Discovering Malta

by Robert Adams
Opening View of Valelletta, Malta

With UNESCO World Heritage Sites, temples older than Egypt’s ancient pyramids, and a fascinating multi-cultural history, Malta may just be one of the most appealing locations for people who appreciate art, history, natural wonders, and international cuisine.

Robert Adams

Discovering hidden gems is one of the best parts about traveling. One of the most wonderful places we discovered in Malta was recommended by Charles and Ron. Ensconced behind the front doors of an unassuming building in the town of Naxxar was the elaborate and enchanting Palazzo Parisio (www.palazzoparisio.com). This beautiful palace with lavish interiors, refined architecture, and charming gardens, was built in the 19th century by Marquis Giuseppe Scicluna as his private residence.

Palazzo Parisio in Malta

Palazzo Parisio

It has been described as a miniature of Versailles, with ornate crown molding, elaborately decorated ceilings, murals, and rare objets d’art. The magnificent walled gardens of the Palazzo Parisio are among the finest in Malta, and the only privately owned gardens open to the public. From the twisting paths through the orange grove, to the flowering trees and unique shrubs, this is a lush landscape you will definitely want to take your time to explore. Admire the many exotic species of flora, including jacaranda and oleander, the borders of jewel-like cinerarias and fragrant freesias, the tall spiky agapanthus, over 65 species of hibiscus, a vast array of bougainvillea, and the profusion of cascading geraniums.

Here you will find an ideal spot to enjoy nature before lunch or afternoon tea at Luna, Palazzo Parisio’s daytime restaurant. If we lived in Malta, we would come here often to roam the gardens and enjoy drinks or a meal with friends. For anyone who wants to get married in Malta, the stunning Baroque designs of Palazzo Parisio, with its gilded ballroom and lush, romantic gardens, have made it one of Malta’s most sought after wedding venues. My husband and I looked at each other knowingly and said to each other, “this would be a great place to renew our vows someday.”

Encouraged by the Dalai Lama to “Once a year, go someplace you have never been before,” we were delighted to have chosen Malta. The historic places we visited gave us an insight into the diverse culture of this fascinating country, and the people we met shared their favorite places with us and made us feel at home everywhere we went.

During our final night in Malta, we joined a group of LGBTQ Maltese and visitors from around the world at Maori Bar (www.facebook.com/HMSMaori) in Valetta. As we approached, a giant duck blocked the streetside entrance and hissed at us as we tried to enter. Someone who works at the bar came out and told us to walk around to the other side of the building if we wanted to come in without being chased by their fowl friend.

This bohemian “dive bar,” with its stunning location tucked beneath historic Fort St. Elmo and overlooking the sea, is named after the HMS Maori that was shipwrecked just off shore in 1942. The night we were there, we met a dive instructor who gives underwater tours of the ship, a gay couple from the UK who spends every summer in Malta, local LGBTQ artists, musicians, poets, and the owner Simone Falzon.

Simone is a true free spirit who encourages others to express themselves and their creativity every day. Her bar is an integral part of contemporary Malta. It is a place that will inspire you and provide an opportunity to meet like-minded people. She often hosts LGBTQ events, as well as poetry readings, art exhibits, and more.

As we spoke, I felt as if we had always been friends. Amidst the packed bar, filled with laughter, conversation, and music, we talked directly into each other’s ears. We railed against conformity, advocated free love, and celebrated being together at that very moment in Malta.

When we travel, we often meet some of the most amazing people on the final day of our trip. Is this just a coincidence, or is it a destination’s way of telling us “we want you to come back”? Whatever the reason, we know we will return to Malta soon.

LGBTQ MALTA

Clayton Mercieca - Malta Pride Organizer

During a recent trip to Malta, we had the pleasure of meeting Clayton Mercieca, the Community Manager & Coordinator for a non-profit organization called Allied Rainbow Communities (www.gaymalta.com), the organizers of Malta Pride, which takes place in September. Besides Pride, they also organize regular events for the LGBTQ community, provide information about news and events through their media channels, and provide consultation to the private and public sector. Clayton and his husband Chris are also dads to Sebastian, who is almost 3 years old.

What annual LGBTQ events should visitors plan on taking part in when they visit Malta, and when do they take place?
Malta’s biggest LGBTQ event is definitely Malta Pride (www.gaymalta. com/maltapride), which takes place in the capital city of Valletta between the 1st and 2nd weekend of September. However, other events take place throughout the year. There’s a fun themed-party called Lollipop (www.facebook.com/lollipopnight) which happens monthly, the Easter Eve Party and the Bordello Foam Party organized by S2S Events (www.facebook.com/s2sevents), and the Live Final Eurovision Screening Party organized by ARC, which happens during May. Other one-off international events take place in collaboration with the team at Michelangelo Gay Bar. A comprehensive list of events are uploaded on our website www.gaymalta.com.

What LGBTQ groups or organizations are there in Malta that welcome visitors to their events, and when do they take place?
ARC (www.gaymalta.com), hosts frequent meet-ups on a monthly basis, which are more directed for folks interested in socializing and networking, rather than clubbing. The meet-ups are usually held in LGBTQ-friendly bars in Valletta. We also host women-led parties such as karaoke and ladies-only club nights. Other events are also held by ARC such as country walks, film nights, and more.

Lollipop (www.facebook.com/lollipopnight) is a super-inclusive, fun, and themed LGBTQ club night that takes place once a month.

LGBTQ Malta

Photo: Mavo

The Malta LGBTQ Rights Movement (www.maltagayrights.org) hosts monthly coffee meet-ups at their offices in Mosta and sometimes games for people who like participating in sports.

