Iceland’s progressive spirit appears to run as deep as its legendary geothermal waters.
This island nation, after all, became the first country to elect an openly LGBTQ+ head of government (Jóhanna Sigurðardóttir in 2009). It was also the ninth nation globally to legalize same-sex marriage (in 2010) and has since become a beacon for LGBTQ+ rights in Europe.
Even though I was aware of Iceland’s progressive stance as well as its vast natural beauty, I must admit that I was surprised during my recent first-ever visit. Iceland wasn’t quite what I expected, and I mean that in the best possible way. The country seamlessly blends sophisticated urban culture with small-town warmth, and dramatic natural wonders with cozy human connections, all wrapped in a welcoming and inclusive atmosphere.
Learning about LGBTQ+ travel in Iceland is easy. Visit Iceland (Tel. +3- 54-511-4000. visiticeland.com), the destination’s tourism organization, maintains a robust LGBTQ+ travel page (visiticeland.com/article/lgbt-iceland), and the local organizations and businesses are also excellent resources, especially during pride, which takes place in August every year.
It was clear that I was bound for a welcoming place as soon as I boarded my Icelandair flight from New York City. During pride month, many of the carrier’s flight attendants don rainbow scarves, and as my flight descended toward Keflavík International Airport (the main international airport serving Reykjavik), the flight attendant’s voice crackled over the intercom with a telling announcement: “Dear passengers,” she said, eschewing the usual ladies and gentlemen for a more gender-neutral term. It was yet another clue that this Nordic nation takes inclusion seriously, right down to the smallest details.
Even before I’d cleared customs, pride flags and rainbow balloon displays provided boldly welcoming visuals at the airport, setting the tone for a destination that celebrates diversity year-round.
The Retreat Lobby View (Photo by Blue Lagoon)
Prior to the Pride events, however, it was time to relax and rejuvenate, so I’d be better prepared for all the festivities. I checked into The Retreat at Blue Lagoon (bluelagoon.com/accommodation/retreat-hotel), a dramatically beautiful hotel with brutalist touches that’s set against the otherworldly backdrop of volcanic rocks and distant, towering mountains. The massive spa at Blue Lagoon, which is renowned for its geothermal seawater pools and variety of experiences, attracts lots of visitors, and staying at the Retreat is the best way to truly indulge since hotel guests enjoy greater access, as well as extras like onsite dining and morning yoga. I signed up for a “float therapy” session in the mineral-rich waters, guided by a therapist who led me on a massage-enhanced relaxation session in the water.
By the time I checked out the next day, I was ready for some excitement. Reykjavik Pride (Tel. +3-54-790-4141. hinsegindagar.is/en/) was about to kick off.
Experiencing the Pleasures of Reykjavik Pride Reykjavík Pride is not just an event, it’s an exuberant, week-long celebration of LGBTQ+ rights, diversity, and life itself, enhanced by Iceland’s uniquely welcoming spirit. The festival offers something for all types of visitors, including glittering drag shows, intimate cocktail parties, high-profile political speeches, artistic photography exhibits, and a spirited queer sunset cruise. The climax, of course, is a vibrant parade and festival that draws people from around the globe.
One of my favorite aspects of Reykjavík Pride is its warm, community focused vibe. Unlike the sprawling, chaotic energy of mega-events in cities like New York or London, this pride celebration feels manageable, intimate, and relaxing. It’s perfect for those who enjoy the positivity of pride without the annoyances of massive crowds.
Another cool quality of Reykjavík Pride is how easy it is to meet new friends. The city’s compact size naturally encourages connection, so if you strike up a conversation with someone at an event, you’re quite likely to bump into them again at a bar, during a stroll, at a restaurant, or at another one of the week’s many get-togethers.
