrence. The hour drive is easy, as the main highway has already been thoroughly cleared. While the Falls seem to be flowing when we arrive, the otherworldly scene is worth the drive. Usually jam-packed with tourists, we are nearly alone. The water particles from the falls that usually cool off summertime visitors have frozen to the trees, chairs, binoculars, and benches, creating a scene out of the imagination of C.S. Lewis. Without the sailing of the summertime boats packed with tourists, the view is unobstructed—the way nature intended it to be (too bad we can’t get rid of all the buildings on the Canadian side).
Uris Library at Cornell University, Ithaca, New York
With the sun shining, road snacks in hand, we begin our drive to a ski resort known as “The Aspen of the East.” We happily cruise along the highway to Holiday Valley (6557 Holiday Valley Rd., Ellicottville. Tel: 716-699-2345. www.holidayvalley.com). During the two-hour drive, we get into a little bit of legal trouble with the Orchard Police Department. This is a warning for those who plan on driving in New York State: if a police car has someone pulled over along the right shoulder, you must move into the left lane. This is a new law in New York State called the “Move Over Law.” While I told the officer that I slowed down when I noticed him, he asked me if I knew about the law, to which I had to answer “No.” That didn’t help my case, and he gave me my first ticket ever. Otherwise, say goodbye to $215 and chalk up three points on your license—unless you can make it back up to Buffalo for a court case. The only notice of the law is at specific rest areas along the route, otherwise you wouldn’t know.
When we arrive at the ski resort, Jason attempts to snowboard for the first time. Thankfully we are given a coach who has been working at the massive resort since she was a kid. “Careful on these stairs,” she tells us as we’re all geared up and holding our boards. As soon as those words come out of her mouth, Jason falls flat on his butt—an amazing prelude to our day of snowboarding. Besides feeling much more out of shape now than I was in high school, I quickly remember the snowboard basics. Most of my time is spent smiling as Jason tries to break, turn, and twist down the miniscule hill. “I made it down the bunny hill,” he says after reaching the bottom and landing on his bottom. “No, that’s the bunny hill,” our instructor says, pointing to a substantially higher mountain.
Frank Lloyd Wright’s Martin House in Summer
It’s apparently Friendship Week with Canada, and the entire resort is buzzing with jolly winter enthusiasts. We pop in for a beer in the resort’s tavern and find that all of the brews on tap are local. “They make it right down the road, eh,” a man tells us through his beer-foam mustache. We come to learn that the Ellicottville Brewing Company (28 Monroe St., Ellicottville. Tel: 716-699-2537. www.ellicottvillebrewing.com) is the hottest place in town, and we should have made reservations, but we happily wait for our table at a massive marble bar where giant vats of beer dominate the corners of the room. We’re seated at an oak tree table and feel right at home with pints and scrumptious pub food like poutine hash browns, mammoth burgers, and delicious homemade cakes. The Aspeninspired restaurant also has a small store where we pick up an assortment of cases of beer to bring home, like the grapefruit lager.
Finger Lakes Cider House
At night, we check into one of the resort’s cabins. Our two-floor house is stunning, with a fireplace and pieces of Ellicottville memorabilia. The cabins are often rented for the season or rented out for long stays, but we are lucky to grab one for just a night.
The two-and-a-half-hour drive to New York’s Finger Lakes District is gorgeous. Our lifeline, Google Maps, takes us through winding roads. Snowdrifts move like phantoms across the isolated roads, sweeping from open fields to farmland. We carefully make our way back to the highway. We circle gorgeous Seneca Lake and the town of Seneca Falls replete with antique shops and colonial buildings. The lake is half-frozen, with boats covered in blue tarps like armor protecting them from the harsh winter. A sign above a bank reads that the outside temperature has reached -2 Fahrenheit, but people are still strolling along the sidewalk.
Before entering Ithaca proper, we stop in the small town of Trumansburg for a bite to eat at the family-run market Good to Go (21 E Main St. Tel: 607-387-8646. www.gtgtburg.com). “It’s all local stuff in here,” Nana, the owner, tells us as she points to the tofu on the menu. “The guy who makes it is awesome.” We’re happy that we came here and stuck up a conversation with Nana as she seems to be in the know and points us to many local artisans. Before leaving, she hands us a bag of locally made goodies that include maple syrup, soda, chocolate, and a piece of pottery. Next door, Jason grabs a drink at the lesbian-owned Felicia’s Atomic Brewhouse and Bakery (45 E Main St., Trumansburg. Tel: 607-209-4229. www.atomicbrewhouse.com) where we hear about how much has changed in the area. “Lots of people, particularly artists, are moving to the area. They can afford work spaces and they can get out of their heads and get inspired by nature again,” the girl working tells us.
We also make a quick stop for a cider tasting at The Finger Lakes Cider House (4017 Hickok Rd., Interlaken.Tel: 607-351-3313. www.fingerlakesciderhouse.com). Two massive dogs greet us, fur in full-on winter coat when we pull into a parking spot. We find out that we’re not the only ones who are in the mood for a drink on this freezing day. We’re amazed by the diversity of ciders available, from Champagne-like to super-hearty dark ciders. It gives us a new appreciation for the beverage.