For those who are spiritual and would like to meet like-minded individuals, there’s an LGBTQ faith based group called Drachma (www.maltacvs.org/voluntary/drachma), which meets twice a month.

S2S Events (www.facebook.com/s2sevents), produces between 4 to 6 parties each year around the time of Easter, and in July, August, September, November, and December.

LGBTI+Gozo (www.lgbtigozo.com), is based on the island of Gozo, and hosts a number of events throughout the year.

Michelangelo (www.facebook.com/michelangeloclublounge), a Gay Bar, in Paceville is open most days of the week and holds themed nights every weekend. All events are posted on www.gaymalta.com

What LGBTQ owned bars, restaurants, hotels, or shops should people visit when coming to Malta?
Although Malta has just one official gay bar, Michelangelo (www.facebook.com/michelangeloclublounge), most businesses are gay-friendly. As an organization, we advocate for better staff training in diversity for the hospitality industry and other fields to ensure everyone is welcomed and accepted. In addition, the Government is launching the #ALLWelcome campaign, where various businesses will don a rainbow colored sticker showing they are LGBTQ friendly.

A few of the B&Bs owned by LGBTQ folks in Mlata are: Marina View Apartment (www.airbnb.com/rooms/20766527), Grand Harbour Vista (www.airbnb.com/rooms/plus/12579824), Dar Tal-Kaptan Boutique Mason (www.dartalkaptan.com/dar-tal-kaptan) in Gozo, and Olive House (olivehousezebbug.business.site) in Zebbug.

Other LGBTQ Friendly hotels that support Malta Pride are: The Phoenicia Hotel (www.phoeniciamalta.com), La Falconeria Hotel (www.lafalconeria.com), and The Waterfront Hotel (www.waterfronthotelmalta.com). ARC is also building a Pink Directory (www.gaymalta.com/pinkdirectory) of LGBTQ owned and friendly businesses.

Gay Malta

Photo: AJR Photo

What are some of your favorite places to go for cocktails & dinner?
Me, my husband, and our friends usually love hanging out in Valletta for cocktails and dinner. I can never get enough of the capital city. It has a charm to it that is found in very few other cities. We also love hanging out in smaller towns like Mdina, Rabat, and the Three Cities.

What is the best time of year to visit Malta and why?
I would say May – September are the best months if you’re looking to spend most days by the beach, dining out, clubbing, and celebrating Pride. Spring and autumn are the best to relax, unwind and visit cultural sites.

What are the best places to truly enjoy the wonderful, natural beauty of Malta? The northwest part of the island is where the best beaches are, including Golden Bay, Ghajn Tuffieha Bay, and Mellieha Bay. This area of Malta also has a great natural reserve called Majjistral Nature & History Park (mt.majjistral.org), where people can roam freely and appreciate nature. Gozo (www.visitmalta.com/en/islandof- gozo) is a beautiful, smaller island with amazing beaches and great spots to enjoy nature.

What cultural attractions are a must see for LGBTQ visitors?
The capital city of Valletta (www.visitmalta.com/en/valletta) is like a giant museum filled with architectural baroque beauty. In Valletta, one can find a number of museums that LGBTQ visitors will certainly enjoy, including MUZA, The National Museum of Archeology (www.muza.heritagemalta.org), and Casa Rocca Piccola (www.casaroccapiccola.com). Other must-visits include Mdina (www.visitmalta.com/en/mdina-and-rabat), a beautiful medieval town that has a number of museums and noble houses; and also the Three Cities (www.visitmalta.com/en/the-three-cities), which many LGBTQ expats have made their home.

A friend is coming to Malta for the first time, please describe the perfect weekend.
On Friday I would take them to Valletta for the day and start with breakfast at one of the boutique hotels, and a visit to the Barrakka Gardens. Then we’d take a stroll down Republic Street and visit one of the museums. Afterwards, we would take the ferry to the Three Cities, walk around or rent one an electric car to explore the area, and have a late lunch or an early dinner by the Senglea or Birgu waterfront. I would then take them to Dingli Cliffs to watch the sun set over the hills with breathtaking views.

Tritons’ Fountain, Valletta, Malta

Tritons’ Fountain, Valletta
Photo: Robert Adams

On Saturday, we would go to Gozo and stop to see Popeye’s Village along the way to the harbor. Then I would take them to Comino by private boat for a swim at the Blue Lagoon. After, we’d head back to to Gozo to visit the Citadella in Victoria, The Tal- Mixta Cave in Nadur, and a lunch break in Ramla il-Hamra Bay to enjoy the Gozitan Pizza called Ftira Ghawdxija. Afterwards, we would visit Dwejra, a popular Game of Thrones site, and then back to Malta to spend the evening in Mdina and dine there.

On Sunday, I would take them to the fishing village Marsaxlokk, visit the prehistoric cave of Ghar Dalam, and take a boat ride around the Blue Grotto in Zurrieq before dropping them off at the Airport close by.

Hidden Gems: What are some of your favorite places that are not part of the usual tourist itinerary?
Fomm ir-Rih Bay is definitely a beautiful hidden and hard to reach beach in Bahrija (northwest of Malta), as well as Selmun Bay. LMtahleb (North West) is also a very beautiful, hard to reach hamlet with amazing views and surroundings. Il-Maqluba in Zurrieq is a natural wonder (google map it and you’ll understand why). Some core inland towns like B’Kara, Hamrun, Qormi & Zebbug also deserve some attention due to their historical architecture, although they’re often overlooked by those who don’t appreciate history.

 

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