Hallgrímskirkja and the Inclusive Pride Flag (Photo by DepartureLevel.com)
In addition, the city’s prideful atmosphere isn’t limited to the parade route or nightlife. Displays of LGBTQ+ solidarity ripple through the city, from shop windows decked out in rainbow flags to unexpected venues like Hallgrímskirkja (Tel. +3-54-510-1000. hallgrimskirkja.is/en), the towering Evangelical-Lutheran church that dominates Reykjavík’s sky line. Inside, I discovered a touching pride exhibit featuring thought-provoking text and multiple pride flags. In addition, you should make time to ascend the church’s tower for breathtaking views of the city. Hallgrímskirkja is also home to Iceland’s largest pipe organ, and I was lucky enough to come upon two separate free organ recitals.
Reykjavik Pride kicked off with a well-attended opening ceremony at a business complex called the Gróska Innovation Center (Bjargargata 1. Tel. +3-54-767-9700. groska.is/en), where speeches and live entertainment shared the stage. I also found the additional daytime opening ceremony to be a great photo opportunity, as local politicians and community members painted rain bow colors on the pavement in front of a community center.
If you’re a drag fan, you won’t want to miss Drag Me to Pride (tix.is/en/event/17647/drag-me-to-pride), a dazzling drag show that showcases an array of talented performers. While this year’s performers hadn’t been announced as of press time, last year’s show included Jujubee (a star of RuPaul’s Drag Race), so you can expect a similar level of talent and energy for 2025. This year, the event is scheduled for August 9, and tickets are likely to sell out long before pride week, so advance planning is a must.
Reykjavik Pride’s grand finale day begins with a vibrant parade in the heart of the city. It’s a joyous, colorful celebration of love and identity, attracting participants from all walks of life. It begins near the Hallgrímskirkja church and ends in Hljómskálagarðurinn park, where an outdoor concert and closing ceremony keep the crowds engaged.
Celebrating Reykjavik Pride: Halla Tomasdottir, president of Iceland (middle) with Helga Haraldsdottir, president of Reykjavik Pride (right) and Bjarndis Tomasdottir chair of the National Queer Organization (left). Photo by Sigga Ella
When I attended, Iceland’s President Halla Tómasdóttir delivered a rousing speech, her words inspiring thunderous applause: “We stand here together today in order to make the clear point that we intend to defend the right of every one of us to be exactly who we are,” she said. “And we will never retreat. Never. I rarely feel more pride in our nation than when I am abroad, and I tell the story of our queer community, that extraordinary journey which was undertaken in face of persistent resistance.”
The president, who has been in office since 2024, continued her queer affirming discourse by citing how society as a whole benefits from the efforts of the LGBTQ+ community. “It is my sincere belief that in this struggle we need to adopt the methods of the queer community in Iceland, to opt for moderation in a harsh world; to celebrate our differences,” she said. “In the end, it is a question of mindset. Spotting what unites us, not what may divide us.” “I shall be supportive of all queer people,” she added. “And I especially want to embrace the trans community in this context.” It was a striking demonstration of Iceland’s accepting attitude toward diversity.
The next Reykjavik Pride (hinsegindagar.is/en) takes place August 6-11, 2025, and you can find more information about the celebrations on the tourist office website: inspiredbyiceland.com/events/reykjavik-pride-2025.
LGBTQ+ Travel Experiences in Reykjavik
Fans of LGBTQ+ events will be happy to learn that pride isn’t the city’s only annual tradition. RVKBear (reykjavikbear.is), which takes place next on August 28-31, 2025, is bear-oriented event with activities including nature tours, geothermal lagoon bathing, nightly parties, and other activities.
Even if you can’t make it for a big event, the city’s queer-friendly vibe is visible no matter when you visit, especially on Skolavordustigur Street, which is also known as Rainbow Street, thanks to the giant pride stripes that run down its center, year round. This much-photographed site is just one of several interesting shopping streets in downtown Reykjavik, Iceland.
The Rainbow Street in Iceland (Photo by Neurobit)
Iceland’s progressive spirit runs as deep as its geothermal waters. It became the first country to elect an openly LGBTQ+ head of government, the ninth nation globally to legalize same-sex marriage, and it is now a beacon for LGBTQ+ rights in Europe.
Queer nightlife in Reykjavik is also a draw throughout the year, although it’s on a much smaller scale than larger European capital cities (Reykjavik is home to less than 150,000 residents, after all). I found its relaxed pace delightful, and I also appreciated that the manageable size of downtown Reykjavik (not to mention its safety) made it easy to walk to shops, restaurants, and bars from the multiple hotels where I stayed.
Two of the city’s prime LGBTQ+ nightspots, in fact, are conveniently located in one colorfully painted building in the heart of downtown. 22 (Laugavegur 22. 22bar.is) is a longstanding favorite. It’s a corner bar with comfy seating and a menu that includes drinks and light meals. We found it to be a perfect place for after-dinner drinks, and it was no surprise that we ran into people we had met at the pride events.
Kiki Queer Bar (Photo by DepartureLevel.com)
If you’re in the mood for dancing after a drink or two at 22, you won’t have to travel far. Head outside, around the corner, and upstairs to Kiki Queer Bar (Laugavegur 22. kiki.is), a nightclub that’s located in the same building. This small-but-lively dance club is especially fun on weekends and during pride week, with friendly patrons and great dance music.
I asked Gunnlaugur Bragi, former president of Reykjavik Pride and a tourism specialist who has worked with the nation’s tourism office on the LGBTQ+ segment, about Iceland’s increasingly strong appeal among LGBTQ+ travelers. He noted a variety of factors, including air connectivity, stunning natural beauty, excellent hotels, and fun pride celebrations. “Iceland is a very safe destination,” he said. “And in the past few years and decades, Iceland has been very progressive when it comes to increased equal rights and social acceptance. Icelanders in general are kind of ‘live and let live.’”
Iceland’s Fascinating History
The nation’s modern-day progress in terms of LGBTQ+ rights is just one chapter in its fascinating history. Irish monks known as Papar briefly settled on the island centuries ago, followed by Norse Vikings who arrived in the 9th century; that same group eventually created the first permanent settlement. The first permanent settler, Ingólfr Arnarson, established what would become Reykjavík in 874 CE. Norse chieftains, Celtic slaves, and free people were among the first to live in Iceland, and by 930 they launched what is described as the world’s first parliament, the Albingi. That gives Iceland bragging rights as one of the world’s oldest democracies.
During the medieval period, Iceland produced outstanding literature, most notably the legendary sagas, which are prose stories that chronicle voyages, adventures, feuds, and other dramatic moments in Icelandic history. During this time, residents faced a variety of challenges, including volcanic eruptions, harsh winters, and political dominance by Norway and later Denmark. Among the most difficult times came after the Laki volcanic eruption in the 1780s, which resulted in a famine during which a quarter of the population perished. This period was known as the “Mist Hardships.”
Fast forward, and Iceland’s modern transformation has been impressive. After gaining independence from Denmark in 1944, this nation of just over 360,000 people has become one of the world’s most progressive societies. The 2008 financial crisis may have briefly rocked Iceland’s economy, but the nation has carved a role as a global leader in areas including renewable energy, gender equality, and LGBTQ+ rights.
Tours and Attractions in Iceland
One of the many pluses of visiting Iceland during Reykjavik Pride is that there are more queer-led tours, and that makes it even easier to immerse yourself in the celebratory ambiance and meet like-minded locals and visitors.
We used the services of Pink Iceland (Skólavörðustígur 16. Tel. +3-54- 562-1919. pinkiceland.is/tours), a company that offers private, customizable guided tours as well as self-drive itineraries (their affiliated company, Work from Iceland, can also help if you’re interested in working remotely from Iceland for a few months).
For first-time visitors to Iceland like me, the Golden Circle tour provides an ideal introduction to some of the most legendary natural wonders near Reykjavik. This tourism route stops at unique sites including Thingvellir National Park, which is home to dramatic gorges, the Geysir geothermal area, where geysers regularly erupt, and the Gullfoss waterfall, where the thundering waters are breathtaking.
Rainbow over Gullfoss Waterfall (Photo by Hugo Valle)
Pink Iceland’s Golden Circle tour, scheduled to coincide with Reykjavik Pride, was filled with LGBTQ+ folks from around the globe, and the friendly and festive mood only increased when we ended our tour with lunch at the Frioheimar Organic Tomato Farm (Reykholti, Bláskógabyggð 806 Selfoss. Tel. +3-54-486-8894. fridheimar.is/en), a farm and restaurant with a menu that showcases their own fresh tomatoes, complemented, only during pride, by a lively drag performance. Hannes Sasi Pálsson, a co-founder of Pink Iceland, also led my small group on an enjoyable and informative queer history walking tour of Reykjavik, which provided more depth to my understanding of the nation’s progress.
Hannes Sasi Pálsson,
Co-Founder of Pink Iceland (Photo by DepartureLevel.com)
The most breathtaking experience during my trip was a sky-high excursion with Nordurflug Helicopter Tours (Tel. +3-54-562-2500. helicopter.is), which operates from the smaller, more convenient domestic airport, close to downtown Reykjavik. The stunning, bird’s-eye views of the city, the bay, and the nearby mountains, where we stopped for champagne and hors d’oeuvres, was simply unforgettable. The company offers a variety of additional helicopter tours to other parts of the island, as well.
Even if you don’t want to fly, you can still get a sky-high view of Iceland at FlyOver Iceland (Fiskislóð 43. Tel. +3-54-527-6700. flyovericeland.com), a high-tech theater experience that takes visitors “soaring” over some of the nation’s most legendary and beautiful sites, all while seated comfortably in a theater with a giant screen. I found it to be exciting and worthwhile, especially since it allowed me to see several locations around Iceland that I wasn’t going to see in person.
To learn more about Iceland’s history, meanwhile, head to the National Museum of Iceland (Suðurgata 41. Tel. +3-54-530-2200. thjodminjasafn.is/english), which hosts permanent and temporary exhibitions that document Viking to modern times.
Icelandic Phallological Museum (Photo by DepartureLevel.com)
On a very different note, I also found the Icelandic Phallological Museum (Reykjastræti 4. Tel. +3-54-561-6663. phallus.is) to be well worth a visit for anyone even remotely curious about phallic themes. Billed as “the world’s only genuine penis museum,” it houses surprisingly educational exhibits about the organ’s importance for humans as well as other animals. There’s also a large gift shop and even a café where you can dig into penis shaped treats.
For cultural events, concerts, and exhibitions throughout the year, check the schedule at HARPA (Austurbakka 2. Tel. +3-54-528-5000. harpa.is/en), which is set in a stunningly modern building and is the home to the Iceland Symphony Orchestra, the Icelandic Opera, and the Reykjavik Big Band.
Savoring the Flavors of Reykjavik
Iceland‘s culinary scene was yet another wonderful surprise for me as a first-time visitor. Forget everything you’ve heard about fermented shark (though yes, it’s still available for the adventurous), this Nordic nation is a sophisticated foodie destination that honors its traditional ingredients while embracing international influences. I was delighted to find that fresh seafood and locally raised lamb are key components for a lot of modern Icelandic cuisine, and I found both consistently delicious.
At Matur & Drykkur (Grandagarður 2, Reykjavík. Tel. +3-54-571- 8877. en.maturogdrykkur.is), a popular upscale restaurant housed in a former salt fish factory, the seasonal six-course tasting menu showcases Icelandic ingredients in mouthwateringly creative ways. The vintage décor and harbor location add to the authenticity of the experience, making it one of my most memorable meals in Reykjavík.
If you’re seeking a contemporary take on Icelandic/Asian fusion cuisine, Fish Mrkt (Aðalstræti 12. Tel. +3-54-578-8877. fiskmarkadurinn.is/en) offers an innovative fusion menu of local ingredients with Asian influences. I loved their tempura and sashimi dishes, which prove that Iceland’s cuisine can easily compete against any destination.
The recently relocated Skal (Njálsgata 1. Tel. +3-54 -565-6515. skalrvk.com) has also made waves with its expert blend of Icelandic and international flavors, offering a casual but equally delicious dining experience.
I also found the city’s lunch scene to be a tasty time of day. Some of my favorite meals happened at midday, as a matter of fact. Jómfrúin (Lækjar gata 4, Reykjavík. Tel. +3-54-551-0 100. jomfruin.is/en/), for example, introduced me to the art of Danish open-faced sandwiches, including their famous “hangover cure” roast beef sandwich (trust me, it’s worth trying even if you’re feeling fine).
For people-watching, grab an outdoor table at Fjallkonan (Haf narstræti 1-3. Tel. +3-54-555-0950. fjallkona.is/en/fjallkonan-english) and order their Icelandic platter that includes a sampling of local delicacies including puffin with crowberry gel and lamb tartare. And if your friends can’t agree on what to eat, the Pósthús Food Hall & Bar (Pósthússtræti 3-5. posthusfoodhall.is/en) offers everything from sushi to Indian cuisine, all under one roof.
Great Hotels in Reykjavik
After checking out the fabulous The Retreat at Blue Lagoon, which is located outside of the capital city, I soon discovered that the city of Reykjavik is also home to a variety of noteworthy hotels, each of which with its own unique style.
For those who prefer to be in the heart of the action, the Sand Hotel by Keahotels (Laugavegur 34. Tel. +3-54-519-8090. keahotels.is/sand-hotel) sits right on one of the city’s main pedestrian thoroughfares. With 78 rooms and a location just steps from Reykjavík’s queer nightlife, it’s an ideal base for pride celebrations and LGBTQ+ travelers, year round. I enjoyed staying there and taking strolls to check out the local shopping and dining scene.
I especially loved the style of The Exeter (Tryggvagata 12. Tel. +3-54-519-8000. exeterhotel.is), a hotel that brings industrial-chic style to the waterfront. I was taken by the property’s hip, dark interiors, metal accents, and thoughtful touches, including a coupon for a free donut from the onsite bakery. The free breakfast and sauna also add to this hotel’s appeal.
For luxury seekers, the stylish Reykjavík EDITION (Austurbakki 2. Tel. +3-54-582-0000. editionhotels.com/reykjavik) stands alone as Reykjavik’s only five-star property. During pride, its sophisticated spaces come alive with special events. I caught both a pride cocktail party at the stunning Tolt bar and a fabulous drag brunch at Tides restaurant. The seventh-floor restaurant, The Roof, offers some of the best views in town.
History buffs might prefer the Art Deco splendor of Hotel Borg by Keahotels (Pósthússtræti 11. Tel. +3-54-551-1440. keahotels.is/hotel-borg), a 1930s gem that was one of Reykjavík’s first luxury hotels.
Another great choice for accommodations is the Canopy by Hilton Reykjavik City Centre (Smiðjustígur 4, 101 Reykjavík. Tel. +354 528 7000. hilton.com), which brings contemporary flair to the city center. Its restaurant, Geiri Smart, serves up adventurous Icelandic cuisine (including the infamous fermented shark) in an attractive setting with interesting modern art touches.
Over the course of just a few days, Reykjavik revealed itself as a fascinating and welcoming place, where visitors can explore otherworldly landscapes, indulge in luxury accommodations, and enjoy the nation’s distinct culture as well as its progressive, welcoming environment. It’s a multifaceted nation that I hope to visit again soon.
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